Alasdair1

If you have had an earth repair I would start there. It may be a loose connection or the wire has broken again plus 40amp is a huge fuse for brake lights are you sure its the right one. They are normally 10-15amp?

Did you get it sorted? Alasdair

As far as I know three wires is a hall effect and should be 5v but as previously said I may be wrong. Alasdair

Good luck. The fact that you tried a different ecu hopefullty it might be its as simple as a broken/damaged wire/connection or perhaps both sensors are bad. How many wires does your crank sensor have? Alasdair

I had it in my head that its 5V but may be wrong. It might be a bad connection or damaged wire from sensor or ecu is supplying wrong voltage. I'm sure someone on here will correct me if I'm wrong. Alasdair

Its a bit of a long shot but check battery as well. If its low then it might not be cranking fast enough. Alasdair

If its cranking and no codes and no tacho movement then it may be a bad connection/cable to crank sensor or perhaps either the crank or cam sensor you replaced is faulty. Check wiring for continuity and connection from the crank sensor first as I have read they can fail/wiring probs and not create code. Alasdair

Does the gearstick actually move or is it solid. If it moves check the cables that go to gear selector on Gbox are still attached etc. Alasdair

I got a cheap one off ebay for my sons fabia and so far so good. Problem with most garages is they just get it from the local motorfactors or dealers and dont have time to shop around. On his it was rivetted on so I had to source special rivets plus buy a bigger rivet gun and drill out old ones. Not sure on the octavia. Not too bad a job on the fabia once I got the old one off as the cables had wrapped themselved around everything. £350 is high but probably about right when you take labour and VAT into the equation. Alasdair

The flood may be a coincidence. Check that the plastic gear selector on top of Gbox isnt seized. Happened on my old Seat and couldnt move gearstick to select gears.

Check fuses in engine bay for blown/looseness and corosion. There are strip fuses in my sons that have failed but the hairline crack is so fine almost impossible to see. Not sure if there is an ECU relay as well Alasdair

Have a look at https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ Pur your reg in and check what their prices are for clutch kit and flywheel. I find Sachs/Luk/Valeo are the best brands. It will give you an idea how much labour they are charging you plus dealers are £100 -£150 perhour plus vat where as my local independant is around £65 plus vat. Alasdair

Thats a fair amount of money . As they arent covering it with warranty I would get it done in a decent independant garage. Got quoted £500 for my sons Fabia clutch which I ended up doing myself as he was going to have to wait three weeks till the garage I sometimes use is always busy. Depending on what Gbox and engine you have I would reckon £500-£600 for parts max and labour on top so £2500 seems high. Alasdair

Both my 1.9tdi are in an octavia and a Seat altea. Both look like theres not enough space to work on them from engine compartment plus as they are both fairly old I reckon snaping bolts may be very possible. Alasdair

I have a couple of cars with the BXE 1.9tdi pd and the egr cooler is right at back of engine. You can see it but looks like a nightmare to get to. Think on mine its exhaust/turbo etc off first and access from underneath. Have heard of large garage bills to replace them. So far mine are ok apart from a plastic valve thats sticking. Hope its one of them thats causing problems. Alasdair

After market radios can interfere with canbus system somehow. Cairus is right in that it has nothing to do with imobilser but it can stop readers connecting to ECU in some cases. I would just disconnect radio completely and try to access ecu again. Might need VCDS to read it. Alasdair

If your not getting white smoke I dont think its the EGR cooler. If your engine oil is fine then its not much coolant at all. It could be a very slight leak in the oil cooler or even just condensation. Reckon change oil cooler and monitor it.

Check the fuses related to the windows plus also check fuses in engine bay. It may be a probem with the comfort control module or Body control module but I think if the imobilser is on it can affect window operation. I remember reading about it when my imobilser got stuck on as my windows wouldnt work either including keys. According to Ai which I reckon is not that reliable and cant guarantee its correct is as follows ... Recoding or replacing a comfort control module (CCM/BCM) during an instrument cluster change in Volkswagen/Audi group vehicles requires specialized diagnostic software, typically VCDS (VAG-COM Diagnostic System), to transfer coding, synchronize keys, and adapt the immobilizer. Because the immobilizer data is shared between the cluster and the CCM, failing to match them can prevent the car from starting. Its now out of my depth so maybe a VAG specialist or autosparky or someone on here who nows what they are talking about. Hopefully removing radio will allow you to get further Alasdair

Not sure on the windows. Do you have an aftermarket radio in car. They can stop scanners reading ECU for some reason. If you do unplug it completey and try again. When my Seat imobilser stuck on the guy from the AA could read some parts but couldnt access ECU or imobiliser. Probably a security thing. Alasdair

Reckon the oil cooler first as fairly easy to get to. Think to check you can pressurise it with air and put in a bucket of water and look for bubbles. It would be the first choice if your getting coolant into oil apart from the HG. The EGR cooler I think would leak coolant into intake/egr so would probably cause some white smoke and cant see how it would mix with oil unless it was a reasonable amount of coolant. May be wrong. Hope its the oil cooler

I remember reading that one and if I remember the clutch/flywheel had no heat marks on it and clutch had completley disintegrated. With the lack of heat marks it looked like a faulty clutch plate. If yours is the same I would point that out and see what they say. If it had been slipped badly before you got the car there should be heat marks on plate. Good luck Alasdair

If its the clutch depending on how its failed the chances are they will say they wont cover it. At 19k if its failed you could argue its a manufacture deffect but unless the clutch manufacturer or skoda have had previous problems I doubt you will have any luck. Best case scenario I reckon would be that they offer to pay for parts and you pay the labour. Try going down the line of its only done 19k so shouldnt have failed first. Alasdair

EGR cooler or oil cooler perhaps. If your not losing much coolant it may be a very small leak in the oil cooler.

Deffo battery. Mine was the same. Just on 12v but not enough power to start car. Loads of clicking and christmas tree dash. Chec its charging ok when you replace battery. 12V is only about 25% charge and probably has no reserve. I suspect a bad cell. Alasdair

There fairly easy to swap over so recon with new shocks and springs its got to be better. Alasdair