Warrior193

In your original post you said the vehicle 'swerves' to left - do you mean it is a sudden, uncontrollable move - or is it a more gradual movement to the left when the steering wheel is released?

See my other comment - I believe you have front/rear pressure bias wrong.

You say the pressures are "OK" but what pressures are you running? Ignore, I see already answered. IMO, you have the pressures back to front - rear pressures should normally be same or higher than fronts.

Unless the 12.081 volts is while the battery is under load, that figure on a EFB is a fraction over 50% SOC - not 73% as stated by your scan. Battery health would appear to be around 30%.

Is your Scoob battery a standard lead-acid - or EFB/AGM?

What charger are you using?

Provided there is no load on the battery, 12.10 volts on a EFB/AGM is less than 60% charged. 10.5 volts on cranking is reasonable given the relatively low SOC. 14.3 volts on charging is a little low - but again may be due to low SOC of battery.

No, look at the top of the terminal itself - I can see it is / 18 (2018)

The visual warning in the instrument cluster should initially display text (with chime) for which wheel is detected - this text disappears after a few seconds, leaving only the general TPMS warning. The actual wheel affected is stored in the information when the data is interrogated via the infotainment system.

As per a post from @silver1011 quite a few years ago, there are at least 9 parameters that must be met for automatic stop-start to be enabled - coolant, ambient and battery temperature are three of them.

There is often a date code stamped on the top of the battery negative terminal (format is WWYY) very possible that your battery is original, therefore around 7 years old. Rather than blindly replacing what is possibly a still serviceable battery, I'd suggest testing it for condition first.

I've had more than a few slow punctures due to nails and screws picked up in treads - typically, my Octavia indirect TPMS does not flag until pressure loss is approx. 0.5 bar (normally run 2.6 fronts, 2.8 rear)

Some Skoda models do have direct TPMS as an cost option - but, AFAIK, the majority use the indirect system via the ABS sensors. Reading the OBD system data may reveal historical DTCs regarding tyre pressure loss, it wont show pressures, but might show a series of events for the affected tyre.

Thanks for the report Slarti 😄 - I'm a little surprised that a brushless servo isn't used for flap release.

It is possible that there are actually DTCs registered against the event - but your reader is unable to read them. What device did you use?

I think the issue with Ali vendors (at least in my case) is the reliability (or otherwise) of the vendors in respect to actual delivery of paid-for goods - not the card itself.

There are also quite a few being touted on the Ali at very low prices - but be warned, I got burned a few years ago when an ordered and paid-for card didn't arrive and just got given a lot of nonsense from the vender - finally ended up doing a charge reversal through my credit card provider to which the vender didn't even respond!

Yes I believe any Skoda-branded SD navigation card will work, it is also possible that any VAG card will also work - you should try for 32gb card if you intend to use full EU maps as the 16gb card reportedly requires files to be edited-out to fit. There was a member selling 32gb cards on this forum a few years ago, otherwise try Ebay - there are sellers on there.

Hello Martin, welcome to the forum. For the Amundsen MIB2 unit, you require a genuine, Skoda-branded (or possibly VAG) SD card for the GPS port. I currently have my Amundsen running on 2025 maps - not sure about latest 2026.

If you mean the pre-engage solenoid, I wouldn't initially suspect it for slow crank - it is either on or off - pulling the starter pinion into engagement with the flywheel ring gear and closing the main contacts to supply power to the starter motor. Dirty contacts in the solenoid could cause your issue - but I'd be first looking at all large electrical connections (earth straps, etc) to the engine first.

I have recently seen a post where the member attempting to log-on to Erwin simply input that they were a service garage - and succeeded!

Check all earth straps from engine to chassis.

OP says greater than 14 volts with engine running.

Try testing the battery voltage while the engine is being cranked-over - if much below 10 volts, battery is probably failing. Unless you have a parasitic drain on the vehicle, battery voltage should stay above 12.30 volts (70% SOC) for at least several weeks if vehicle is unused with battery in reasonable condition.

On rereading your post I'm assuming a 265 can only be pure ICE - sounds to me that either your alternator isn't charging correctly or the battery is faulty. What is the battery voltage when the engine is running?