Alasdair1

I used to go out with mechanic at garage to show them the problem. Once a decent mechanic with loads of experience gets the problem its a lot easier to explain to them whats happening plus easier for them to diagnose. Hopefully they will get to the bottom of it for you. Alasdair

A lot of garages do rely on diagnostics. My old one (sadly retired) took cars out for a spin as well as scanning. He always said theres still a lot of mechanical bits on a car that scanners cant check plus you get a better idea of what might be wrong especially if its a sporadic fault with no codes. Hope they send a decent mechanic out with it. Alasdair

Glad you solved problem. I have seen a few diesel cars with rad cover. Used to have one on my old landrover as it took about 45mins plus to reach temp when cold in winter. Main reason was non electric fan Alasdair

Its a bigger job but it may be worth removing turbo and cleaning/inspecting on bench or source a decent second hand one. I would try some turbo fin cleaner plus super diesel first and see if it improves.

If it doesnt improve with the radio disconnected .you said its also poor in starting it might be worth trying a new or known good battery. If theres low voltage then it can cause all manner of problems especially random dash warning lights plus if the starter motor is running slower its a lot more difficult to start a diesel as they need a high crank speed. Maybe the battery you have was on its last legs and by going flat it finished it?? Alasdair

I used to get a knock from I think was front brake pads. They were fairly worn and I think were binding/moving slightly. Fine when going forward but in reverse seemed to catch then clunk and move slightly. Seems to have gone now that I replaced them including new discs

I agree with checking the filter. I think its a cartridge one on yours. There not expensive and I reckon can be changed without draining oil. It could be that its failed or clogged. Wonder if it was actually changed at last oil change or the garage used a cheap one? Alasdair

I would remove piggy back and see if it makes any difference then you will know if its affecting car. The fact it wont rev past 3000 but no fault codes is odd unless it has a stationary limiter like my Octavia. If it were gloplugs then I would assume it would have a code Are both your brake lights working as blown bulbs or bad switch I think can cause this. Not sure if the brake switch is a single switch or has two switches. One for lights and the other to tell ECU brakes are on? I have read that certain aftermarket radios can cause problems scanning car. Alasdair

I know what you mean re that grommet. Glad you found the cause though. I took the stay that stops the door from opening too far off to get door opened a little more to give me a bit more space. Still tricky but managed it. Alasdair

If the drivers side front is dry I would look at the seals of the rear door or perhaps seals around window. Mine used to leak due to the window seals leaking and also the protective plastic inner door liner becoming unattached. Check theres no rubber grommets in floor etc that are missing under carpet etc as well. Alasdair

Not sure but did read that its important not to use on alluminium compressor side as it tends to eat it. Think you can access via EGR pipe/down pipe but mine had an EGR cooler in the way and everything else!! so didnt want to risk it. If its a turbo problem I thought mine had stuck fins as it would go into limp mode but it was a sticking actuator that was causing over boost. Mine was a 1.9tdi bxe. If its stuck fins you could try some forte turbo cleaner additive and run it on a few tanks of supreme diesel to see if it makes a difference. Alasdair

My 1.6tdi 12 plate usd to drain battery when sitting for about a week. No kessy but reckon the alarm was gradually draining it. I fitted a new battery and havent had the problem so far. (will find out over xmas as car wont be getting used). Reckon my battery was on its last legs due to colder weather. Not sure what the drain is with kessy on your car although have been reading recently articles advising keyless owners to keep as you do in a faraday box for security reasons especially fords for some reason if the cars parked in range of keys. Alasdair

I would as said get in touch with the garage and get them to check it out. It may be that its a heavier duty clutch and its stiffer but they may be able to advise/help Alasdair

That looks like my soninlaw vw caddy. As said I put it into neutral at gearstick end and then reset the cables etc. Found this on a VW UP forum. Gbox without locking pin. Should be the same or similar procedure. Make sure the cast weigted lever is secure. My soninlaws caddy was worn and loose so 1st and second gear were awkward to change

Doubt it would cover clutch etc but worth checking anyway. Some plans cover more than others depending on how new the car is or how much you are paying. Alasdair

I believe you make sure its in neutral and then follow the process of locking gearstick and removing reattaching cable ends. Worked on my son in laws caddy as his had no locking pin either. If that doesnt make a difference it may be a clutch/slave problem or perhaps a small amount of air in system. Make sure the plastic selector that the cables attach to isnt seizing either and is moving freely. Alasdair

Depends on the warranty you have been given and how long you have had the car. Does sound like a worn release bearing. At 53k I doubt it would be the DMF or clutch itself unless its like my sons mk1 fabia that although had very low mileage I reckon previous owner was elderly and prone to high revs and slipping clutch when taking off as it failed without warning at 60k with nothing left of clutch disk. I would monitor it till next service and if its getting worse get it looked at then its Gbox out and as said while your at it a new clutch, Hopefully DMF is good plus fit a new slave cylinder to be on the safe side. Alasdair

Friend is on his second one. First was diesel which was pretty good but then he got the 2.0 tsi petrol tuned to 270bhp. Had a shot a while baack and its very fast in fact too fast for me as I am used to 1.6tdi but seriously fun car to drive. Holds road like glue and really shifts when you floor it. Alasdair

Could be as said its new and compared to old one is heavier/stiff due to spring plate being stronger. It may just need time to bed in properly. It might be an idea to give the garage who did it a quick call and get them to check it out. Maybe a problem with master/slave cylinder if they werent changed or old clutch fluid. If they replaced the DMF was it a solid conversion as they can be stiffer. Last LUK clutch kit I bought had sachs clutch in box. Alasdair

Wondering if the oil pressure sensor is failing? or perhaps a bad connector. Seems very odd that there are no fault codes plus warning has disapeared. Hopefully just a coincidence or blip. Alasdair

I think the pressure regulator is part of the high pressure fuel pump on the 1.0tsi. On earlier engines it is separate. On my sons fabia 1.2 I am pretty sure its part of the fuel filter. Not sure how to check. May need specialist equipment to check pressure while running VCDS. Alasdair

Is the oil pressure message still there when car is running. If it has gone off then hopefully either a blip or faulty oil pressure sensor. Seems odd there are no stored codes? Oil from the video looks pretty new and clean.

Maybe the fuel pressure regulator if the kamiq has one thats either too low or high and is pinging up code? Alasdair

I suppose it will depend on how long you manage to keep it in good condition. Eventually it will hopefully be a classic plus even if it never becomes a classic its a fast fun car so worth having anyway. Alasdair

When you do the timing belt and water pump I couldnt find a coolant drain plug in engine. Drained as much as I could from bottom rad hose but be prepared for coolant in engine to drop out when removing pump. You are as well renewing coolant at same time. If your coolant looks poor then maybe a coolant flush before hand before you do the pump/belt. If it hasnt been done I would change oil plus filter and inspect air filter at same time. The fuel filter can be changed at a later date if needed and I never changed the Gbox oil on mine and its done 140k and no probs. Alasdair