Alasdair1

G12+ should be compatible with G12. I think its newer but backwards compatible. Saying that if yours is brownish in colour it could probably do with a flush and a change anyway. Not sure when your timing belt etc needs changed. If its fairly soon you could get a coolant change at the same time. On my 1.9tdi it requires draining anyway to do the waterpump and belt.

Check the bulbs. Its very unusual for both to fail at the one time but I have had both headlight bulbs blow together so not impossible. I have a vague memory of the side lights not having a fuse on my MK2 Think they are controlled via BCM body control module Black box above pedals. Alasdair

My octavia is the same. I bought a new aftermarket expansion tank for around £15 . Never got round to changing it as the scrape on the prongs worked. Alasdair

Also have found that KYB seem to be painted better and take longer to start rusting. Might as well do the top mounts while you are at it and maybe springs depending on their condition. Alasdair

I have been using KYB with no problems for years. Used them on a wide range of vehicles and so far very happy with the quality and fit plus they seem to last. Not sure who actually makes OEM skoda but have read on here of quite a few genuine skoda shocks that have started misting after only a couple of years. Its funny how the originals last 60-100K but so called genuine parts dont last nearly as long. Alasdair

You would be better going to a breaker. Cant see a new one from a dealer being cheap. Looked into replacing front plastic lenses on my sons MK1 but couldnt find a supplier plus they are glued on. Think there are aftermarket ones available but they may look slightly different? Watch autodoc etc as they will be LHD units. Alasdair

If its from a reputable dealer and they will agree to fix it/give you waranty then fine. If its a private sale I would look for another car unless they offer you a decent discount to cover diagnosis and repair.

Whats the air filter like? Try running it without. Alasdair

May be an airlock somewhere. Could be in the heater matrix Alasdair

Sorry no idea what it would cost. I do all my own mechanics so a bit out of touch re costs but if its a valve stem seal then I assume labour charge will be more than parts. If its a bad piston ring then thats another ballgame. Probably cheaper sourcing a second hand low mileage engine as original would have to be removed and stripped down and rebuilt. Had a broken valve spring years ago and my local goto garage managed to repair it without head removal. If its the stem seals then hopefully they have a special tool that can compress valves in situ and repair. In my casemy local mechanic friend fed soft string through spark plug hole then turned engine over by hand to carefully jam valves so he could compress spring and remove broken one. Good luck and hopefully its something cheap and simple. It might be worth getting them to try and diagnose the problem first. Tell them if its going to cost a fortune to call you first before going ahead with repair.

From memory my folks mk1 1.9tdi had 90amp but it was fairly basic with no extras so current load was fairly low. Check its not a clutch pulley as I think the diesels had them where as far as I know petrols didnt Alasdair

It could also be a leaking valve stem seal. Think you need to do a leak down test to check but that may not pick up a bad stem seal as the valves are closed. From memory blue smoke only at start up from cold after sitting for a good while may point to a failed stem seal. Blue smoke while driving after warm up is usually worn piston rings. Alasdair

I have been using Tayna batteries. Delivery is quick and prices not too bad. The delivery charge is high if your ordering larger batteries over a certain weight though. Last few have been Yuasa and so far no problems over 3 years. Think their around £60 plus £12 delivery

Not sure but there may be a timer/sensor unit for the glow plugs that it connects to. Had them on a few old diesel vans. Think the one on the 1.9tdi looks like this Its usually in the engine compartment somewhere. I think the MK1 were under dash Alasdair

Dont think there should be any oil on sparkplugs at all. Could be a valve stem seal thats worn or bad piston rings. Try a compression test Alasdair

Check the wiring/connector hasnt been pulled by accident. Had similar problems on a volvo and the wiring had been caught by something under seat from the rear. Alasdair

Only time I replace only one is to get through MOT and I dont have time to fit other I always buy two and do it later. Speak to the garage/person who did it and get them to redo it plus make sure they use a new shock and perhaps get other side done as well. I would make sure I saw the one thats got the bent bracket after they fitted a new one just in case they decide to straighten bracket and reuse it. As said new bolts as well but a lot of garages just reuse old ones when they should be replaced. Alasdair

Thats about as bad as I have seen. The reason why I hate EGR systems. Whover came up with the idea of adding diesel exhaust back into engine I reckon wasn't a mechanic. Had an old toyota diesel the same. I cleaned everything up and then blanked EGR. Older engine so got away without telling ECU. It ran fantasticly after cleaning and still got through emisions at MOT. The gunge that came out on mine was like road tar. Alasdair

Did check and they are clean/no corosion and secure. As said still hasnt done it again so hopefully was just a blip. Have a socket set etc in boot plus multimeter just in case it happens again. Alasdair

I always do an annual service on my cars. If its under waranty I reckon you will have to follow skoda/dealer guidelines to preserve the waranty. Check that getting a local garage to do it doesnt invalidate it . My annual mileage is lowish with a few long runs so I changed mine to annual whether its needed or not. Normally done by me just before or after MOT. I suppose I could get away with longer due to lower miles but for the cost of filters and engine oil etc I reckon its worth doing annualy in my case plus doing at MOT time reminds me to get it done. Alasdair

The click click from starter hasn't happened again. Dont know why it happend with good battery but if its working I am happy. Old saying if its not broken dont fix it. Will be taking socket set and multimeter etc with me for a while just in case. Alasdair

Just read on here that crankshaft speed/position sensor can be a cause with rarely a fault code Extract from article 'The G28 sensors are known to suffer heat related failure and not to leave a code which makes them harder to diagnose. With the symptoms mentioned and especially the rev counter behaviour, it makes it certain for me without doing direct diagnosis such as logging the G28 signal. Also, the G28 is just about the only sensor that will cut an engine instantly if you disconnect it when running.' I also read that the car wont start again until cool and it can affect the rev counter. Alasdair

If there are no codes stored then I reckon its maybe a fuel problem or perhaps imobilser kicking in? Could be the high pressure diesel pump. (electrical connection or pump failing). Try it without fuel cap in case vent is clogged and its causing a vaccum. If you don't have VCDS maybe get it scanned and see if it pings anything up that your scanner missed. Its weird its ok after leaving it for a while. Alasdair

My old MK2 estate leaked around the high brake light. I thought it was washer fluid but it was seeping in past the seal. It also used to come in in base of boot near spare wheel as there was a damaged grommet . I dried car and then sat in boot during car wash. Got some really odd looks but found leak. Alasdair

Thanks for the replies. Didn't realise car had stationary limiter. Old octy didnt seem to have one. Thought I had a major ECU prob as need the car for tomorrow. Willreset windows when I get a chance. Thanks again Alasdair