UrbanPanzer

Re-edited Duplicate post.......................dunno how but cannot delete..............

Something I am toying with as the next retrofit on mine...... Wiring from May 2008

I bought 4, this is what I used / was supplied by the dealer, had a little left over. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/000096320jg-coolant-g12evo-44214.html

PS this is if the long coding button does NOT work on VCDS with your car..

K-Line or CAN, both can be coded, its just how its done. CAN would be via bytes on the long coding part of VCDS, with K-line you have to add / subtract the values to code the module. Your current code is 17103 (above)..............you could try to change code to :- 19103 Ps the scan is not from my car, just an example of what I asked you to post.

The control module is not coded, thats what it's telling you. I would also ensure it's enable in gateway installation list. Not sure what coding options would be within that module

To change the locking you will need to code the vehicle using VCDS or similar. A dealer can also do it for you, but will be costly, look on VCDS / vagcom map to see if anyone local can help. Cigarette lighter would have to be wired to a new supply off terminal 15 (ignition) to do what you want. Towbar should be no issue, all down to budget what bar and who does it.

I still think this can be turned on, Post a scan of your instruments from VCDS, so it looks like below Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-17.lbl Part No: 1K0 920 952 D Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT 3HL 1212 Coding: 0023203 Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000 VCID: 2B000E667F03FACFA8B-807E No fault code found. I have a "feeling" your coding will be possibly 0021203 ??

Something VCDS will not do, does surprise me !!!..........I wonder if it was intentional to leave the function out. EDIT I see even the dealers dont / cant see it.

WIll VCDS not read the PIN from original Speedo ?

is it these bits circled in red that are "missing" on yours.... ??

no you need the "whole" kit.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304168782137?epid=1717061186&hash=item46d1df4939:g:b6MAAOSwpW1hVup4

Is there actually any official documentation on here regarding this ?? ................. sounds a bit like internet hearsay to me. The Polo as mentioned has the battery in the boot, so I would suggest the backend does not go as light under heavy braking / cornering where as the Fabia suffered this issue, hence the engineers fitted the ballast weights to counteract this, If they wanted the rear not to squat under acceleration, why not just fit stiffer springs. If the weights were there purely to slow it down, why fit them on one side, makes no sense and having first hand experience with designers and vehicle manufacturers, they do their upmost to save weight, not add it. The estate has 250mm more of body and metal work, so we can only assume it dd not need them, also add to that the extra force needed to lift the longer body under braking. I would suggest the 5kg difference is just a result of what the weights needed to sort the hatch out equated to when manufactured after knowing or calculating how much more the estate kerb weight was than the hatch and how it performed on the road.

RNS 510 does not have bluetooth built in, as mentioned you need the seperate module and associated wiring and microphone.

just splice / copy the same feeds from the front light

47

personally when fitting roof bars to any vehicle, if there is no roof rails then I always go for the genuine items as they just fit right and there is minimal chance of damage to the vehicle. Fabia ones don't look anymore ugly than any others imo LAS710001

they are all fed from the voltage control unit on a RED / Black wire PIN 2 The feed is supplied when the unit gets a signal from the door contact switch to earth when that particular the door is open, then the unit provides the earth PIN 1, when manually turning on the switch on the light contacts to earth PIN 3 There has to be a positive feed there for you to be able to turn it on manually (assuming your light has a switch) I assume your lights had not "timed out" when you checked for voltage ?

The feed to the number plate lights is a tapping of each side light circuit, right and left, so "if" your side lights are working, then subject to the bulbs being good, the problem is with the lamp assy, the earth or as mentioned above the wiring to them. PS what the hell did you post with to make your text that big !!!...........

this is what you need to buy, and yes it plugs into the quad lock connector, be careful with buying Non VAG parts, the green adapter can be to big for the quad lock. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304147839733?epid=648652162&hash=item46d09fbaf5:g:5wkAAOSwOghfn1A5 And yes it goes behind the grille in the courtesey light and clips into place ( Piccys below). It's pretty straight forward, runs from the radio behind the top glove box, then up the L/H A pillar and across to the light. Obviously you want the radio removed...... Then you only need to remove the courtesey lamp assy (remove plastic lens), undo 2 screws, let the light dangle, L/H A pillar trim just "pulls off towards the opposite side, so like "across the dash" Top glove box, just open it, there is 2 screws on upper surface, remove those and it then pulls straight out. Finally remove the fixing that holds the hinged part of the L/H sun visor, this enables a "little" flex in the roof panel when feeding the wire to the light (open cap, remove screw) Then it's a case of feeding from the radio, then along behind topo glove box, up the A pillar (secure to exisiting wiring with cable ties or tape) and across above roof trim. To get the wiring from the top of the A pillar to the courtesey light hole, using a "fishing" rod like a coat hanger or stiff piece of wire or similar pushed back from the courtesey light hole, tape your mic / wiring to it and use that to pull the wiring through. To work "well", the microphone is best placed at this height, it is very straight forward and works very well.

I'm not arguing, I have an opinion and as you correctly state it's a choice we all have.

How do you drain clean coolant into a pan when it runs all over the bottom of the vehicle because of where the bottom hose is ?? and why would you re-use it ?..... Is 25 years experience enough ?? and I do the job right first time every time. I would be interested to see what the book says. I can see where this will head, so that's it for me on this topic.

Sorry............ just do not see it's possible to change the water pump and both belts on this engine in 2 hours so I'm pretty sure a garage quoting £150 for this job would have never done it before or made a big mistake and under quoted. With ref to parts, you have not mentioned replacing / cost of the coolant either.

It actually says from "may" 2011........ So could include or not, depending on your build date. It takes a while to get that info from the manual onto those files because of the way the virtual machine runs within windows so have a look through what you think you will need, then list the PIN numbers and I will double check V the earlier version.

pin outs here for vehicles "from" 2011 Does that inlcude yours ?