Alasdair1

On my sons MK1 I got to the tank through the wheel arch. The valve/pump is at the bottom so managed to remove it fairly easy without removing bumper. I think haynes did mention you have to remove bumper if replacing tank but I found I could get to pump and replace wihout removing . Haynes tend to give you full dismantling info but quite often you can work around it and remove less. From memory I think a new pump with valve was £12 from amazon. Alasdair

My 1.6tdi octavia takes about 20-30 mins to reach OP temp(90degrees) on a fairly slow drive into town at at the moment -2c . My old 1.9tdi took about an hour and in real cold weather never reached 90. I was lucky to get 70 degrees as the thermostat was bad no matter howw long I drove for. It will depend on driving style/revs etc but I reckon if its not reaching 90 degrees in about 20/30 mins of normal driving the thermostat may need replacing. Alasdair

If the pump is working for the front then its ok but it may be the unit that splits between rear and front The pumps are not expensive and on my sons MK1 someone had had a go with silcone sealant to stop it leaking. His rear was similar and didnt work at all but when I replaced pump it was ok. As far as I know the pump works by changing direction depending on which screen is selected. I assume the motor is supplied with reverse polarity for the rear. I think there are flaps in the splitter unit that stop the flow to the screen you dont want to wash which may be stuck. You could try a +v/-v 12v feed direct to the pump and then reverse polarity it and see if both work. Alasdair

Its normally under car near rear wheel on passenger side attached to chassis. If its the same as my sons its a round metal unit with pipes to and from. Think its in a plastic bracket. Alasdair

Ah I see your problem. Maybe see if you can speak to a mechanic at skoda/vag dealer. They must have come accross this problem before or perhaps there is a skoda tool for the job. Did find a draper extension set but not sure if it would fit either or be of any use. They always seem to put things in awkward places. On my 1.6tdi I cant get the oil filter out without having to disconnect some wiring and a stainless pipe. Draper 94269

I picked up a cheap set on Amazon with a long flexible hose. The one I got was for an ancient forklift/LPG 1969 but I think there was a diesel version as well. It worked well. Dont know how accurate it actually is but I was checking all cylinders were roughly the same. These are the diesel versions https://www.amazon.co.uk/VEVOR-Compression-Cylinder-Cylinders-Equipment/dp/B0CGZNMP64/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.BhK4KOjSmPMlySN5CyyeRCveIlza_Efppbnk0KnR7GsksieCu4vnq2kLGSahWuXxX_zzKiAOzdRfi1KbdCFZKwtkXEWouCVjGsiOLZT-bxOLwmJiv_2Pg56dsj1G250KeOBh82gmumKz7wBelvJmVUglFhsQQBbihZPRXy4lIFZBhk_uuMwoR_PcaORBQn8uMPTIqM2OT4aO8Qc9ciFvY04vBI3bR8ghCJn0jD8t4NI6gQG9bkhzjiZWOktZ2y6WfZe2MkJHSXgPIO8bRYqpIMjfN36wAPnOtRRIlOFiE40.LYUPqhJHgNBog7PkUkPwonW9ZC1qkynJY-npeeaPp0Y&dib_tag=se&keywords=VEVOR%2BDiesel%2BEngine%2BCompression%2BTester%2C%2B18%2Bpcs%2BCylinder%2BPressure%2BTest%2BTool%2BKit%2C&qid=1764437749&sr=8-1-spons&aref=RewQXPu6YP&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 There is another that looks like it has a 90 degree bend https://www.amazon.co.uk/Diesel-Engine-Compression-Automotive-PSI0737123870516/dp/B07FRHSZ2T/ref=sr_1_17?crid=29S6SE3TY1QOJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ZmMp6dljXtNjimxK20pIYnwIcsucOrLTDVyUTLgHxEsEOqkMgtQDbxnq3_5JiG_K9FCuc6-AR8s30PJq4T57w9mNE01CtQ97YCCobB13B7H92338e0AIG87I32tB_IA6l5KNJmX802HPpt5aVvleiEwO5ne7TmKC-Sx_T37_4kgsHxpK48Vb3zjqxd8ngHFqK6OBnJ3Pf62V7iCGK4kSZ71pQyfi6LZ01Efa77uorA_KLqj-E7dJS1ahnSn7WXrEwKGkwHywEwJGnqic-D9JtQCbcZWRU5yxn1UpHBttYfI.xcPbt9yVDJ6i-zs8qTTBm_aITNPBH1996GADhqe3z5c&dib_tag=se&keywords=Diesel+Engine+Compression+Tester%2C+18+pcs+Cylinder+Pressure+Test+Tool+Kit%2C&qid=1764437873&sprefix=diesel+engine+compression+tester+18+pcs+cylinder+pressure+test+tool+kit+%2Caps%2C973&sr=8-17 Sorry about the length of the above links. Cant work out how to make them shorter Alasdair

I think your correct re centre bolt but from memory from reading an article in case I had to replace my sons when doing clutch I think theres a spring behind it which makes it quite difficult to replace when gearbox is in car as you have to compress the spring at the same time as replacing bolt. I may be wrong on this but someone on here will know. Meant to add 300k is impressive on a fabia even the 1.9tdi! Alasdair

Could very well be the pump or the connector or switch. Best option would be to get someone else to operate switch and check your getting power to the pump. Think its fitted to the screenwash tank at bottom. I replaced mine as it had started to leak and tank used to empty itself over night. From memory I think its behind the passenger side plastic wheel arch protector Alasdair

May need the heater flaps adjusted/calibrated. On my octavia its as follows Turn on the ignition, press and hold both the AC and Front Vent buttons (third ion from left?) until both lights start to flash then you'll hear the flaps calibrating and the lights will stop flashing after 10-20 seconds. Mine has climatronic control Alasdair

I replaced all the suspension bushes plus shocks and springs on my old MK2 and it made a huge difference. The bushes didnt look bad but the new ones stiffened everything up and made the car much more positive. Shocks werent leaking but were really poor once removed. I also went for xload tyres as I tend to carry a bit of weight which were a great improvement on the comfort style tyres that were fitted due to the stronger side walls. Not as smooth a ride but as said much more positive. Alasdair

Look carefully at how good winter/all season tyres are in the wet. Some are shocking. Sons got GT radial all season and plenty of grip in wet plus pretty good in snow/cold weather. I generally like to have the same tyres on each axle but have had mixed before with no problems on the rear. Would still match the front ones though. Alasdair

Unplug them and if your headlights fail/stop working then maybe a decent autoelectrician for help or change them back to standard. I am in the process of trying to remove an aftermarket imobiliser on a MK1 mazda Eunos/MX5. Absolute nightmare trying to work out how to remove it and reconnect original wiring plus the quality of work is shocking. Wires cut and just twisted together with minimal insulation and in some cases none. Alasdair

I agree unplug them and tape over ends just in case. If nothing stops working I would leave them alone. If for any reason something doesnt work then you may have to trace them back. It may be someone has lost a live feed and jumped the fuse box instead of finding the original fault. Have had smoke out of a few fuse boxes/burnt out wires over time due to idiots either increasing amps of a fuse 'cause the original keeps blowing' or they have no idea what their doing and are running low current devices of a high current circuit without inline protection Alasdair

My old seat altea locks and unlocks when driving. I read on the Seat forum its probably a fault in the door lock circuit board/microswitch. Could be a dry joint or bad cable. I never did get round to fixing it as it only happend when driving and not when parked and the car was used as for work (more like a skip/shed really). Not sure how to disable autolocking but I assume it would need VCDS. I never use cruise control simply because I really dont like it. Alasdair

Are you sure its from the seal and not the flexi section. Oil has a weird habit of defying gravity etc. If its from the flange then maybe some hylomar blue as well as the gasket. Have used it in the past when flange was pitted and not making decent seal. Alasdair

If its shutting down when driving and p0606 I wonder if its a wiring issue either poor connection to ECU/broken wire or bad earth thats cutting the engine. It may be triggered by vibration/bumps in road but ok at idle. Not sure if the strip fuses beside battery feed anything that would cause shutdown. On my sons MK1 they are individual and are prone to hair line cracks that are impossible to see until removed but I think on the MK3 they are a complete sealed unit. I assume as its a new battery its reading a decent voltage etc. It may also be a software issue. Alasdair

Have a check for broken wires as well while your at it. If I remember correctly my sons connector was supposed to be clipped to something but was hanging loose. Its also not unknown for garages to just undo sensor without disconnecting connector and twist/put strain on the wires. Alasdair

Might be worth checking wiring to sensor/sensors. Had emission problem on my sons fabia and it was poor connection between sensor and loom. i had replaced sensor when fixing exhaust so I new it was brand new. Cleaned connector which was pretty oily/dirty and emissions were ok Alasdair

It does sound a bit high but depends if its just the clutch or includes DMF? Saying that the price of car repairs is getting high in general. Alasdair

Has the temp problem been since the stat was changed or has it just started. On mine it was ok in the summer but not when the weather turned cold. Alasdair

Its also possible that the wrong stat was used. I have seen two one is a lot lower temp than the other. Think one may be for very cold climate and the other hot but not sure.

Cables are no problem on mine. You have to lock up gearstick with think 8mm drill bit and then release and reattach cables. Think theres a you tube vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeOoDJuhSx8 Cant remember if I had to remove air box etc. As said also check that the cast weighted part on top of gbox selector and plastic bit are moving freeely. Alasdair

Sounds like the thermostat is failing or stuck open. My old Octavia did this. Took ages to get upto temp and when it was cold weather only reached around 70 degrees plus heaters were really poor.

Found this on here. Think there are two on the BKD engine. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/245159-engine-coolant-temperature-sensor/ Think you can test with a multimeter when cold and then in hot water. The resistance should change but not sure if it drops or rises when hot.

I wouldnt bother changing brake fluid at the moment. Just make sure you keep reservoir topped up when bleeding clutch so you dont let level drop enough to risk gettig air in brake system. Hopefully there is air in clutch system and by bleeding it your gearchange will improve. Might be a good idea to reset the selector cables at the same time and check the plastic bit the cables attach to above gearbox is moving freely and not stiff. Had a Seat altea that the gearshift especially in 4,5th was really stiff then I snapped the plastic bit as it had seized. Looks a bit like this