Alasdair1

I have been thinking in getting it too. No idea how easy it is to use though. I did read that you have to retrieve the ecu pin and data from the old cluster first. After that no idea. There will be a tutorial online somewhere or someone on here may know. Good lucck Alasdair

Try squeezing the top rad hose and holding for a few secs then release and keep doing it for a while. Had a similar problem when I changed timing belt/waterpump on my old 1.9tdi. After a while I got a rush of bubbles into expansion tank. Think the air was in the heater matrix. Topped up and it was fine after that.

Not good at all. Hopefully they will honour there mistake and refund you. Alasdair

Not sure but at that price might be worth a go. Maybe someone on here could confirm fitment. It would also need to be coded to your car. Think you need VCDS to do it. Alasdair

Didn't realise it does not have a temp guage. I always thought that was a daft idea. No way of telling temp is on the way up until it comes on. Ok if you can pull over but a nightmare if you cant,

Might be worth seeing if its repairable. If you fit a new one it will need to recoded etc. I looked at getting my octavia mk2 repaired but fortunately it was just the connector at rear that needed cleaned and reseated. I think it was about £180 Alasdair

Check you don't have a chunk missing of the front spring. I had one that clonked at full lock as the bottom coil was missing about 2" and It didn't sit well in strut and clonked away at full lock. Alasdair

My folks had one of the last MK1 1.9tdi estate. It was a fantastic car with more torque and power than you really needed. It would tow anything and went like a train plus got 60mpg and no dpf. It had analogue dash. Perhaps some of the late MK1 petrol would be compatible. Not sure if the dash is the same as pre facelift mk2 Alasdair

Not sure but I believe if yours is petrol it has to be from a petrol car and vive versa re diesel. Something to do with different imobilser. Alasdair

If its a failed mount and the engine is dropping 2" on gearbox end I cant see any way it would rise up again. It might be a failed top mount on front strut. Gearbox mount is fairly easy to replace anyway. Raise gearbox slightly and support. I have a cross engine bar with lifting chains and loosen bolts. Remove and replace with new. You may have to remove battery and tray to get access. and you may also have to remove dogbone to get enough clearance movement. Alasdair

Could very well just be a pipe union thats not been tightened properly if it was only replaced last year. Alasdair

On my MK2 I used a spoon to prise them off but not sure re MK1. If you replace the cluster with an other one it will need to be recoded. also if I remember I read on rostech forum it has to be from the same car ie if yours is petrol vrs then must come from a petrol vrs and vice versa re diesel. Something about different imobilizers. It might be worth getting your cluster repaired or at least a quote first. Alasdair

If the clutch still works then its probably ABS or pipe thats perhaps been rubbing and worn through or connections. As its high up it should be fairly easy to spot. Give the whole area a good clean with brake cleaner and let dry. Makes it easier to spot where the leak is. Alasdair

Good luck finding where its coming from. Hopefuly its just a brake union thats become loose. Might be worth checking the pipe that supplies the clutch as well. Alasdair

Glad you got it traced and lucky it partly failed. I would be worried why no low brake fluid warning? unless its drawn in air with still enough fluid in tank Alasdair

I think it depends on how well its serviced. My sons has done about the same and its an 06 plate 1.2HTP with no signs of rattle etc. Had to do a few things like brakes etc and a clutch (probably been owned by an elderly person before due to the low mileage who was slipping clutch) but I would expect these things on an older car. Did read that if the wrong oil or not changed/serviced regularly it can affect the chain. If its cheap enough then I would go for it as long as theres no obvious signs of problems. I drive an Octavia but I really like his fabia. Its pretty nippy around town and great to drive plus fairly easy to work on and mpg is pretty good plus its got a good sized boot unlike most of the other small cars these days. Alasdair

I fitted apec ones to my sons as they were a lot cheaper than the dealer. Used Apec braking parts before and been uite happy with them. I always put a bit of coppaslip on the bleed screw on new ones for future remova. Alasdair

As a matter of interest what brand was the new one that caused the starting problems? Last thing you need is to replace a sensor with a new one that doesn't work. Alasdair

I use KYB shocks and springs etc all the time and have never had any problems. Fitted them to volvo,toyota,skoda,vw, plus others. Last rear pair was for a fabia. Think I found them online for about £30 each. Alasdair

Many thanks for the replies. Not looking for anything fancy or modern. something to run in the winter when weather is really bad and also suitable for towing and perhaps launching a boat if I ever get it sorted. Have an early Landrover 110 1987 which is permanent 4x4 with high/low and diff lock in transfer box but its petrol and at 20mpg on a good day plus god knows what the road tax would be these days. Its been off the road in a shed for years. Mechanicly sound but interior is shot due to an invasion of mice. Always meant to do it up but reckon I would have to convert to diesel to afford to run it which would cost a fair bit. Did think of LPG but finding aanyone selling it these days is impossible Didn't think of subaru estate so will have a look Alasdair

Yes there normally is a pr code but on all my skoda so far its been missing. I think the fabia rear cylinders are fairly easy as there are two options. One with two mounting bolts and the other with just one. Try brakeparts.co.uk They have a good website with info on identification etc. I then get my parts from whoever is cheapest as long as they are reputable brands.

Thanks, That makes sense. I will look into it further. As most cars etc you come accross these days are FWD with transverse engines it might be difficult to find one. I just fancied a more aggresive 4x4 system similar to Landrover with diff lock and selectabale high low ratio. Alasdair

Hi there, Thinking of getting a 4x4 for next winter but would prefer a full 4x4 system not haldex. Does anyone know if skoda/vw actually do a proper 4x4 like landrover etc or are they all haldex based. I drive octavia mk2 at the moment. Alasdair

Chances are it was leaking slightly somewhere and over 2 months of say a drip an hour would empty reservoir. I woud refill and bleed system then check for leaks. On my old octavia the clutch master failed but all the fluid ended up on the engine undertray. It was only when it got winched onto recovery truck it leaked out. On mine the brake/clutch reservoir is shared but think the brake fluid outlet is lower than the clutch so clutch fails first. If yours is empty then check the connection from reservoir to the brake master cylinder. They can leak at the reservoir.

I would replace the rear cylinders anyway. They arent expensive. Couldn't get my sons rear brakes to balance for MOT. MOT guy suggested to just change them both . When I took them off the NS one was weeping slightly but not really losing fluid and they looked ok but on closer inspection inside the seals were shot and a fair bit of corrosion/dirt build up which was stopping them leaking badly. New cylinders and brakes were spot on. Alasdair.