Schtum

We had ours done professionally several years ago. I don't think there was anything of note. Most of our internal walls are solid so much of the cabling is on the outside of the house with ethernet sockets in 5 rooms. My son then extended the system last year by running a cable to the bottom of the garden so that there's now Internet access in the cabin down there.

If you really want to find out, get a local tuner to run it on a dyno to see what it's making at the wheels. If it's within spec and you want more, have them remap it. I have the same engine in my Yeti. It wasn't exactly a ball of fire as standard but remapped to c. 185 bhp it'll live with our 190 TDI Karoq on the road. The issue isn't peak horsepower. Rather, it's the area under the torque curve that's important.

Probably not. The emissions fix wasn't applied to the 2015 on EA288 Euro 6 engines. These also have a different location for the EGR depending on which market. https://www.greencarcongress.com/2014/03/20140322-ea288.html

That'll be because your car is 2016 and therefore pre WLTP. Our 2019 Karoq defaults to Normal every time.

A school mate of mine went for a "bucket of steam" when he was working in a tweed mill while he was on holiday from Edinburgh University where he was doing his Chemistry degree. "Well, I thought, I'd get an insulated bucket," he claimed. I think he just went for a skive. Maidenhead punches were never that sought after for some reason..... 🤗

I think their power gain claims are nonsense. A good remap on a 190 TDI will see c. 230 bhp. I've looked into it for our 190 TDI Karoq and having already had my 150 TDI Yeti remapped to c. 185 bhp. I've seen people claiming unattainable figures without a bigger turbo and larger injectors. Can I also suggest watching Darkside Developments' test of tuning boxes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_sIRoPgFFI

It's not obvious which model you have but that's not the case for our 190 TDI which is happy way over 70 mph.

This is the easiest but not the cheapest way to do it. https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ppd170-used-bkd-aluminium-inlet-manifold-conversion-kit.html. Otherwise, you can source a manifold from a breaker, I'd recommend Wigan VAG Parts, make sure its clean inside, get the correct gasket set and the necessary bolts. The Darkside kit comes with a .pdf fitting guide. It's not exactly straightforward but no major modifications are needed. Personally, I'm not a fan of DPF removal. It's an MOT fail and a Constructions and Use Offence and I dislike smokey cars. However, if you do remove it, you can probably see c. 240 bhp and over 360 lbs-ft with a remap. 210 bhp and 330 lbs-ft was enough to light up the front wheels of my Golf on anything other than a dry road, even with the traction control enabled.

Slave, I'm afraid.

PD 170. So it's a BMN engine. Is it still running the original plastic inlet manifold with flaps? If so, you'd be well advised to swap that for a BKD alloy manifold without flaps. The flaps stick and break up and in extremis, bits get sucked into the. head. Also the bushes for the spindle on which they're mounted wear and that allows boost to leak out of the manifold. All of that leads to rough running, poor performance and poor fuel economy. Changing to the BKD, PD140, inlet cures all that. If you then have the car remapped you should get 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft. I did this to my old Mk5 Golf GT Sport and it flew while returning 50 + mpg on long runs if I restrained myself from exceeding 100 mph for long.

I think the only thing obvious with ours is that the lumbar adjustment handle for the driver's seat doesn't want to stay attached and is currently living in the glove compartment. I can't comment on how it stands up to "family life" as there are only two of us these days. However, it seems pretty robust and well screwed together; at least as well as the 5 VW's that preceded it.

You can but since Rkdee is in Australia, it probably makes more sense to buy it from a company there. Hence my link to eBay.au

I'd be doing it at the recommended 40k mile interval, I think. How many miles are on your car and have you had the Haldex properly serviced? Having recently seen pics of Haldex 5 gauze strainers completely clogged at 20k miles, I recently had our 2019 TDI 190 Haldex done at 20k miles. Talking to my local indy VAG Specialist, Brian Curley at Star Performance in Dysart who I've been using for getting on for 20 years, he agreed that 20k is a wise service interval for the Haldex.

This is what you need... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142865892529

Or it might be spec dependent. 190 TDI 4x4 DSG probably makes it worthwhile, whereas FWD cars would just spin their wheels. GS and X-Country, these days.

Ours has.

WBAC offered me £13k for my 45k miles, 2016 SE L drive 4x4 150 TDI a few weeks ago and recently revised that downwards to £11k; perhaps because it was after the car's birthday. It will obviously depend of the spec of your car but I wouldn't have anything whatsoever to do with Arnold Clark.

You don't say if you're in the West, the East or the middle. If it works for you, I'd suggest Star Performance in Dysart, Fife without hesitation. I've been using them to repair and service various VAG cars over the past 20 years. If it's had the 'emissions fix', I'd be inclined to get that rolled back at the same time and perhaps also get them to remap it. https://www.starperformance.co.uk

Having experimented with 16's, 17's, 18's and 19's on three previous Mk1 VW Tiguans, I concluded that 17's were the best ride / handling / steering compromise. The 17's were dealer supplied Audi Q3 alloys and they now live on the Karoq in the winter, fitted with Dunlop D5 Winter Sport.

A quick eBay search reveals... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265059449150?hash=item3db6c6393e:g:UokAAOSw0QlgL26t

I fitted Heko ones to my Yeti so that I could leave the windows cracked to prevent it getting too hot inside in the summer which is the same reason that I fitted mesh blinds to all the glass aft of the driver's and front seat passenger's windows. It's best to fit then in warm weather or at least, heat them up first. Also, they do increase wind noise, especially in combination with my roof bars. It can get a bit raucous into a head wind at 70 mph.

We have the "Unintended Acceleration" lawsuit in the USA in the early 90's, against Audi by clumsy Americans who pressed both pedals at the same time in their Audi 5000's to thank for that. It used to be that you could get round it by disconnecting the brake light switch on the brake pedal. I don't know if that's still the case in this CANBus era and it's not something you'd want to do for driving on the road.

The CX was larger. I had a friend who had the CX Familiale estate version and it was fairly huge. The BX only had a limited amount of power and torque but it weighed just over a ton so went quite well in its day. However, don't think that I didn't look into the possibility of making it a bit quicker. If I remember correctly, I paid £13k for it when it was new. It was very nice to drive and had excellent sports seats that rivalled Recaros.

It's a Citroën BX TZD Turbo Estate. 1769cc XUD engine with 90 PS and 133 lbs-ft.

A contender for one of the best cars I've owned. I got it new in 1990 and drove it for 238,000 miles until I wrote it off in '98 in a low speed accident in traffic in Edinburgh. I thrashed it pretty much everywhere including extended periods at 100 mph on French Autoroutes and around Circuit de Charade at Clermont Ferrand with wife, kids and tyres squealing. I took it off road, towed half a dozen grass surfers around a large field perched on a big sheet of plywood, towed an overly large caravan up and down Lake District passes, taught my 8 year old son to drive in it. I could go on... In its lifetime it consumed three radiators, two sets of suspension spheres, a few sets of discs and pads and several tyres. I fitted the Peugeot 205 GTi alloys largely to get more air to the brakes after setting fire to them coming down Puy de Dôme. When it was written off it was still on its original turbo and had had no engine work other than oil and filter changes.