Warrior193

As mentioned a couple of replies ago, check the permissible towing weight on the B pillar plate.

Hello, welcome to the forum. It sounds as if you enjoy your driving when you're not commuting - provided you're not too heavy with the right foot, and the insurance premium isn't prohibitive, I'd suggest a manual Vrs.

It will help if you supply engine size and code - all we know at the moment is diesel and manual gears. Does the engine idle smoothly and at correct speed in neutral?

What engine is fitted to the 2015 Citigo?

It is always advisable to carry out an adaptation when the battery is replaced in these micro-hybrids - if for no other reason than to clear any recorded battery faults that may be limiting charge rate from alternator. Adaptation is definitely required if new battery is different chemistry type (AGM/EFB) or is a different capacity (AHrs)

The EML lighting up could very likely be something other than a failing battery, any DTC recorded needs to be read to determine what might be triggering it. Also suggest getting the battery tested.

EML lit will definitely inhibit auto stop-start. You will need to read any DTCs recorded. The fault description for stop-start inhibition when battery SOC is low is usually 'Load too high'

Do you suspect timing chain failure?

I'm not sure that's a 'pixel error' - I believe it's the display indicating the possible source of the error, similar to the wheels being highlighted (except in red) when the TPMS flags pressure loss.

Depending on the width of the base of the triangle, I'd guess it's a guide, like the normal reversing tramlines - keep the trailer within the triangle while reversing.

I have seen posts on the forum where non-genuine replacement screens have been fitted - some with issues! I'd think that would need to be discussed with insurance/fitting companies. Check the small print of the policy. Any windscreen camera will definitely require recalibration.

Those figures don't look too bad but you could could consider giving the battery a bit of a treat with a full charge.

Hello Henry, have you confirmed function of new option on reversing camera yet?

Try switching it on late on a cool night, then feel if the screen changes temperature compared to side glass.

Re the flywheel teeth, they do take a bit of a hammering from the Bendix starter pinion, not usually too much of a problem if only the leading edge. Don't forget to add the mandatory small coil of fencing wire to the spares kit 😄

Taking a look at OPs profile, has both Mk2 & Mk3 - the voltages quoted would be as expected for Mk3 (with stop-start) but I would be checking voltage regulation if on mk2 and a constant figure. I'd expect to see a maximum constant charge figure of 13.8 VDC and a floating charge 13.2 VDC on a standard L-A battery and alternator.

As this is posted in Mk2 section, therefor assumed not to have smart alternator and EFB/AGM battery, I'd think that the voltage quoted to be a little high - particularly if constant. Off for a little refresher course on old battery tech.

Aperture should receive a flag from my post. Take a look at his project post.

You could try messaging @ApertureS for advice on what is possible retrofit wise.

Of more than a little concern that OPs garage , unless misreported, is that they do not know correct valve drive of engine.

👍of course, I forgot about the TDI setup.

What were the symptoms of the recent break down?

Doesn't the serpentine belt also drive the water pump and alternator? There would be no issue in removing the belt to manually check the AC compressor, but obviously, the other ancillaries would be disabled if you were to actually run the engine.

Yes - assuming your new battery is also AGM (Fleece) just change the A/hr setting to the new battery capacity and change the last digit of the existing, recorded battery serial number.

I should have mentioned in my post above - AGM should be entered as 'Fleece' in VAG parlance.