Alasdair1

Grey blue smoke is normally oil burning but if you have just changed turbo it might be residual thats burning off. On the other hand if the old turbo seals had failed and it was dumping oil into cat then it could very well be a clogged/damaged cat. Had similar probs with a clogged DPF but the PD dont have one. Might be worth a compression check to see if any cylinders are down on compression just in case the HG has gone. As for the cat I havent had any luck in the past with the cleaner additives and ended up replacing it when they got blocked/damaged. Mine stunk of rotten eggs on my old octavia. Turbo had failed and filled intercooler with oil. Not much smoke when idling but if it was idling for a while when you took off it filled the road with blue grey smoke. Got so bad I had to make sure when I parked I could drive straight on as I couldn't see to reverse. Had no engine light but was down on power like limp mode A random and probably not thought is the timing might have jumped a tooth? When was the belt changed last? Alasdair

On my MK2 the central locking does drivers door and requires a second and sometime third press of fob to open boot. Just wondering if yours is the same? Alasdair

I assume if it was a short that was losing the 9volts it would blow the fuse. Might be worth checking the fuses arent loose or coroded as well . As said under no load even one strand of wire would read 12v.

Did read somewhere re resetting steering torque sensor and also steering angle sensor but I think it required VCDS. Not sure how to do it but someone on here may shed some light on it Alasdair

Try https://tiresize.com/comparison/ The black rims tyres are wider by 1.2" and they are 0.5" taller. It will also depend on the offset of the black rims. You could try fitting them and take a careful test drive. I assume they are the same centre bore and PCD Alasdair

May be low voltage due to a bad connection with some corosion or perhaps a poor earth. If theres 3volt there the wire I assume is still intact . Alasdair

Many thanks will have a good look. Its split at every connection. I did tape it up but not getting a decent seal. Car pinged up EML Read codes with a cheap reader and reset and so far hasn't returned. Not sure if they are related 16825 EVAP emission control sys incorrect flow sporadic 16490 Manifold pressure sensor G71/F96 implausible signal sporadic 16891 Idle control system rpm higher than expected sporadic Checked all pipes and they seem fine but servo pipe not good. Taped it up again and so far so good but needs replaced. Thanks again Alasdair

Hi there been trying to find a part number for the rigid plastic hose from brake servo to manifold including non return valve. Does anyone know the part number or an equivalent flexible hose as mine is completey gone. Its an 06 plate fabia mk1 1.2HTP. RHD Thanks Alasdair

Have been using Parts in Motion. https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ Have found their prices excellent and also normally delivery within 48 hrs with me. Check that there arent any OEM stickers left on the front shocks etc Alasdair

Thanks for the above. Reckon its 20.7 but as said difficult to measure as most paint missing and pretty rusty. May have to bit the bullet and remove bushing first and hopefully its not rusty underneath bushes so I can get an accurate measurement. Another option would be to replace the roll bar as its getting past it and just go for the 21.7 unless there is a difference in bars. Alasdair

Hi there. My rear antiroll bar bushes are shot and I need new ones. Problem is the PR code for the size is missing on my sticker. The bar itself is very rusty with flaky thick paint. I have tried to measure it but not sure as said rusty and thick flaking paint so could be 21mm without paint or or 22mm with??. Anyone have any idea which size I need. Its a 12 plate 1.6tdi estate. Alasdair

Perhaps the original parts fitted were very good but I am finding that the parts that skoda supply as so called Skoda OEM don't last nearly as long as the originals. Front shocks on my old Octavia were replaced with genuine Skoda just before I bought it and they started leaking after 2 years as well as ball joints failing in the same time. The originals managed to last 10 years and 100k Alasdair

Not sure but might be pulleys. I would remove belt and check for play/roughness. It may be a failing water pump as well but the pulleys/belt would be the easiest to start with. Sounds more of a knock than a rattle Alasdair

Happened to my mum. AA came and used an air wedge to open top of door slightly to get a rod to unlock the car from inside by hitting button. You could also try and see if you can hit the window down button as well as the keys are in the ignition so windows should work. Door top needed a slight pull to get it to seal properly again. Not sure if its possible to force window down enough to gain access to buttons on door. Alasdair

Double check the strip fuses for hairline cracks as well as getting it scanned. The crack on my sons was almost invisible until I removed fuse and it broke in two. Cant remember which one but there in front of battery, Alasdair

Sons 1.2 fabia did this and it was a crack in the strip fuse in front of battery. Would start and run for a while then beep and warning lights. His had ABS and brake warning light but not the EPS if I remember. Car seemed fine to drive. Restart and it was ok sometimes then beep again and lights with no stored fault codes. Crack was so fine you could hardley see it. Alasdair

Back to checking pipes it is then. Good luck Alasdair

If you cant find any leaks in pipes it might be worth changing MAP anyway as it pinged up a fault code previously. At least you would know its not the MAP or MAF. Alasdair

I would get it read for fault codes to see what comes up plus as said check pipes. I once removed and replaced pipes but one didn;t seal properly and my old fabia 1.9tdi and it ran like S##t until I found the culpriit also when was airfilter changed. Might be worth running it without one for a short time to check its not choked. Alasdair

Have read that if the brake light switch fails it can do this. Check the brake lights are working. Alasdair

Had one on an old van that did the same plus wouldn't return to straight steering. Ran it for a good while before the garage could fix and it was fine but first check that the spring isn't actually broken and your missing an end. Have had that before and spring was catching as it wasn;t seated properly and causing a clunk at full lock. Alasdair

Yes use a flat blade screwdriver to remove clips and pull off ball joint. Alasdair

Hope so. Hopefully its just a damaged wire or pulled/dodgy connector. Alasdair

Try https://brakeparts.co.uk Have found them pretty good at getting less common calipers and discs. Alasdair

Not sure if it helps but my sons 1.2 htp had same problems getting through last MOT re emissions. MOT guy noticed a very slight leak in centre exhaust joint.(my fault as I hadn't tightned it properly after fitting a new front section. He sealed it and tightened it and emissions were then good. It was a tiny leak but obviously enough to affect emissions. He reckond that the engine may be sensitive to the wrong back pressure but couldn't understand why such a small leak would make a difference. Alasdair