Alasdair1

Had a thought. Just replaced master cylinder on car and over the years vw/skoda changed part design. The main part number was the same but the last letter changed every update It started with A and then B,C and ended up with F. Wonder if they have changed them and 3C0122157FB has become 3C0122157FC. Alasdair

Not sure re wheel arches but check measurment to suspension strut. Had a people carrier with 18" aftermarket wheels which didn't hit arches but had to drop tyre profile to just miss bottom of strut/spring. Wasnt much but went from 225/50/18 to 225/45/18 extra load. Have a look at https://www.wheelfitment.eu/ it lists the kodiak as having 19" wheels as an option and tyre sizes Alasdair

Glad your getting somewhere. Alasdair

Might be a worn universal joint in column or play in steering rods/ball joints that MOT missed. If you sit in car stationary and look at front wheel when turning slightly how much does the steering wheel turn before wheels move. Alasdair

Was the hardware number on the old ECU an exact match for the new one. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

I take it it was the same problem with old ecu. If so wonder if the problem has been copied to new one as in a software issue/corrupted data on the original. May need special diagnostic tools to check. I take it there is no sign of imobilser active symbol on dash when cranking and is it there pre ignition? just in case bulb/led has failed. Alasdair

Does sound like an ecu problem. If the ecu is getting power but not puting out a signal it may have failed internally unless its a wiring isssue. Not sure if they are repairable or a new one is available and old one could be copied to it or perhaps a second had one but it would need to be programmed with data on the original Alasdair

Wonder if silicone hoses would do. They bend a lot better than rubber. Alasdair

Might be an over sensitive gauge. Can you use VCDS to check the actual temp and compare with gauge. Mine drops slightly in really cold weather but normally dont notice when heaters are on. On mine which is diesel I think there is an auxiliary heater for cabin. Wonder if its a problem with it somehow if you have one. Alasdair

The new thermostat. Was it the correct one. I have heard of different ones for cold or hot climate?

Saw a you tube vid where they used internal bending springs to bend hoses to stop them kinking the heat gun and left to cool https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=br2zctTF2uQ Have a look on lll parts in the original manufacturer diagrams to see if you can find a part number.

Funny was just thinking on how you were getting on. Glad its going to plan. Alasdair.

All my spouts are missing from cans but made one up using a 1 litre coke bottle with base cut off and a length of garden hose as funnel I had wasnt long enough. Pushed hose into bottle and taped the hose to bottle. The hose will push past the antisyphon flap. Alasdair

An after thought might be the earth to coil packs. When you checked voltage to them did you check the continuity of earth or use engine block as -ve.

If you have had a new ecu wonder if its an imobilser problem? Had one stick on on my old seat diesel. On diesel they start and then stop but on petrol I think they just don't start. Not exactly sure how to check. There may be a relay for the ECU that has failed as well. Alasdair

On the front caliper the fact that when you tapped it it released it may be that the piston is sticking in your front caliper or the slider pins are seizing/seized. Too many garages use copper grease instead of silicone grease on the slider pins and copper grease eventually dries and seizes them plus wrecks rubber gators. If its was ABS related then I would have thought both front calipers would be affected. If you have discs on the rear the lever that operates the handbrake on mine is prone to seizing on. Have had two now that the rear brake was binding due to handbrake not releasing properly. If it was a problem with ABS I reckon it would have shown ABS warning light or at least stored a fault code. I would get someone to scan with vcds to check. If its going to a garage I would get them to strip down and check/clean and relubricate calipers. Alasdair

Read that if someone puts pressure on tailgate from outside and try to open it with button either on fob or inside car it can work. Alasdair

I would see if the local garage could scan it if possible and it might ping something up. If its sitting for long periods then as its an older car I would expect some smoke due perhaps to condensation or oil leaking down into pistons while sitting. All my cars are fairly old and create a bit of smoke if I haven't run them for a while which clears once driven a few miles plus unleaded petrol if it is a petrol car will absorb moisture over time due to the ethanol being hygroscopic. I wouldn't bother replacing anything until the local garage has scanned it. There are too many folks out there that spend money on a fault without knowing exactly where the fault is. From memory to reset ECU on older cars you can disconnect battery touch terminals together and leave for an hour or so,reconnect battery and it should reboot the system. Wether it would clear codes I am not sure.

Whish mine was still on the road. Have an Octavia and a Seat with same engine and both around 140k I bought them at around 80k and never had any problem with them. Alas rust killed both cars but mechanicaly they are still spot on Keeping them for parts. Excellent MPG (60-70plus) and go like a train when you want them to plus no DPF to worry about and plenty torque for towing. I did around 8000 miles a year so just serviced annually. Alasdair

Reckon Sachs will be good. From experience there master cylinders and clutches etc are excellent and generally sachs get a good name for aftermarket parts. Alasdair

I used a small cold chisel to open strut base to remove from knuckle. I also did the spring replacement myself. Its a job I hate doing and might be worth asking local garage to swap top mounts if you remove struts they will have a safe! spring compressor and probably wouldnt charge you too much. Check condition of struts as well as last thing you want to do is to repeat job if one starts leaking etc. Alasdair

Yes don,t do anything before speaking to them. I would tell them that the keys were stolen/cloned and someone is accessing car. They will probably have an approved auto locksmith that they use and if you do anything yourself will probably not pay out. Might be worth explaining situation to them. As far as I know cloning keys and accessing a vehicle without permission and causing damage are all criminal offences and the police should do something. Hope you get it sorted. Alasdair

Not sure but in the side compartments on my estate I have a couple of hiviz vests, can of tyre seal and a length of pipe that fits onto stupidly short wheel wrench to make it easier to remove nuts plus a length of decent tow rope, a pack of cable ties and a couple of rolls of insulating tape,12v air pump and a decent torch. A fire extinguisher is next on list plus I have to replace my first aid kit as its well out of date. On my old octavia there was a multi cd changer unit in the left hand one. Reckon put whatever you think will be useful. I reccomend the hi-viz, cable ties and insulating tape. Alasdair

Clutch pedal went to floor and master cylinder leaking. Had already done one on my old 1.9tdi so thought no problem. I was wrong. Access is a nightmare due to DPF and pipes. You can see it but not get to it easily at all either from above or below. Inside car half lower dash to be removed to get to pedal including door threshhold etc. Inside engine bay had to remove heat shield from DPF to get a few more mm space and then work round what looks like a fire blanket clipped to pipes. Eventually got to master cylinder and managed eventually to remove clutch line. Putting it back is another thing altogether. You cant drop pipe low enough to get it back into master. Tried pushing and lost the rubber seal into engine bay. Replaced seal and had to loosen pedal again to get enough play to get the pipe in. As for the sensor wiring it was a nightmare to get plug out and back in again. Then battery/air box etc removed to bleed system which took a while to get all air out. Whoever design it this way has obviously never worked on a car and should be out of a job. Anyway rant over. Car back together and have a clutch again and so far no leaks . As said in title get a garage to do it. Alasdair

All sorted. Raided my old Fiat van and cut out a section of vac hose. Alasdair