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Alasdair1

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Everything posted by Alasdair1

  1. While your at it check the intercooler isnt full of oil or clogged. Alasdair
  2. Check the other main hoses as well. Had one blow off the intercooler on mine. Car started but wouldnt rev at all. My own fault as I hadnt clipped it back on again properly but it lasted a month before coming free.
  3. Think the BCM and ECU are closely linked and can cause no start if its not connected properly. Alasdair
  4. Reckon as said you should scan it for codes. Got to be something thats caused it. Alasdair
  5. No idea if wire is related. I asked if its been cut and not broken in case its come off something but if it looks cut I doubt its come off anything. With the drivers footwell soaking wondering if its corosion/water in the BCM/connection. Think its in that area. Another point would be whats the condition of battery. Low volts can often cause problems.
  6. Does the wire with the white tape look as though its been cut? Alasdair
  7. Might be power steering fluid is past it or low and has too much moisture in it. Old volvo of mine used to squeel when starting when cold and once warmed up was ok. i changed fluid which was well past it and problem stopped. Still worth getting it scanned to see if its stored any codes. Could be as simple as a low battery.
  8. Could be a stuck EGR valve fully open but reckon best to get it scanned to hopefully pinpoint something. You could look for days and not find out whats causing it. Alasdair
  9. Might be worth scanning it for codes. If its an injector it should have a stored code.
  10. Hopefully its as simple as a cam sensor etc. Think you can check chain for stretch with VCDS. A bit above my comfort zone but read its engine measuring block 93 and should read above -5 anything below ie -6 etc would point to stretched chain. Thats with car upto operating temp. Alasdair
  11. If its a timing issue I would be careful how much you drive it until sure. Hope the other scanner picks up something less serious. Alasdair
  12. Had a quick google and 00022 is coming up as something different. Its a problem with camshaft sensor/wiring/timing/stretched timing chain if fitted which would explain EML. Might be worth getting it scanned with VCDS or a different scanner to make sure. I may be wrong but another scan with a different scanner wouldnt do any harm. Alasdair
  13. It could be a clogged EGR valve but on my 1.9tdibxe there is an EGR cooler that has a small plastic valve that was sticking that caused same code and EML on. Not so easy to get to though. Looks like this Not sure on your engine. EGR valve should come off complete. I cleaned mine by soaking in kerosene, Scrubbed with old toothbrush and then brake cleaner. If you have a vaccum guage check the valve is holding vaccum as well and check any vaccum pipes for damage. Alasdair
  14. Cant see it being an MOT failure unless things have changed. My old Merc vans gears were awful. I was the only one who could find any of them. They were so worn that you had to watch not smack your knuckles off dash when changing but kept passing MOT. Same here still havent had a look but sons now got used to it too. Alasdair
  15. Could be a bad earth somewhere. Check the continuity of the thin wire that I think goes from neg battery terminal to ECU. It may be broken internally. Also check the thin wire that goes to alternator as well. I assume your battery is reading at least 12.5 volts with engine off and check any earths that you can find. Found this for the MK1 earth locations there may be more? behind battery, on strut tower below battery, on side member under centre console, in front of gearstick at base of LH 'C' pillar
  16. I had problems on my sons Fabia with strip fuses near battery. There were two that had hairline invisible cracks that when warm broke contact. Not sure on the Octavia or if they would stop car but worth a look. If VCDS isnt finding any codes its an odd one and may be electrical in some way. It doesnt have an aftermarket alarm/imobilser?
  17. Maybe as said drawing in air somewhere or blocked filter/fuel line. Alasdair
  18. When you say pump is still running I assume its the intank lift pump. It may be running but not pumping once it warms up or down on pressure/drawing in air Alasdair
  19. Does the door open light come on when opening each door. It might be a failed door switch. My old Seat used to try and lock doors continuosly when driving and it was a problem with the circuit board in drivers door lock. Alasdair
  20. Not sure on the Octavia but the fabia has a connection underneath near the bottom of screen wash bottle that connects to pump. From memory its accessible from underneath but may require engine under tray or plastic wheel arch removal. Alasdair
  21. Might be the fuel pump relay thats failing when warm. Have you tried swapping for a known good one. Alasdair
  22. Another fairly cheap sensor is the coolant temp sensor. If its failing then it may cause similar problems although in my case the car wouldnt start when cold. Alasdair
  23. Sounds like something is getting hot and failing. It might be the camshaft sensor. I have read that they can cause problems without causing fault codes. You could also try without fuel cap in case the tank venting system is blocked and causing a vaccum in the fuel line. Happend to me on my old fiat van as the previous owner had put on non vented fuel cap. Alasdair
  24. I think they prize apart but you have to be careful of springs/plastic etc. You could try wd40 as well but if its not repairable then perhaps one from a vehicle dismantler. https://rrr.lt/en/search?q=5J6857496&exact=1 They send to sweden but you may be able to source one locally cheaper.
  25. You could try a hoover to see if it will dislodge/suck up whats in there or compressed air sometimes works.

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