UrbanPanzer

Does not have to be the motor, the switch / stalk is before that and thats the bit that has human contact a lot in its life with some being far more violent than others. imo you need to check there is power to the motor with the stalk in the ON position before condeming the motor.

lol.......😀 I don't think anyone is an idiot. The op needs to give more info than he has, otherwise it can be a guessing game and will go on for donkeys!!

Before any tangents and wild goose chases............ is there ANY coolant left in it ? How much did it loose / was it loosing ? DId it have coolant in it "before" it stopped....... ? RED warnings on the dash are never a good sign.

This could take a while to find......... The panel gap is most likely a result from a rear end bump / collison / crash, it would never come of the production line like that. Unless the tailgate is that poorly fitted / loose as a result of an impact / damage then I doubt the alignment would make the noise. I know you said your on your own, but surely a friend or neigbour could drive for you whilst you float around in the rear seats / boot to listen / try identify where it is.

In all honesty, very hard to tell anything from that apart from that there IS a rattle 😁 If I took a pot shot, I would be looking at the boot catch / latch and boot stops to ensure its pulled tight when closed. After that would be rear seat latches...................Does it make the noise with the rear seats folded down / unlatched ?

It is retained by the plastic nut, but don't forget there is also 2 "poppers" (ball and sockets), one of which is located exactly where the light is proud.......thats possibly broken off / worn out.

Get someone else to drive whilst your in the boot, atleast you should be able to narrow it down to roughly where it is and if it's inside or outside the body.

left hand here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402858852812?hash=item5dcc4241cc:g:D~0AAOSwlF1fUQ5b

how tall are you ?? im 6ft 2 and don't have an issue

Have yet to find an alternator where you cannot replace the actual bit that usually fails. Looking at the manual, it's either a Bosch or Valeo unit. So one of 2 numbers of regulator, both available on Ebay for example. They are clearly marked on the back of the alternator, so a quick look should show either Bosch or Valeo.

Remember you can simply replace the voltage regulator part of the alternator, no need to change the whole unit as often there is nothing wrong with the mechanical part. A far cheaper option.

think you can, in the picture above you can clearly see the top rubber seal is "proud" of the roof line, it should be sat "up / under" the roof edge, as on the back door. EDIT :- see the O/S is as it should be on both doors..

looks to me that the front door needs adjusting...........where I have arrowed its to far out, so maybe needs the latch adjusting and or the frame. Should be easy enough to get a lot better.

i bet its coded out. do you have VCDS to look at the coding in your instruments ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ci8LKgK3To

heres what Cocain is talking about....on the right is where I added the factory cruise loom, this comes out above the pedals, quite easy to see / feel.

both your videos are the same.............you patting the water in the boot

Skoda dealer

I would suggest it was / is an option which is turned ON / OFF at point of sale, so country dependant.

so is the picture you posted "your" switch ?

Do you have front fog lights ?

I think the water pump pulley is "to far out" from the mounting surface, which almost from day one promotes wear and eventual failure, add to that the constant force applied on and off all the time with the super charger clutch and pulley engaging, it's not really up to the job "imo"......hence failures at low mileage.

well if the bulb looks ok and your happy its in correctly.....then it has to be how the headlight is mounted in the vehicle, unless there is actual adjusters for the main beam, not sure if there is, cannot find any in the workshop manual. Obviously if you adjust the headlight on it's mountings, you would then need to bring the dipped beam back into scope with the adjusters, or atleast check it on a beam setter. PS have you swapped left for right bulbs just to check ?

What type of headlights are they ? "normal" or projector ? The headlamp setting is for low beam, the high beam then should be correct. Have you tried a different bulb, does not take much distortion with heat to throw the beam pattern out a lot. Happens more so with the influx of cheap chinese bulbs.

I'm not close to you, about 90 miles away but would happily code as required if needed, obviously you would have to travel to me. PS I think it has.........................BUT not all of these RNS units have bluetooth built in (which means you would need the additional module etc), why I don't know...............Anyway....what I would advise BEFORE purchasing regarding the one you linked above is ask the seller for a picture of the RIGHT hand side of the unit when looking at it. This is where the part number sticker is and where the MAC address is shown, you need to see if the MAC address is populated with letters and numbers NOT 0's. should be like below with Bluetooth.