Alasdair1

As you changed master it may be a small amount of air in ABS unit that's not coming out. The fact that you get 'Status Ready / K1 OK / K2 OK / CAN NOT READY' may be that there is a bad connection at port or perhaps the port isnt getting power. Check that the drivers for VCDS are up to date and I assume its a genuine cable. I assume you tried with ignition on and engine running. Might be worth checking terminals in port and also lead plus fuses related to OBD port. As far as I know a MK2 should have Can-bus. Can you scan car for codes? Alasdair

Glad you found the problem an its sorted. Coolant loss can be a nightmare to find. Alasdair

Have a good check of the tyres. My old Seat altea warning used to come on due to a tyre being slightly out of round. I kept resetting and checking but didnt notice tyre at first an assumed it was a sensor but after a few weeks car developed a wobble you felt through seat and one was slightly deformed. I jacked each wheel up and lowered onto a flat board with tyre just touching then spun wheels and found one was about 1cm out of round with a weird twist in it. Expensive day as the tyre service pointed out the age of tyres and said I needed all four as if one had gone the chances are the others may follow. I trust the tyre place. They are decent and have been using them for at least 40 years. Alasdair

Thats a big bill. The chain and kit is around £250 so I don't see how they want £2000 labour? Unless there are skoda only tools involved I would be going elsewhere. Alasdair

Could be a failing bearing/ABS sensor/ABS ring or wiring. From memory the car uses info from ABS sensor to work out if a tyre is flat. Maybe worth getting it scanned in case a fault code is stored or if faulty which wheel/wheel sensor it is Alasdair

The radio is an OEM one so doubt it will be it. I think that message is normally with older cars without CAN. Not sure why as I think yours does unless its an older version or the VCDS needs updated?. I did read that autodetect may not work and you have to choose chassis/engine number manually. I am just learning VCDS so not much help I am afraid but I am sure someone on here will help. Alasdair

Maybe a dirty poor connection but if the pipe was disconnected it may have affected vacuum operation. Hope its one of those one of faults. Alasdair

Have read that the plastic flaps get worn and the motor moves out with its limits hence the codes or it could be gummed up and needs cleaned. Have also read of a repair kit but not sure if its suitable for your engine. Did find this though Darkside Developments2.0 TDI Common Rail Swirl Flap Repair Kit (P2015) - Alumi...Darkside Developments is a UK based diesel tuning company, specialising in VAG (VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda), BMW, MINI & Porsche Diesel VehiclesAt £26.40 Its worth a go if it fits your engine. Lot cheaper than a new unit Alasdair

As mentioned near start of post do you have an aftermarket radio? Some can interfere with OBD connection. As for ABS sensors the only way is to scan car to find out which one unless you replace all four but it could also be a failed sensor ring in bearing or bearing itself. Check the wiring to each sensor and the condition of the connecting plug plus feel for roughness in bearings. Alasdair

Think they are different The smooth has 41mm piston and ribbed has 38mm plus I think the mounting is different as well. The smooth are for 12mm thick discs and the ribbed are for 10mm thick discs. Alasdair

My sons MK1 top mount includes new bearings so I assume they would be new. As said on my sons mk1 and my octavia mk2 there is an arrow on the original to show direction. On the KYB ones I got there was no arrow but I compared with the old one. I had a look on monroe cat but couldnt find struts for the VRS so maybe they fitted standard ones for a MK2 and monroe dont do VRS? Alasdair

I normally go to lll parts and look up the manufacturers diagrams for oe part numbers then when ordering aftermarket and check any cross ref. From memory the top mounts have a specific direction/fitting position. Wonder if there fitted wrong which may be causing the noise. You could see if the garage can give you the part numbers that they fitted and check on Monroe site if they match Alasdair

Did this happen all of a sudden or after replacing a caliper etc. It may be air in the system due to bad master cylinder or when changing something fluid has dropped too low letting air into ABS. If you havent replaced any brake parts or fluid was low I would suspect bad seals on master. Alasdair

I used Apec blue discs and pads on my octavia mk2 as its a fair age. Been on for about a year and seem very good. The whole lot was just over £100 from parts in motion. They also do Apec Black which are supposedly high performance/luxury car at a bit more and Apec Red which are mid range similar to oem. Being using Apec for a while with no problems. Alasdair

When I did mine on a 1.9tdi BXE engine I had to loosen the three bolts in camshaft wheel to get the alignment tools spot on. Wonder if they have loosened on yours as the adjustment is only about one tooth. Not sure what Firstline are like these days but a few years ago my local garage stopped using them as the failure rate of new parts was very high. I would go with Gates if possible. Used them for years and never had an issue. INA are very good as well as SKF and should be a lot better than firstline. Needs looking at as not sure how many teeth need to jump before disaster. Alasdair

Had same on old volvo 940. One of the rear pistons was sticking at a certain point but not seized. New caliper and discs/pads and back to normal. Volvo had two pistons one each side of disc so when braking only one was working and pulling it out of alignment. Not sure on the superb but if a brake shoe is seized in its carrier it will do the same as well as a seized slider pin/pins. Reckon it needs wheels off and check the pads and slider pins plus check there is no drastic run out on discs Alasdair

Not sure re PR codes from vin. Have tried a few places online and no luck. Your lucky you have one code. I have three skodas and the brake codes are all missing including a Seat. You could try https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs and put in the VIN it might narrow it down for you. As far as I know there are two sizes of discs for front if you have TRW calipers. 288mm or 312mm. The other option fitted is Kelsey hayes calipers which have 276mm. Reckon it might be safer measuring. You would only have to take one wheel off. Alasdair

Have you an aftermarket radio. Quite a few folks on here having trouble reading ecu etc. For some reason the after maaret radios affect can-bus and can stop any communication. If your pedal is going straight to floor I would suspect a bad master cylinder thats letting fluid past the seals or a major leak somewhere. Is the brake fluid level ok. Check the rear drums if fitted for signs of fluid at bottom as my sons mk1 wheel cylinders were shot and leaking fluid. Alasdair

It maybe a bad connection or broken wire to bonnet switch or failed bonnet switch itself. I read on a vw forum that you can use vcds to reset it if bonnet switch wont. A bit above my comfort zone at moment but as follows from vw jetta You need to Recode cluster . address 17 07= fourth digit in the coding: 0 = vehicles with fixed service intervals without oil/temp. sender 1 = vehicles with flexible service intervals with oil/temp. sender 2 = vehicles with fixed service intervals with oil/temp. sender 3 = vehicles without service interval display (USA, Canada) So I assume you have to change 07 to one of the above Alasdair

Sorry read it wrong. I think it needs further investigation fairly quickly. Any oil warning lights need to be checked out even if they are random. Could be as said oil too thin (diluted) or partly blocked strainer etc or hopefully bad sensor Alasdair

Just realised the oil light is flashing before ignition which may point to a bad sensor or wiring. As said P242F is restricted dpf and I would get the oil sensor checked ASAP including DPF pressure sensor. Check your airfilter as well. Alasdair

I get P242F as DPF seriously restricted. The oil pressure light may be coming on due to oil being diluted with diesel due to multiple failed regens. Someone on here had same problem and theirs had diesel runaway that luckily stopped when engine was switched off. It would also explain why oil level is slightly high. I wouldnt drive until garage checks condition of oil and if its not regenerating the dpf properly. Could be a bad sensor thats causing failed regen. Alasdair

I would take it back to the garage that changed valve etc as its a repair that didnt cure problem. It could be the charcoal cylinder itself but first try another filler cap. Have read if they don't seal properly can cause same code. Alasdair

Something is definitly not right with c3. If it was the rings etc you should have had an improvement. Reckon HG has gone on c3 and maybe tracked slightly to C4. You could try a pressure leak down test to see if you can hear compressed air leaking or guage drops quickly. Each cylinder at TDC and I think its around 100psi From memory there is some normal air leakage of around 10% but with those readings unless its a valve spring I reckon head has to come off. Another thought before removing head is try some soapy water around inectors etc and look for bubbles when cranking just in case its leaking there but think it would be noticeable with the low pressure readings. Alasdair

My pedal seemed soft and sunk a bit but difficult to tell if it was sinking or just spongy. It didnt feel right. If you used a gunsons kit I would have thought it would have cleared the air unless its stuck in ABS and may need VCDS to bleed properly. Check every one for slight leaks as well as flexi/brake lines etc as a slight leak somewhere will cause the same effect. It may not leak until under pressure. Alasdair