Alasdair1

Same here done a fair few over the years and only now have the open sockets in my tool box. Hope I wont need them if you know what I mean. Last one had to cut the main strut nut off as it was so tight the allen key centre rounded. Alasdair

Not sure still havent got round to looking at his as weather is awful. His is fine for gear change but wont return to middle as spring has broken. You could try resetting gear cables to see if it makes any difference first. Alasdair

Just did a couple on the front of my sons mk1. Found a tiny smear of silicone grease on bushes and subframe made the job a lot easier. Alasdair

If the radio doesnt work with ignition off it may need the ignition on so it gets power to get the timer to countdown. Alasdair

Meant add disconnect battery neg for 15-20mins then reattach before the above procedure. Alasdair

Think it may need VCDS or OBD2 to do it but came accross this on a VW forum. Not sure if it will work on yours but cant see the harm in trying. 1. Turn the key to the "ON" position, BUT DO NOT START THE CAR! 2. Leave the key in the "ON" position for 3 minutes WITHOUT TOUCHING ANYTHING. 3. After 3 minutes, turn key to the "OFF" position, then start the car as normal. May have to be done with bonnet fully open. Alasdair

Another thought might be did you code/calibrate the throttle body after replacing actuator? Not sure but think you need to use VCDS to tell the ECU the position etc. If its not coded then it may lead to rough idling and stalling. Alasdair

I would get it scanned with vcds and see if there are any random codes stored. It does sound electrical but could be fuel related. Check the strip fuses near battery compartment. If there individual check for hair line cracks/corosion etc. It could also be a failing relay for fuel pump etc. Alasdair

Reckon it would be better to upgrade to a VRS clutch/heavy duty if its possible. 350NM is fairly high. I would leave it until it slips and then upgrade it. Depending on how old the clutch is it may happen fairly quickly. Alasdair

You could try a leak down test on each cylinder. It might help pinpoint where its gone. It should tell if the head gasket is failing but dont think it can check EGR cooler. If the EGR cooler is new then I doubt its the problem. Alasdair

If the car is running well and no warnings I would leave alone. You could try some EGR fuel cleaner additive. Alasdair

On my sons MK1 it was just the strip fuse in front of battery that caused ABS/BRAKE warning. On his they are individual and can develop hair line cracks that are almost impossible to see. New fuse and problem cured. Alasdair

Theres a reversing light switch on the gearbox which may have failed or perhaps wiring to it. Think its lower down at front of Gbox accessible from below. I would check it for continuity. Alasdair

On my sons fabia theres a connector at door pillar. Not sure on Octava but if its there you could try and disconnect connector at door pillar and check wire continuity back to window controller. Not sure if it might be the window controller thats failed. As said sons fabia one did and no windows etc on passenger side until Breezy Pete fixed it Alasdair

Meant to add are the windows working on passenger side front and rear Alasdair

As far as I am aware the main area for wire breaks is where they flex as it come through door pillar. Inside the door it may be a bad connector/water ingress but so far I havent come accross any broken wire issues inside a door unless its been got to already and not clipped back in place. If its like the fabia it may be related to window control/door system. Maybe Breezy Pete can help. He repaired my sons window controler previously. No probems since. Hopefuly a vcds scan may pin point something. Alasdair

Not sure on Octavia but have you checked drivers side door pillar wiring as well. On my sons fabia the drivers side supplies/controls passenger side window etc. As for the rear wiper I have had two Octavia mk2 and a Seat altea and have had to replace wiper motor three times so far. They seem to be prone to getting water ingress and seizing. Alasdair

If skoda did the timing belt they would have used a decent OEM one so should be perfectly ok for a long time. The belt change interval has increased a lot with lots of different explanations. The idea of 120-140k scares me especially if I dont know what make of belt was used so personally I change mine every 6 years/60,000. As I have Octavia I do the waterpump at same time.

I do my own on my Octavia and other cars but have a tripple set of spring compressors that you can lock in place. Last time I added a couple of older style ones just in case. Still scary as ****. If you can get the strut off my local garage used to swap the springs over for a small donation to their lunch fund. They have the proper compressor much safer tool. Main problem I found was the top mount securing bolts tend to seize over time and can break the welded encapsulated nuts so just turn. Have had to cut them off a few times Give them a good spray with releasol from the underside of the suspension turret for a few days beforehand. I used a small cold chisel to gently open gap between strut and hub. If I remember correctly some of the bolts are use once and throw away. You may need a special open socket to remove shock top bolt so you can stop it turning

Not sure on the quality but got to be easier plus ready to underseal and fit. Maybe someone on here can vouch for their quality etc. I was pleasantly surprised as well £140 is a bargain if its upto scratch Alasdair

Used to drive my old octavia with front fog lights on on dark roads especially when no white lines at side until I upgraded bulbs to phillips extreme vision. Still as said not brilliant but better. Alasdair

PCD and CB are the same. Offset is 8mm difference so think should be ok for car +/- 10mm is the rule I go by but only real way is to check by trying in case it rubs at full lock or when hitting speedbumps . Both have 17" wheels as options. Alasdair

My sons are the same on his mk1 although not bi=halogen. Think its just the way they are. I fitted extra bright bulbs which did make a difference but they are still poor. My Octavia arent bad but could be a lot better. Same as my mates fairly new vw transporter. He got them upgraded but still not that great. Maybe its a VAG thing. Daughters volvo on the otherhand would illuminate a football pitch. Might be worth getting alignment done. His were pretty low but MOT guy tweeked them for him. Alasdair

I would just fit new one. Probably a lot easier than getting a second hand one off plus fitting new bushes etc. Had a look on IM axles and £140 for mk2 fabia. My sons is getting pretty poor as well. Thanks to DieselMonte for link. Alasdair

Still have the glue in my cars as well as the spare just in case I get flat on busy road to get me out of there quick. Your right though in the past I have used it and works to a point but not for very long plus tyre service hates it. Hope you enjoy new car Alasdair