Alasdair1

That sounds like a nightmare to track down. Only thing I can think of is the original boost pressure relief valve was faulty and maybe the new one as well or pressure sensor sending wrong info to ecu. My old 1.9tdi used to overboost randomly due to a sticking actuator but generally it went into limp mode and threw up a code. The fact that you have no codes is a weird one. Alasdair

Have you tried a length of hose one end to your ear and the other moved about engine bay. It may help narrow down where the noise is coming from. Son in laws td5 landrover makes a whistle noise due to bad exhaust manifold gasket but only at higher revs when turbo kicks in?? Alasdair

If the turbo has been thoroughly cleaned I would start with actuator. If yours is the same as my current skoda octavia 1.6tdi cayc then its electronic and may have failed or connection to it is dodgy or as said sticking at some point. I think they need calibrated when replacing. Hopefully lubricating it will cure problem. Alasdair

Had similar on my old 1.9tdi but it was overboost. Actuator was sticking at a certain point and causing limp mode. I cleaned and lubricated it and manually operated it for ages until it became smooth. When I was driving it it used to make a slight blow off sound. Similar to what you hear on subaru impreza but not as loud then loss of power but no EML light. I used to pull over into layby and switch off then restart and it cured it till next time. Alasdair

Could be a sticking actuator or perhaps diaphram in actuator has failed. I assume the turbo vanes have been cleaned as you mentioned turbo was cleaned. If not it could be stuck vanes in turbo or perhaps a vaccum leak to turbo unless its an electronic operated one in which case could be failed sensor Alasdair

Think the only way is to either get dealer to do diagnostic or maybe get it scanned at a decent independent garage with vcds Sounds like something has failed Could be the compressor or sensors etc but without a scan its guess work Alasdair

I think the alarm system has multiple fuses. One specifcly for siren but the internal movement sensors will share one with other things and the main alarm system I believe is controlled by BCM and is an integral part of car so cant be switched off by pulling fuse. You could see if someone has VCDS and scan it as if the alarm is going off randomly when driving it should have stored a code. (Think its stores the last 5 ) Check the switch for the front bonnet. If its dirty or has a bad connection I read it can trigger alarm as well as door switches. By scanning with vcds it should help pinpoint whats setting it off. On mine the movement sensor is near the interior light and on door pillars. There should be a disable switch on drivers pillar down low near seat belt fixing. According to Ai this is how to find codes in VCDS but it is from Ai?? Read Alarm Sources: In VCDS, navigate to Select Control Module > 46-Central Conv. (or Address 09-Central Electronics). Click on Measuring Blocks (or Advanced Measuring Values). Navigate to Group 015, 018, 019, or 020. These specific groups store the Alarm Sources and the Alarm Sound Trigger logs. [1] Interpret the Code: The logged number indicates the exact sensor that tripped the alarm. If you are using VCDS or OBDeleven and get specific numbered codes for the alarm trigger source, use this breakdown to identify the culprit: [1] 1: Terminal 15 (Ignition switched on) 2: Door contact switch (Front left / Driver's door) 3: Door contact switch (Front right / Passenger's door) 4: Door contact switch (Rear left) 5: Door contact switch (Rear right) 6: Bonnet switch 7: Tailgate / Boot switch 8: Interior monitoring (Movement inside the cabin) 9: Terminal 30 (Voltage supply dropped/disconnected) 10: Inclination sensor (Car being towed or lifted) 11: Sensor for anti-theft alarm (General fault in the J393 module)

No advisory on wiper. advisory on two lower front bushes (the ones in alloy block) which I have but havent changed yet. Failed on another broken spring (front this time) God knows who put the hub bolt in last time. had to use 1" drive and 6 foot scaffolding pole to remove it. Still to do the other side but apart from that not bad at all for a 120K 14 year old car. Going to nick the wiper motor off my old 1.9tdi when I get a chance. Still got a weird wobble only when accelerating around 50mph but it comes and goes so hoping its down to worn bushes. If it doesnt then replacement drive shafts. Alasdair

From memory the bio fuel can degrade certain seals etc. pus tends to clean sludge from tank and clog filters. Same as running on veg oil. I doubt one tank would cause any harm. Have had a few cars with no bio-fuel on fuel cap which I think means bio-diesel stronger than B7 but one tank of B10 shouldnt cause any lasting harm. Alasdair

Sounds as though the master has given up as you said maybe extra pressure with new slave. At least you now have evidence that its knackered and it should be covered by waranty. Hope a new master will cure all. Alasdair

Hopefully the slave will cure the problem. Might be worth pressure bleeding system first if it hasnt already been done just in case theres air left in it somewhere . I tried doing mine manually but didnt feel right so used a pressure bleeder and after a while a couple of bubbles appeared. Alasdair

Is your clutch/brake reservoir losing fluid. If it is its a leak if not sounds like seals on either have failed and letting fluid past them. Either way it should be covered by warranty as there's a problem with clutch. Check the level and top up to max and monitor it. Sorry havent heard of webinar but someone on will hopefully know. I used Sachs master and slave and they werent expensive. Think it was around £80 for both. Alasdair

No I managed to do the slave in my sons fabia mk1 without removing Gbox. Had to remove battery and compartment and think gear linkage to get access. Main problem with one person is holding slave in place to get bolts in as it tends to spring out. If you have problems with clutch and fluid is leaking it could be master or slave. If the slave leaks the actuator on an external one is internal so you dont notice any fluid. Check bottom of bell housing. Theres normally a small gap. If theres fluid there then its the slave leaking. The seals can also go and allow fluid past them but not leak on either. Just done the master on my Octavia. No signs of leaking but pedal went to floor and it was collecting on the undertray. Its more difficult to get to. Its one of those jobs you can see it but cant reach it!! especially with hands like mine. Alasdair

Not sure if the climatronic fan has a resistor pack. If its failed it may be the cause. Alasdair

Had a quick google and the one that came up looks external. You should be able to just see it in car under gear linkage/battery etc If its external will look like above or similar Alasdair

Just finished rewiring my old tractor. Used classic PVC old school cable and went for higher current capacity than needed . Lots of fine strands and very flexible. 17amp standard pvc is 2mmsq copper and 16.5amp thin wall is 1mmsq copper so half the thickness of copper. Alasdair

If it happened after headlight removal I would remove headlight again and check that all wiring is secure/no corosion/no breaks. It could also be coincidence and the motor in headlight has failed. Perhaps a scan with vcds would ping up a code or point to any underlying problems. Alasdair

Car wiring is getting thinner and thinner. They get away with thinner wire and harder thinner insulation that can cope with higher current so I reckon not so flexible and more prone to breaks. Old friend used to fit Taxi meters and some of the wiring he had to deal with was more like threads rather than cable. I suppose its a cost thing but would happily pay extra for decent cable. Alasdair

Found this on LLL parts. Its the rear wiring harness for abs rear abs sensors. It looks like the cable joins and runs as a single cable with a connector and then to the front. Cant seem to paste picture but link might work. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/6q0927904f/wiring-harness-for-speed-sensor-6q0927904f Went for a 2010 fabia although should be able to narrow it down by inputing VIN. Alasdair

If moving the wiring changes any reading it points to either a break or a bad connection somewhere. I would first clean any plugs/sockets and make sure they are secure and making good contact. If it still changes when moving wiring I would suspect a break in a wire somewhere. Alasdair

If theres a join I would think its under rear seats or perhaps under plastic sill guard at base of doors. Best option would be to find where they come into car and trace towards front. Reckon the rear section if joined will be shorter and easier to find/replace/repair. Just noticed though that theres no signal from either and the original post said it looked like they travel seperately so unless they meet and use one connector at some point cant see why both have gone at the same time unless they share an earth/common cable. Alasdair

Looking at the diagram G44 and G46 have round sections in cable which I assumed was a join. The front dont so I assume go direct. Alasdair

Well done for getting a CRV to the 20 year mark. They were well built cars without so much electronics that modern ones have. Never had a Superb but have had 3 octavias but love the older ones. At moment have a 12 plate 1.6tdi but would change back to the 1.9tdi tomorrow. The 1.6tdi has never given me any real problems but I still dont have the same confidence in it as I did with the more basic 1.9tdi plus the more modern the car the less I can do mechanics wise. As said next one will be petrol either 1.8 or 2.0 tsi. Alasdair

I usually go for the larger engines in cars as I do a bit of towing plus I believe (may be wrong) they dont have to work so hard as the smaller ones to get a car of the superb size and weight going. As previously said the 2.0 tsi is a well proven engine and as long as it has a very good service history its the one I would go for. All my cars have been diesel for years but not doing the mileage anymore and dpf is constantly regen. I miss the 1.9tdi pd with no dpf. Next one will be either the 1.8 or 2.0tsi Alasdair

From memory on my sons MK1 it goes from wheel sensor along rear beam and into car under rear seats then along I think under plastic door base trims into front then through bulk head to ABS unit. I have a feeling there are connections under plastic base/carpet trim at rear doors. Alasdair