Alasdair1

I usually go for the larger engines in cars as I do a bit of towing plus I believe (may be wrong) they dont have to work so hard as the smaller ones to get a car of the superb size and weight going. As previously said the 2.0 tsi is a well proven engine and as long as it has a very good service history its the one I would go for. All my cars have been diesel for years but not doing the mileage anymore and dpf is constantly regen. I miss the 1.9tdi pd with no dpf. Next one will be either the 1.8 or 2.0tsi Alasdair

From memory on my sons MK1 it goes from wheel sensor along rear beam and into car under rear seats then along I think under plastic door base trims into front then through bulk head to ABS unit. I have a feeling there are connections under plastic base/carpet trim at rear doors. Alasdair

Thats a lot of short circuits etc. Might be worth checking if the oil pressure regulator shares an earth with any or all of the others. Alasdair

Did you try 12v accross bulb or use meter. Have had bulbs blow and short out so meter reads ok. Alasdair

Before removing head maybe a compression test. If its down on one or two cylinders then somewhere to start looking. Timing belt on the 1.9tdi wasnt difficult including water pump replacement at same time.(not sure re wpump on 2.0tdi) Got a cheap locking tool set off amazon plus you will probably need triple square spline set. Got this one off amazon for £15 and so far havent broken any. Alasdair

Not sure on the Kodiak but on my Octavia there are two antennas. FM one on roof and DAB one in rear side window. These connectors I think need pushing in and at the same time release tab. and then pull out. Always have trouble with them. Alasdair

Try another key if you have one. It may be that the reader in ignition isnt picking up key or key transponder has failed. You can also try disconnecting battery (make sure its good and charged fully) and leaving for a while reconnect and try again in case its had a blip. Would probably be advised to get it scanned with vcds in case it pings something up and narrows it down for you. If its the imobilser kicking in which it sounds like from your description then it could be key,key reader,cluster etc. Alasdair

Sons was pretty loud although we also just assumed it was normal. Only when I fixed the exhaust we noticed a bad wheel bearing. Sound was covering it perfectly. Alasdair

Think its the same fuse for interior lighting so if its working then doubt its a fuse and as said perhaps switch/wiring Alasdair

If its been damaged then I would reject it as at that age its not a cheap car. May have been repaired without insurance claim/non approved repair shop and without knowing how bad the damage was originally may have underlying problems down the road. Alasdair

My old 1.9tdi was soft and felt a bit vague on the road. It improved a lot when I replaced tyres with better quality and also extra load. Tyres that were on it were I think refered to as comfort tyres by the tyre service. I went for GT radial XL all season as local tyre service had special deal. So far so good. Alasdair

Another thought if fluid level is ok. On my sons Fabia one of the strip fuses was cracked in front of battery. It would randomly put on brake warning/ABS light and rediculously loud bleep. Checked fluid and all was good. Not sure if the MK3 octavia has strip fuses or a combined fuse unit. The strip fuses can hairline crack and cause warning. Almost impossible to see crack until removed. Alasdair

I would remove head and check gasket anyway. You may be lucky and a new one is all thats needed. Could be valve stem seals thats causing oil burn or failing turbo seals. On the 1.9tdi BXE there are cheap kits to lock up engine when replacing timing belt and fairly straight forward to do. On the cam pulley there are three bolts that sometimes need loosened to tweek belt position/timing slightly. Alasdair

They share the same reservoir for clutch and brakes. My master cylinder went and even though you could see fluid in yellow gauze I had to add a fair bit to get it upto level when bleeding. The yellow gauze does come out but its tricky to get hold of. Think there are two reservoirs. One for clutch at front and brake at rear. I assume clutch output is higher than brake. I would add more fluid but if its low its going somewhere. Check calipers/flexi for fluid. It could also be as said master/slave clutch. My clutch master dumped the fluid onto undertray so only noticed when car was lifted and it ran out. If its the slave then it could be in bell housing. Check base of Gbox/bellhousing join for signs of fluid. Alasdair

Meant to add if its a start stop system may need new battery coded. Alasdair

Normally resets itself. For ESP/steering etc turn full lock left and hold for a few secs then full lock right and hold then centre wheel and drive straight at low speed and should reset. It may need a short drive to trigger reset. If that doesnt work then it may need vcds to clear codes but as said should sort itself out. Alasdair

I looked up a 2000 plate on LLL parts and it had as one of the steering racks your part number. Had PR codes listed but I went with the part number as I dont know your car. When I clicked it it came up as superceded. Weird thing is if you type original part into search it comes up nothing found so reckon original is obsolete plus part number ending in BX is not available according to LLL Is it the rack that is leaking or the pipes feeding it. Alasdair

According to google AI the X at the end means remanufactured?? Alasdair

Had a look on LLL parts and the number you posted has been superseded by 1J2422070BX I think for your car but better to put VIN into original manufactur part diagrams to be sure. New one on ebay (chinese but two year waranty??) with BX part number for £157 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/157908807257?_ul=GB&rb_itemId=157908807257&rb_pgeo=GB&var=0&ff=11&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5339059258&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw3ejRBhAdEiwADkqPn58WAtOTkqsZllBFiTC5-spGbI7wPeaHo4qPILMS0GhCwDSJdKvdDRoC6ngQAvD_BwE&gclid=CjwKCAjw3ejRBhAdEiwADkqPn58WAtOTkqsZllBFiTC5-spGbI7wPeaHo4qPILMS0GhCwDSJdKvdDRoC6ngQAvD_BwE&wbraid=CkAKCAjwuuPRBhBiEjAABSsoFfaXGWIQZdF3b-FFl4jUO3tPFPqCF0E-gYaKr3aDbKypC-69eJv55XTwEgsaAvX_&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_Kc8wo2RRZ2a3JMdMy93bfhP&adtype=pla&loc_physical_ms=1007345&loc_interest_ms=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20506529270&gbraid=0AAAAADA7Q_Kc8wo2RRZ2a3JMdMy93bfhP Might help to narrow down search Alasdair

Customer of mine had a few 2wd second hand Yetis and never any problems. They were fairly hard on cars and were used for towing and general work. They bought a second hand 4x4 with supposedly good service history and had major problems with Haldex. They eventually sold it once it had been repaired.(new haldex control unit) and now have a Dacia which so far has been excellent. May have been a one of but unless there is any service history on Haldex I would avoid. I agree thats a high price for a 11 year old car. Also check road tax. My 1.6tdi octavia is only £35 where as my old 1.9tdi was £200. Neither are LEZ compliant. Alasdair

Same here do everything myself if I can. All my cars are old and average garage bill would be more than there worth plus if you do it yourself you know its been done right with no missing washers and everything put back etc. Alasdair

Had one years ago that wasn't leaking but for some reason letting air into system and emptying expansion tank. I assumed HG failure but no exhaust gases and leak down test was good. Hope you get to the bottom of the problem. Alasdair

Hope its fairly easy to get to. Might be worth checking egr cooler one as well. It may be running with no impellers left. Alasdair

Does sound like a water pump failed. Not unknown for the impellers to disintegrate. Only other thing I can think of is a clogged rad or major airlock somewhere. Not sure if the main is electrical or belt driven on yours but it does sound like one or both have failed. Alasdair

Its either broken at join at front or centre clamp has failed. Its too loose to be just a rubber hanger. Think originally they were one piece from front to rear but aftermarket ones are in two sections. Sons did the same but didnt sound over loud as pipe was still in join but clamp had rotted away. Reckon an exhaust company is required if you cant fix it yourself Alasdair