Warrior193

I'd suggest having the battery tested after being charged - failing batteries can have a nasty habit of suddenly letting you down - the law of Sod will often dictate that failure to be in the most inconvenient place!

Pricing is other way round - AGM is more expensive than EFB - AGM should have superior performance and life.

Unfortunately, a stud conversion kit won't help OP in this particular case as the stud still requires a viable thread in the hub.

In which case it is possible that your calliper is not sliding freely on the rods - putting most of the braking effort onto one side of the disc and distorting it.

I think there may be references on the forum when members have overridden the sensor to allow control modules enter sleep mode while the hood is open. I haven't had occasion (yet) to get access to check that sensor - I bet that's put the hex on mine now!

There is a hood position sensor or switch located on or near the lower (body) latch. Do your windscreen wipers still work?

Difficult to check, but check that both inner and outer pistons are free to move in the caliper.

They make the job so much easier - a pair spaced one stud apart is best if the wheel has a considerable amount of offset.

Unfortunately, what almost certainly happened was the 1st bolt cross-threaded when you used the impact wrench on it and I'm not sure I'd trust a helicoil repair on the damaged thread - probably the best fix would be to replace the damaged hub. Also get yourself a pair of the tyre positioning pins for future use.

Try gently pushing the flap while pressing the unlock button - it's not uncommon for the flap lock servo to get a little sticky.

A simpler fix would be to affix a small picket to offside rear of trailer.

As far as I know, no radio code required - the infotainment system is locked to the vehicle monitoring system provided it remains with the vehicle to which it was installed.

12 deg.C difference might not be especially significant, but still worth checking.

I'm not sure if the Mk2 is the same as the Mk3 - but the clutch and brakes may share the same master cylinder, which would explain your issue. On the Mk3, the clutch fluid take-off is higher than the brake, which could introduce air into the clutch cylinder if the level was permitted to drop too low while bleeding the brakes.

Hello, welcome to the forum. I'd suggest having the rear hatch issue addressed first - I suspect the vehicle is detecting that the rear hatch is remaining open - do the trunk lights stay on?

To check if the brakes are binding, try gently placing your hand on each of the wheel hubs after a reasonable run - any significant difference in temperature in a hub would indicate that brake may not be releasing fully.

There will be no adverse implications should you decide to have future servicing work carried out by an independent garage - make sure they possess the correct tools, skills and knowledge and they have access to VAG systems to maintain the electronic service records. There are a number of ex VAG mechanics outside the stealer network.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The Stop/start error is normal - SS is disabled if the MIL (check engine) indicator is activated. Hope you find a resolution soon for your initial fault.

@BACUPIAN please switch off your Caps lock - it's considered to be angry shouting - unless you're trump, in which case it's demented.

Take a look at my post for SWMBOs Fabia 1.0TSI 110 last year.

In that circumstance, I'd say you have a good chance of a warranty claim - but it will almost certainly require an independent engineers inspection and report. Where is the vehicle now?

But where should those oil icons appear? If this is what VAG call an advance, I cannot say I'm a fan - it seems nonsensical to me that systems like TPMS, EPC and Traction control go through a visible self check to confirm they are operational before start - while the oil monitoring system does not! How reliable is a critical engine system that never shows any indication during initial start-up checks!

Do you mean the Maxi Dot MFD?

1 litre petrol will be TSI in the Octavia 3. It could be that the brake pad anti-squeal shims are sticky - not really an issue apart from being annoying. Do you get any apparent false alarms from the tyre pressure monitoring system (TPMS)?

2015 Octavia 3 Kombi 1.4TSI 150, CZDA. MY16. For no particular reason I started wondering why Skoda (and presumably rest of VAG) do not have a self-check for the oil pressure during ignition switch on. I checked my instrument cluster and there does not actually appear to be a dedicated indicator (Oil can icon) anywhere in the cluster! Clockwise from around 7o'clock, my cluster has these icons at switch on - Airbag (amber) Seatbelt (red) TPMS (amber) Steering PAS (red) EPC (amber) MIL 'check engine' (amber) Traction control (amber) ABS (amber) Brakes (red) Traction control off (amber) There appear to be no gaps in the above icons for an oil pressure one - three questions - Should there be an 'oil can' icon somewhere in the cluster? Should it light up during the instrument self check? If there isn't a dedicated icon for the oil pressure system, which indicator will light up if oil pressure is lost - is it the MIL?