Bap33

When coasting, the engine still burns some fuel to avoid stalling. Just have a look to the fuel consumption. You'll see that it's not 0. It's around 0.7-0.8l/h instead, just as at idle. When not coasting, engine consumption IS 0, for proper engine braking.

Unfortunately, it won’t make the warning message off. You need to reset the warning message too. It’s not easy to do it. 17-Instruments > 10-Adaptation Then look for the « warning » line in the whole bunch of possibilities from the rolling menu.

@MartiniB Thanks. Sorry, I had read to quickly and had missed your comments about pinkish 6+6 LEDs. I've clicked on the link for 12+6 LED, but unfortunately it's not available anymore and when clicking on "find similar", there's no matching result... 😐 Feux d'avertissement de porte LED 3AD 947 411, adaptés à la Golf 5 Golf 6 MK5 MK6 Passat CC B6 B7 Tiguan | AliExpress

I've bought something similar on ali, but unfortunately the red part of the light looks somehow "pinkish". I've now found the same bulb retrofit set on ali: Lampe Led d'avertissement de porte de voiture avec pinces à câble, pour passage B6 B7 Golf 5 6 MK6 7 MK7 Tiguan CC 3AD 947 411 | AliExpress Does the red part of the light really look red (not "pinkish" nor "orangish") on yours? Feedback much appreciated. TIA

Cool, if now sorted out. Next time look twice before you go !

@SomethingSuperbly Thanks for this feedback. I hadn't made a possible link between the "Manoeuvre braking currently unavailable" warning upon the engine start up, and the battery charge level. I'll pay closer attention to this. May be my battery needs being charged a bit.

Not in the proposed options, but what about a VW Arteon Estate? Not ready to replace my current Mk3 Estate, but probably an option I could study when time has come...

Just had a look to the said workshop manual (p4) . It looks like the capacity of the final drive is 0.95l.

Not that dirty for a first cleaning of the pump strainer after 70000km. Good news.👍 Regarding the oil quantity in the diff, take a look on cardiagn.com. You´ll be able to download all workshop manuals. Chapter « Propshaft and rear final drive » should contain the required oil quantity

Try to drive it home at low speed. I don’t think 20km is enough to completely ruin your diff. However, to take less risks, try to jack the car and start to refill the diff a bit. Then refill it correctly in proper conditions, once back home.

When you stop (at a trafic light for instance), you can even notice the beam getting narrower on the rear bumper of the car just ahead. Quite funny…

I fear @ApertureS is right unfortunatly. Sorry that the links the images are broken in my tutorial 😞. This is a common mistake: drain the Haldex and fill the diff, then go and… break the (drained) Haldex. Or drain the diff and fill the Haldex… leading to break the (drained) diff… Stop everything, take a good breath, check every step from the beginning a see where is your mistake. If needed, the same tutorial is available here: https://forum-skoda-superb.discuforum.info/t10261-Vidanger-son-Haldex-soi-meme-systeme-4x4.htm or here: https://forums.audipassion.com/topic/226357-tuto-vidanger-le-haldex-gen-5-a1-8x-a-s-rs3-8p-et-8v-q-sq2-q-rsq3-8u-tt-tts-ttrs-8j-et-8s/ But they are in french. 😜 As said above don’t drive your car until both Haldex and Diff are correctly filled. ⚠️

Same thing for me in France. Additionally, when time to sell your car has come, I don't know about Danish 2nd hand market, but VW have usually a better resale value here.

Same for me. I had to change the battery on my former Mk2 after only 3.5 years. My Mk3 is exactly 5 years old in 2 days and still has its 1st mount battery. I'm quite positively surprised since it has Stop & Start, heated windshield, and many other equipment that can drain the battery. I cross the fingers that it can last 1 or 2 years more (fortunately, I have several trips over 25 km / 25 mn drive every week, to keep it charged).

@Gabrielem Feel free to post your feedback here, once done.

Fortunately, yes, it can. When I did it, I did not use VCDS. Just follow my tutorial, it will be ok.

May be there is way to change the setting with VCDS…

85000km on the clock of my Mk3 and still 1st mount TRW brake pads on. They’re far from the limit (12-13mm whereas minimum is 9mm including back plate). Note: my Mk3 is also estate version with TDI190 + DS6 + 4x4 = heavy configuration which should decrease brake pads lifetime. Very positively surprised with these pads. Same thing on my wife´s Audi Q3: 149000 km on the clock and still 1st mount TRW brake pads on (but manual gear and FWD only) I fear I will have sold both cars before I need to change brake discs and pads… Otherwise I would probably change for ATE Ceramics discs & pads, which seem to have similar braking efficiency but without brown brake dust. This ceramics treatment helps keeping clean wheels longer.

@MrRich Do you have DCC in your Mk3? Leakage on front shock aborbers is known issue. May be worth to have a quick look at them…

I have a similar issue. I randomly get an error message « manœuvre braking unvailable ». But my tow bar is fitted from the origin (car manufactured in oct 2017). It’s not a retrofitted one. I did not take time to make a VCDS scan till then. I had thought it could be related to wheather conditions since it happens mainly in moist, rainy, cold (below 10C) conditions. But this hypothesis doesn’t match 100%. I´ll post back here if my VCDS scan gives any clue.

Same for me.

Sometimes the trailer raises a warning because its both rear lights are connected to the same pin of the tow bar plug. Then, as the bulb failure detection system sees no current on one of the two rear light pins, it triggers a warning. May be worth to check.

Did you try to reset the electric boot? I know the opening height can be adjusted. The reset operation should be described in the user’s manual.

Hi, Before buying a new lighting board, I would start checking the current one. May be there’s a weak cable somewhere making a false contact or a shortcut. I would also check the plugs of the trailer which could be partially rusted, leadind to the same symptoms as above. I think this may be a common issue on boat trailers since operated in moist / salt conditions. I assume there are 2 plugs on your boat trailer (1 for the hook / 1 for the lighting board) These could be the root causes of all what you’re facing.

Did the dealer try to reset the SW or reinstall the latest SW version? It may bring everything in the right configuration… Not heard of such thing either…