Alasdair1

I agree just swap headlights. There easy to remove and replace as long as the release lever isnt seized like mine was. Keep hold of the old ones in case you need to drive in uk. Alasdair

To be absolutely sure there must be timing marks somewhere. It may not work but if you still have the old distributor there may be a mark where the securing bolt was as long as the new one went in the same position. I did find someone using VCDS to set timing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPZKEZXusLk Not sure if its the same engine as yours but distributor looks similar. Alasdair

Shouldnt cause any probs. A few warning lights like steering etc until you drive around. On my octavia I have to put all windows down and hold for a few secs then up and hold for a few secs to enable one touch up or down. If your car has auto stop/start then it may need a new battery coded. If your just cleaning terminals then its the same battery should be ok. All mine are older without start/stop and I have been informed don't need the battery coded. Alasdair

Maybe a blip in the reduced oil pressure switch or perhaps the switch is failing/wiring problem Alasdair

Disconnect passenger motor. If it still blows then its a wiring short somewhere. If it doesnt then reckon its the motor. Not sure on the Ovtavia but on the Fabia mk1 the drivers window unit controls the passenger side as well. Check the bulb in the door exit light and wiring. It may be the same fuse? Alasdair

Think I used a very light film of copper grease as it was all I had at the time. Had to spend a fair bit of time cleaning up rust etc from grooves in bearing mount etc. Old one came out with a fair bang. Thought I had snapped the bearin tool. Took a fair bit of force to release it but it had been in for nearly 20 years. New one went in fine and has been no prob since. Broke the ABS sensor when removing it but had ordered a spare anyway. You will need a new hub bolt if the bearing doesnt come with one as they are use once and throw away. Remember to tighten/torque bearing hub when car is off the ground. Alasdair

Yep did my sons a while back and didnt hear much of a click but yours looks just like his did. Alasdair

Glad its running well and hopefully the oil will disapear/burn off fairly quickly. If its a new turbo then perhaps an other oil change and filter in the next few months depending on the mileage your doing. Had a turbo blow on an old volvo 940. Never seen so much smoke ever. Filled Lidl car park within about 30 secs. Lucky I noticed it (hard not to) It was dumpng oil into exhaust etc. Weird thing was there was no warning. Turbo seals seemed to fail instantly. My old mechanic friend reccomended an oil change after a few thousand miles as it was a new turbo. Alasdair

It may not be the same but my octavia judders/wobbles at certain points as well. No fault codes or misfires but I think I have narrowed it down to drive shafts/worn cvjoint. It seems to do it more when cornering under acceleration. If I lift my foot of the pedal it disapears. It happens mainly at 40-50mph. Alasdair

Failing injectors can cause misfires and bad pattern/clogged nozzles can cause black sooty smoke and low power plus poor mpg but if the throttle flap isn't moving then I would start there. It may be the wiring to the throttle body? Alasdair

Just wonering if its a failing exhaust sensor? It might be connected to the rich running although I would have expected fault codes EML light. Is there anyway you could get it scanned with VCDS it may well pick up codes a generic scanner misses. I think as well the throttle body flap should be almost closed when car isnt running. Good luck

They are triple square by the look of them. As said maybe the throttle body? but might be bad pattern injectors. Try a tank of supreme diesel and also some injector cleaner as well. The limp mode sounds like my old 1.9tdi. In my case the actuator on the turbo was stiff and caused overboost at higher speeds. I sprayed with oil and manually operated it until it free off. Just before it went into limp mode it made a very slight blow off sound. Alasdair

If you have drained as much as you can then I would put exhaust back on and give the car a really good run. It should eventually burn off once upto a decent temperature. You could also try compressed air first. Wrap a rag round compressed air hose to seal it at one end of exhaust and see if it helps to remove anymore. If the turbo blew it might be worth checking intercooler and clean it as it may well be full of oil as well if it hasnt already been checked Alasdair.

I replaced my drivers side on my old octavia as it had started to fray and MOT advised. I went to local scrap yard and found a non crashed octavia MK2 and salvaged the belt. If your buying second hand its worth seeing the vehicle its coming off to make sure it hasnt been in a major crash. Alasdair

Check it has a DMF some of the MK1 had solid flywheel. My sons petrol has solid but I think from memory my folks old 1.9tdi had DMF. If its a failing DMF then it should be fairly noticeable once gearbox is out. If the flywheel is ok then it might be worth replacing bearing at same time as the gearbox will be out. I replaced the slave cylinder on my sons when I did the clutch as his was starting to leak slightly. Alasdair

It could be as simple as a failed LED or dry joint on circuit board. Not sure how you would test it though. Alasdair

If yours has a DMF then it could very well be flywheel thats causing rattle/shaking. If its a solid flywheel it may be the clutch release bearing or clutch related. As you said it may also be the input shaft bearing. If its any of the above I reckon the Gbox would have to come out to check. Alasdair.

My 1.6tdi fans come on after stopping car. I have been told its probably due to a failed dpf regen. Took it out for a decent run and it stopped doing it. Alasdair

Found this on here. It may be of some help . The most common ones are in the engine compartment. Check that the fuel pump in tank is actually running as well. Think its accesible under rear seats. Check the wirin and connector there to as my sons fabia had worn through. Alasdair

I agree with above. Sounds like a fuel/relay/wiring problem. Pulled this from rostech P0091/000145 - Valve for Fuel Metering (N290): Short to GroundPossible SymptomsMalfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON No start or performance problem(s) Possible CausesWiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Transfer Fuel Pump (G6) -or- Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538) faulty. Transfer Fuel Pump (G6) faulty. See Special Notes Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538) faulty. Possible SolutionsCheck Fuse(s), Wiring and/or Connector(s). Check/Replace Transfer Fuel Pump (G6). See Special Notes Check/Replace Fuel Pump (FP) Control Module (J538).

I would get it scanned again and see if theres any problem with ABS sensors.Hopefully one is failing and causing ASR light to come on. Not sure if the traction control has its own fuse? Check the fuses if it has and their making good contact plus also the strip fuses near battery. They can develop hairline cracks that arent very noticeable.Another thing to check is the bearings. My sons old fabia pinged up ABS fault due to a worn hub bearing.

Might be worth checking voltage at rest and voltage when car running anyway just to check the alternator is charging battery properly. Whats your new problem? Alasdair

If you have a battery charger put it on battery overnight and check voltage across battery in morning and see if it makes a difference. As previously said a year old battery as long as its the correct one shouldnt be the problem but its not unknown to get a battery that fails prematurely. Battery should read voltage aprox as follows Engine running: 13.8−14.5 volts Engine at rest (fully charged): 12.6 -12.8 volts

If it clicks from alternator it may be a poor connection at alternator or bad chassis earth or coroded/dirty battery terminals. Sometimes a connection will fail when it starts to warm up. It may also be a low/failing battery. It just takes one cell to be poor and the battery wont hold a proper charge. enough to start but not being charged enough to restart after a short journey. Check as well that the battery light illuminates at pre ignition and goes off when car is running. Alasdair

G12+ should be compatible with G12. I think its newer but backwards compatible. Saying that if yours is brownish in colour it could probably do with a flush and a change anyway. Not sure when your timing belt etc needs changed. If its fairly soon you could get a coolant change at the same time. On my 1.9tdi it requires draining anyway to do the waterpump and belt.