Alasdair1

I doubt the cat . if it was blocked the car wouldn't run well from cold and I assume symptoms would be there from start. Just wondering if the throttle body is sticking when it gets warm. Or as it occurs when upto temp it may be temperature related like a bad earth or connector/shorted wire thats faiing when warm. Not sure what scanner was used but maybe a different one will ping something up? Not sure if VCDS works on the mk1? Alasdair

Check the actuator is actually moving or not sticking at a certain point. My 1.9tdi used to randomly go into limp mode same error. Made a slight blow off sound just before the EML light came on turbo sounded a bit like a siren in the distnace. I sprayed the acctuaator with penetrating oil and manually moved it for ages until it felt smooth again. Problem solved so far. It could also be a failed actuator. I would stick with the original turbo as I reckon a larger one will cause other problems and perhaps the ECU won't like it. Alasdair

I used to use an old school independant garage with probably a combined knowledge of well over 100 years of diagnosis and fault finding. Alas they have closed due to retirement and also cars getting too electronic/computerised for them to work on without spending a fortune on special diagnosis tools. I find that these days if the computer doesnt tell the mechanic whats wrong they havent a clue where to look and its trial and error. You may well be correct re oil being over filled or perhaps a breather if it has one is blocked. Hope they get to the bottom of it soon and you don't get charged for the work they did that wasn't needing done. Alasdair

Long shot but it might be the evap valve on the left in your picture. You say it happens after a mile or two. Wonder if its a bad connection thats failing when warm. Alasdair

Does the car have a mass air flow sensor? Meant to add although probably not but check air filter as well. Alasdair

Try flushing it from engine compartment to see if there is water flowing through it. I used a garden hose. I was changing coolant anyway so put in a flushing compound for a week or so before hand. Alasdair

If it has jumped slightly I would not be starting or driving it until timing/belts etc have been checked. One or two teeth shouldnt cause any real damage short term but if its jumped it could do it again and then it could be catastrophic. Hopefully its something simpler. Alasdair

Maybe timing has jumped a tooth or two. When was the belt/chain changed last. If it has it would explain lack of power under load. Not sure if the 1.4 is a belt or chain. Alasdair

I reckon it has to be something to do with master cylinder if all brakes are the same. Had a similar problem with one brake due to a colapsed flexi but all four the chances are nil. Alasdair

Have you towed before. Years ago I had similar probs with an auto volvo 940. It was pretty hot weather and lost drive. Turned out I needed a seperate transmission cooler for towing. Not sue re Skoda but if it was very warm then it may have cooked/boiled the gearbox fluid. Alasdair

If its under waranty I would definitley take it back to dealer. Dont touch anything yourself or let another garage (even AA/RAC) to touch it as the dealer may well come back and say the waranty is invalidated. If they don't fix it then I reckon you have grounds to return car for a refund. Alasdair

If it does it when hot it may be a bad earth or coroded connector. As it gets hot things expand and can cause bad connections. Check for damaged wiring as well. Might be worth checking the strip fuses in front of battery as well. They are prone to cracking but almost impossible to see. As it heats up the crack opens and breaks circuit. Have had this a few times in my Octavia and my sons Fabia. In my case it was ABS fault. Sounds as though its going into limp mode. Alasdair

Not sure but in two cases voltage is too low. Whats the condition of your battery? A failing one or low voltage can cause random probems. Alasdair

If none are operational it could be a bad earth or bad connection to cluster. I had problems with my octavia with random warning lights on and some lights that should be not. I removed cluster inspected it and cleaned contacts and reconnected and it was fine. When I removed it the connector at rear looked as though it had been pulled out slightly but that may have been me when I removed cluster. Not sure if there is a fuse dedicated to the cluster. If there is check its not coroded or loose and replace with a new one anyway. I used a youtube vid to remove and check my octy. This is the one I think for the fabia. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCWOOVvNcUY My car was also pretty damp due to leaky door seals. The live feed and earth are in the smaller connector I am sure you already know but disconnect battery before removing the cluster. Alasdair

Not sure,If the Not ok means that the sensor is failing or perhaps a wiring issue then I reckon that woud affect emmisions and ping up not ok. I Im no expert at all but learning. The voltage on sensor 2 is .78V and sensor 1 is .16V but I don't know if this is normal but it might mean that theres bad connection somewhere or the sensor needs replaced. Alasdair

Sons failed due to a very slight leak in exhaust which affected emisions. MOT guy sealed it up with black stuff and it passed. It wasnt noticeable as in loud but he noticed some black soot around the centre join. My fault as I hadn't tightend it up properly after a rushed flexi repair.. He was surprised such a small leak could affect emisions. Same as yours 1.2 HTP. Might be worth checking yours for leaks. Alasdair

Could be a coroded earth. Might be worth getting it scanned for fault codes to see if there are any stored. It could also be a relay thats failing or fuses that are loose or coroded Alasdair

If they wont turn have you tried spraying WD40 or similar into lock. They have a habit of seizing due to lack of use as most of the time they are fob operated. Spray and leave for a while and repeat. Another tip is to tap key carefully when in lock. Sometimes the key doesnt go all the way in and won't turn. If that doesnt work then you will probably have to go to a dealer as I assume they will be skoda only parts. They should be able to order them from VIN or perhaps reg. Alasdair

I taped the servo hose up on a temp measure and the EML light hasn't come on again since then. His pinged up codes for MAF and EVAP system and another I cant remember but so far it turned out to be servo hose.

I would check vaccum lines first to see if there are any splits or visible damage. Check the brake servo hose as well. My sons 1.2 pinged up EML and it was due to it being split and losing vaccum.

Try charging battery or replace it if its past it. I found on my Octavia that weird electronic symptoms/faults were happening due to the battery being past it and low in volts. It might cure the problem. Alasdair

I would be very sceptical of no1 as well. I would have thought that if it needs dismantling and retorquing something must have moved or worn which I assume is loose bolts or not perhaps assembled correctly in the first place or probably a known fault that should be recalled? It would also need the sub frame aligned etc. No2 may be correct but you would have thought a replacement u joint would be available but knowing modern cars probably not. No3 depends if its engine oil or gearbox oil or other. If its engine oiliit should be fairly easy to track down. If gearbox oil I wonder if the seals have gone at the inner cv joint/gearbox and its being thrown via the drive shaft. The fact that they don't think its the CV joint? If Iwas spending £460 or £1100 I would want to know is it or isnt it for definite. Previously you mentioned top mounts had been replaced. On my MK2 they have a specific direction of fitting marked with arrows. They look symetrical but there must be a reason for it. Wonder if one has been fitted in the wrong position? There are three bolts that would line up whichever way its fitted but it could be 120 degrees out? Alasdair

Many thanks. Thats what I had read but didnt think/couldnt remember its an insert. I kept coming up with complete bushing. Will have a look Alasdair

Its annoying but as we are only doing fairly short runs its not too much of a problem. Once your up to speed its not really noticeable. Will have another look and check shafts etc, Last time I checked there was as said no noticeable play and no adverse clunks etc. May have to bite the bullet and put it into a garage for diagnosis or leave it and hope it gets bad enough to work out whats wrong. Alasdair

Hi there I reckon I may need to change the bushes that the dogbone gearbox/engine bracket use in the subframe.. Is there an easy way to do it or do I have to drop subframe to remove old bushes and press new ones in. Read somewhere about a polybush replacement/conversion but that may have been for a fabia. Alasdair