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Looking through this thread, it seems a lot of you are being fobbed off by Skoda who should be taking this dangerous fault very seriously. It needs reporting to the DVSA via this link by everyone who has been affected :- Vehicle recalls and faults: Report a serious safety defect - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk) Hopefully the DVSA will then force VW into a safety recall for all affected vehicles.

The only permanent fault in that list is P189C, the rest are intermittent. Below is Ross-Tech evaluation of this fault :- P189C/006300 - Ross-Tech Wiki It seems there is a common problem on this gearbox where the casting for the gearbox mechatronix pressure vessel cracks, so looses hydraulic pressure & causes the malfunction of the mechatronix. Many repair kits available on eBay showing how common this is, but a relatively cheap repair considering. p189c vw | eBay

If the car is parked on a fairly level road or drive, leave it parked in 1st gear with the handbrake off. You won't then get that problem again.

Sounds like a flat battery. Get someone to give you a jump start.

Here is the diagram for the ignition switch. I've taken a photo as I don't know how I can copy a PDF diagram onto here. Diagram of Terminal 15 relay in the post below as too large to add on this post.

When you turn the key to Ignition On you liven up Terminal 15 which activated the ECU & sparks. Just wondering if you might have a faulty ignition switch. Possibly when you turn the key to the Start position you are loosing Terminal 15 voltage, so no sparks. Then when the key is released the engine is still turning & terminal 15 is restored. Suggest you connect a test meter to terminal 15 & watch it while trying to start, it should be live all the time. Just a thought & not any previous experience of this.

I filled the car up the following day and as soon as I pulled out of the Shell garage it started to regen again. One of the requirements for an assisted regen is that the fuel tank is 1/4 full. Maybe it dropped below 1/4 & the regen was stopped, then automatically re-started as soon as you filled up.

I would get it scanned with VCDS. An injector wiring fault should bring up a specific injector code, even if it's intermittent.

What is the engine code ? You may be able to fit an EGR emulator which would be a lot easier & cheaper.

The reductant injection pump isn't giving the correct feedback to what is being requested by the controller, so bringing up the bottom fault code. Probably because of that, the two codes above that are being generated.

The EGR & NOx faults are likely to be expensive fixes. I would get it booked in with Skoda ASAP, hopefully for a free fix under your extended warranty.

Regarding the windows, have you checked the cabling in the rubber bellows of the drivers door, where the cables run from the car interior to the door near the hinges. They have a habit of fracturing inside the plastic cable covering & sometimes even break, due to the bending every time the door is opened. Worth pulling back the gaiter & checking.

" Engine then revved itself to 6k rpm for a few seconds when I put gearbox in neutral & dropped back to normal. No loss of power or drive but engine is noisy. " Diesel engines are governed to usually around 5k revs, as mechanical damage can occur at higher revs. As Ken says, it sounds like the engine has had a runaway running on its own oil & so not having the revs controlled by the ECU. Almost certainly due to a faulty turbo. Irreparable damage ( as in uneconomical to repair ) may well have been done to the engine & a replacement engine may well be required. Top up the oil & remove the inlet air supply from the turbo before trying to start so that the engine has an air supply but not via the turbo. If the engine is still noisy it will probably be toast. Just to add, don't run the engine for long as will probably be pumping oil through the faulty turbo still.

When you say 11.9 volts starting up, is that the voltage after you switch on the ignition ? If so, then the battery is on the way out or could just be low on charge if you do lots of short journeys. Perhaps try giving the battery an overnight charge. But being as the battery is 7 years old & it is summer when there is much less strain on the battery, I think a new battery is probably the way to go.

As said previously, black smoke is due to unburnt fuel. Rather than excess fuel, it can be due to lack of oxygen available to burn the fuel. If the EGR is stuck open, combustion could be getting stifled by the lack of oxygen due to excess inert EGR exhaust gas. Just something worth checking.

So it's a one owner car, FSH, not many 15 year old cars can compete with that. I'd put it on eBay Auction, state it's been a repaired write off, as well as all the good bits. I think you will sell it with no trouble at all. It will be gone at the end of the auction for a fair price.

Would have expected the noise to be from the DMF rather than the gearbox. I guess you will find out once they get the box removed.

Have you tried charging the battery with a mains charger. Charge it for at least 24hrs then check the voltage. A lot of cars are doing short journeys only at the moment which doesn't allow the battery to charge sufficiently from the cars alternator.

It sounds like the immobiliser is kicking in, this is checked between the key transponder aerial & cluster for a match. If VCDS won't talk to the cluster, may be a fuse supplying the cluster has blown. Check all your fuses including those in the engine bay fusebox.

I know you've checked, but I'd be surprised if you haven't put a fuse back in the wrong position. It's always a good idea to take a photo of the fuse panel before they're disturbed. In general, all fuse positions where you can see 2 silver sockets for the fuse to fit in, should have a fuse in it. ( probably have to remove the fuse to see this ) If one end is silver & the other black, there shouldn't be a fuse in that position. Fuses can also fracture just by removing them. So check them all with a meter for continuity.

It sounds like you still have a battery problem. Check the battery posts are clean & the connections are tight. Also check the earth strap to chassis connection is the same.

You could get a solar panel & wire it into the accessory socket if that stays live. Otherwise wire to a permanent 12v supply wire via an in-line fuse. That will keep the battery fully charged.

If the engine runs smoothly once started it's unlikely to be the injectors. Have you tried switching on the ignition until all the dash lights are on, but not as far as turning the engine over. Try doing this 3 or 4 times before actually turning the key as far as the start position. The point of doing this is to run the fuel pump a few times, which will displace any air in the fuel system if that is your problem. Try it & let us know if any improvement.

Might be worth speaking to this company who look like they are pretty expert at repairing these boxes. MILTA Technology | Automatic Gearbox Repair & Replacement They report prices between £500 - £900 for a new clutch, depending on the model of gearbox. They are in Bristol, so possibly not too far from you.