Warrior193

Hello, welcome to the forum. Is this TSI or TDI? For the oil warning, I'd first test what the actual pressure is by plumbing-in a pressure gauge to confirm that oil pressure is ok - if that's within specs, I'd suspect the pressure sensor. For the warm starting issue, I'd check the crank and camshaft position sensors.

The grounds that DVSA gave me for their findings was that there was no ignition source present at the time of my incident! The starter motor has commutator, brush gear and a solenoid with switch contacts, all of which can produce sparking. No actual ignition source is necessary if the vehicle is in motion if/when this fuel rail failure occurs - autoignition temperature of petrol is around 250-280 deg. C, diesel is lower at 210 deg. C - Guess the name of at least two items in engine bay that run temperatures considerably higher than that.

Not sure of full title for the North America report - but it did result in a vehicle recall over there - that was 24Gi. The reply I got from DVSA did state that they had previously investigated a number of these fuel rail faults with the 'assistance of the manufacturer'

I'll see if I can recover the US fault report number.

I reported my failure to DVSA - they replied that they did not regard this failure incident to constitute a fire risk! I had fairly high quantity of fuel streaming down the front of the engine.

I gather the double lock press disables the deadlocks - this is a precaution against passengers being unable to exit vehicle while it is locked (Safelock), so it makes sense that the alarm is disabled at the same time.

I did not see any reference in any of @Pal62v s post to say that the reported faulty unit had been replaced - just that the car was picked up and was now at the airport, I read it that the work had not been completed yet.

Personally, I'd suggest getting a second opinion from a brake specialist.

Probably not - although there is a message flashed up on my Octavia's screen if the throttle is touched while starting engine.

@harpix42 What was RAC technicians finding?

Check the pollen filter and replace if necessary. Not uncommon for this service item to be missed.

A 2018 1.5 TSI will be Euro 6.

For the mirror USB, I fear that they will say either 'not possible' - or will quote a ridiculously high price. Try one of the specialist retro-fitters.

Definitely fixable - if it's what I believe, excluding recovery, investigation and repair cost me £217.20 at an independent garage in June last year.

As per my reply to your other post, stop any further attempts to start engine. It is highly likely that the fuel rail bolts have failed or loosened! Hopefully you have home recovery as it will probably be necessary to recover to garage.

If fuel is dripping from engine, stop immediately - your car will probably require recovery.

Important, check front of engine while being cranked-over - first making sure there's no smoking nearby! If there is fuel dripping down front of engine, you could be yet another victim of the fuel rail bolt failure issue.

I don't know for the Mk4 - but on the Mk3 I believe it's a double press of the lock button, you could try that.

What does your tyre plate state for that size? Suggest you could try pressures of 2.6bar front, with rears about 0.2bar higher - that would be approx. 0.2bar increase on the fronts from what you have now.

What size wheels and tyres do you have?

What tyre pressures are you running? Especially the fronts.

In that case, it would probably make a pretty decent street cam and would probably not lose anything at the bottom end of rev band - I was unable to find any significant data online for that cam.

A lot depends whether that 280/280 is a race or rally cam - If race, it will be be very unhappy at low revs and will be 'lumpy' at idle (if it will idle at all below 1500rpm) to say the least!

I'd suggest just topping up with correct coolant and monitoring the level closely. Very likely it's been low for quite a while and might not actually be leaking. Really a basic precaution to check engine fluid levels at least weekly.

The various vehicle control modules draw current from the battery while they are active - there is a period after the vehicle is shut down where they continue to draw current, this period can run to at least 15 - 20 minutes and the battery will display a lower voltage while this current is being drawn-off. I have seen references from other members that say disabling the hood (bonnet) lock is necessary - so that it can be opened when accessing the battery terminals - but I simply pop the hood to 1st release, then lock vehicle and leave it for 30 mins or more until I'm sure everything has shut down. That 13.3 volt alternator output looks low - does it rise to around 14.5 volts at higher engine (say 1500rpm) speed?