Alasdair1

I can confirm. Had old volvo with small pin hole in fuel return. Stink of petrol was awful. Had car running to see where leak was and woosh small fireball. Pin hole was hitting manifold. Lucky was on the return and only enough to cause flash fire and had co2 extinguisher handy although eye brows took a while to recover. Any petrol leak is in my opinion very serious as vapours tend to build up especially when car is sitting. Also an immediate MOT fail and immediate prohibiton from driving. Read the Mk2 was recalled for fuel leak but havent seen any for the mk3 Alasdair

I agree even the branded ones were poor . First line etc bushes used to last about 6 months if you were lucky and anything rubber perished real quick. Local garage used to say fine for an MOT if your selling it afterwards. When it comes to older vehicles. Decent manufacturers stopped making parts probably as they weren't selling enough so unless you got new old stock you were getting c**p made in india or china. Saying that the quality seems to be improving with aftermarket parts or maybe I have been lucky

I wouldnt use second hand flexi etc but have been using second hand calipers/abs units etc for years. They can fail yes but so can any original ones fitted. I always fit new brake master cylinders and as for flexi hoses for all the cost its cheaper to replace them instead of paying £80/hour or more for someone to remove them and check them and then tell you they need replaced anyway. Last pair I bought cost £30 Alasdair

I have been using KYB shocks and springs for years and they seem to last well. I would replace top mounts while your at it and bump stops etc as well. Its not my favourite job at all. As for spring compressors I have a triple set but also add another two just in case. My local garage used to do them for a tenner each(cash) they have a hydraulic compressor that takes minutes. The spring compressors I have a locking mechanism so they cant come off Think mine were made by Laser. Alasdair

Have read its a fairly common fault hence why they have a repair kit on the shelf. Cant see it being classed as wear and tear (more of a manufacturing defect) but maybe check with garage that gave you warranty first as if its fixed by someone else they may say warranty invalid. Years ago had a radiator fail 2 days after buying car and had to be fixed elsewhere as we were away from home. When I tried to claim from garage they said that unless they did the repair they werent liabel. Alasdair

Recon at that price definitly worth buying. Thats a very nice looking car. My son would love it but alas at 19 the insurance may be a tad high for him and if I get another car I would be in big trouble. Alasdair

I know its an older car but I fitted my own on a Seat 09 plate and used a smart bypass relay to avoid having to tell car there was a tow bar fitted mainly to stop the bulb failure warning etc. Had to run a live feed from battery with 15amp fuse . went for a towtrust tow bar (very good quality) and smart relay. I went for a heavy duty fixed one. Price to me all in was around £180 and fitted it myself plus some cable and socket. Got it from https://www.towbars-uk.co.uk/ Alasdair

The garage will have looked at flexi hoses for perishing and leaks/kinks but as far as I know there is no way of checking if internal is slightly blocked apart from replacing. Get them to check also any metal brake lines that may have been damaged by something hitting them on the road . Folks put there old car off the road in winter and had to be winched out. I checked underneath once they got it home and one of the front metal pipes was slightly dented which caused slight uneven braking. It doesnt take much to cause an imbalance. Alasdair

I would change the front flexi hoses first. Its not unknown for them to collapse internally especially if someone has used a brake hose clamp at some time. It will cause brake fluid restriction as there could be an internal bulge. Fairly cheap and easy to do. If it doesn't improve then take it further. Maybe second hand abs/hydraulic unit Alasdair

It depends if its been changed previously and if they used a decent quality belt. My octavia mk2 had been done at 50k (not by dealer) but I did it again myself when I bought it at 90k to be on the safe side. The belt that had been fitted wasnt one I had heard of (Stark?) and didn't look very good with slight cracking. I replaced with gates kit and still do mine around every 60k or 6 years. The original belt according to skoda should be fine but as said 140k I think is pushing it . Check the service history to make sure it hasnt been changed already. Alasdair

Check the previous MOT for corosion underneath and anything else that its failed on. Can be a good way to see if car has been looked after. I reckon at that price its worth it. Have bought two Octavia over the years for around that price with decent service history and had no problems apart from corosion on sills,wheel arches and underneath. I'm in north scotland so salt is a car killer. They have both been mechanicaly great. One was the 1.9tdi pre fl and newest is 1.6tdi MK2 post fl Factor in a timing belt change etc if its not already been done. Alasdair

Have the same on my old one although just one thats failed but came accross this https://www.briskoda.net/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=90536 Pretty detailed guide on how to plus think LED parts are listed. Alasdair

Maybe try another trailer if possible with standard bulbs to see if it makes a difference. If it is it might be possible to tell ecu etc that its LED for towing as yours is a MK3.

Not fabia but octavia with 1.6tdi cayc (103bhp) engine. I get 40plus around town and 50-55 on long runs. Used to get a lot more on my old 1.9tdi. I would have thought you should get more from the fabia as its lighter but may depend on what engine you have power wise or if its one of the engines that had the skoda emission fix which can reduce MPG? I would change airfilter to see if it makes any difference. Not sure how to tell if its had the fix. Think it was a software update and a change in intake. Someone on here will know. Alasdair

If its LED lights on trailer they use a lot less current so car may think there is a problem with lights. I believe you can get a load resistors to increase current or use a bypass relay or convert trailer to standard bulbs. Alasdair

As said not advised taste wise but hope you get to the bottom of it. Havent heard of a matrix system before but you learn every day. Unless its a small amount of brake fluid I cant see why the level isnt dropping. A long shot but maybe a problem with matrix itself As said hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

Not sure on yours as mine is MK2 diesel 1.9tdi and 1.6tdi with mechanical pumps but a quick google on skodaparts.com and found this for 1.4tsi caxa The above is electrically operated and dont think lubricated by engine oil so sorry I may be wrong as to where the oil is coming from if it is oil. The only other source of oil I can think of is bad pcv valve. I don't recommend this at all but over the years of working on cars have found brake fluid tastes different to engine oil and tends to have a sweet chemical odour and numbs tongue. They are both toxic!! and taste awful so not really advised. Alasdair

Could it be a failing vacuum pump thats letting oil in? Trace back the servo hose. Alasdair

Had same on my old 58 plate. Dim warning lights like DPF etc (only visible at night) with bright fog lights symbol on dash when headlights only on etc It was a bad loose connection where cluster connects. I removed cluster and cleaned contacts and reseated and it went back to normal. Remember to disconnect battery before removing cluster. Check battery voltage before doing anything as low voltage can cause all manner of weird problems. Alasdair

Think I read its a general warning. It said to check infotainment for further info. If its only on when towing it may be a bad connection in trailer or poor earth even though lights are working. Are your trailer lights LED or normal bulbs Alasdair

I dont suppose theres a part number on the plug and replace it. Alasdair

Mk1 1.8 vrs on ebay breaking. Not sure if its the same as yours. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/116190808688?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339120189&toolid=20006&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1_3EJNriUTeiQpvjlRhe26A41&customid=Cj0KCQjwsdnNBhC4ARIsAA_3heiiMpPzkwti1zrXvRelCcv4Tt4nWuzFGuvD8GmFJwRur3FCxiHYDYMaAsQ6EALw_wcB|0AAAAAoWc2zecsxpf81V08Ogtivk2wFH18|CkAKCAjwjtTNBhBYEjAA_ep-tEvKMZcKbLPxGzVtj1QPKICaJa7i6N8AW-pUreVGk5Msop0aBZhgujq-kIoaApkD&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsdnNBhC4ARIsAA_3heiiMpPzkwti1zrXvRelCcv4Tt4nWuzFGuvD8GmFJwRur3FCxiHYDYMaAsQ6EALw_wcB&gbraid=0AAAAAoWc2zecsxpf81V08Ogtivk2wFH18&wbraid=CkAKCAjwjtTNBhBYEjAA_ep-tEvKMZcKbLPxGzVtj1QPKICaJa7i6N8AW-pUreVGk5Msop0aBZhgujq-kIoaApkD&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=1007345&adtype=pla&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22987529219&gbraid=0AAAAAoWc2zecsxpf81V08Ogtivk2wFH18 Plus a few others. I searched Skoda octavia Mk1 breaking. Alasdair

The specific parts that I think would have to come from an octy would be mainly interior etc such as centre consol for gearlever , pedals/master cylinder assembly unless the vw is the same plus hydraulic lines etc. Probably gear linkage cables and not sure on gearbox mount. You could use https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs They have exploded diagrams with part numbers for skoda and VW. It may take a while but you could cross check which part numbers are the same on things you reckon you could take off the vw.

Thats a problem as you would need specific parts for skoda. Is it possible to import an autobox from australia/singapore etc. or are they not available there either. Another option would be to have the autobox reconditioned but depending on whats gone wrong and at what price. Good luck in your search

Reckon you would need a fair few bits starting with pedals and master cylinder plus pipe to slave and you may need a different ECU for the manual box unless the original can be reprogrammed. If you need an ECU then it will have to be coded etc. Drive shafts may be different plus new flywheel, clutch, gear linkage plus centre consol/gearstick. Thats if any of the vw parts fit. Reckon it would be easier and a lot cheaper sourcing a second hand autobox or a MK1 octavia thats manual and use it as a donor car. Daughter converted a classic mini from auto to manual which took a lot of time and effort/cost and thats a car without electronics. Alasdair