Alasdair1

If the egr is stuck open then it may be letting too much exhaust in and causing very lean mix which if the coil pack/plugs are poor could in theory cause a misfire/splutter. I would remove EGR and clean/check its actually working. P040 seems too short as so far I have come accross 4 digit fault codes and longer. Alasdair

It might be worth looking at scrap yards. Cant see a complete visor being that cheap. It looks different to the MK2 if thats any help. Mine doesnt have the extra bit beside the arrow. Alasdair

Reckon your right there. That type that shatters into litte bits is prone if theres a scratch/tiny chip on the surface. Time to get the big hoover out. Alasdair

Happend to me on an old landrover. Side window just exploded for no reason. Windscreen guy said it happens and maybe due to a stone chip/scratch or flaw in glass/temp flucuation or in my case dirt/grit in the rubber window seal. Scared the daylights out of me when it went.

More than likely the plastic selector mechanism at base of Gear lever . Theres a spring on my sons thats broken so gear lever feels loose and doesnt re centre. Also check the cast weighted selector balance (not sure what its actually called) on top of Gbox as well. Son in laws vw van is the same as its loose as the centre spindle/splines is worn. Looks like this It can also be the plastic unit that the cables connect to. Alasdair

Thats a weird one. Try deleting some you dont listen to in case theres a limit to the number of files the radio can read. Long shot I know. I did also read that some older radios cant read more than 32GB but your sd card is 32gb so should be ok. Alasdair

Are the new songs/files the same format as the original ones on sd card? Maybe you saved them in a format that the radio cant reckognise or something happened during transfer. Can you play them on your PC? Alasdair

That looks pretty tidy. Did a quick MOT history check and nothing metioned re corosion etc underneath. As long as the previous owner was a proper mechanic should be ok. Theres loads of so called mechanics out there!!!. At just over 100k may need a timing belt change which I always do anyway when I get a new car just to be sure its been done with a good quality belt unless its a chain? plus a full service. At the price they are asking it may be worth snapping up . I have seen a lot worse for the money these days with major corosion on subframes etc. I personally dont mind paying over book price if its in really good condition. Obviously offer a good bit less. Good luck Alasdair

I looked at one for my son. Think the engine is from a MK3 Golf but road tax is high and if I remember MPG is poor from memory 35mpg. If its really cheap and your only doing 16miles a day and its in good condition with a decent service history then it might be ok as a runner. I went for the 1.2http as an 06 plate came up local with only 50k on the clock and zero rust. Pretty basic but it was his first car so insurance was a lot lower and so far all I have had to do is a wheel bearing,pads and shoes and a clutch which are all wear and tear Alasdair

Think they were meaning the window aerial impedance adapter not the amp in the aerial base. Alasdair

I did see a diagram somewhere but maybe a mk3 with it in top of rear hatch/boot. Alasdair

I agree probaly a short or maybe poor earth somewhere. If there is a bad signal from door locking mechanisms theres no guarantee that all doors will lock so knowing VW/Skoda they may well have a system to disable central locking so you dont leave car with a door unlocked. Just a guess.

My 12 plate 1.6tdi wont start unless clutch depressed but I get no warning message. I read as well re clutch switch for cruise control but also brake switch failure can cause cruise control shut off. I read that the brake switch from memory has two switches so even if the brake lights are working the other switch may be faulty. I think you can check on both switch operation with VCDS. Alasdair

If its the internal seals on the master there will be no signs of failure unless its leaking. Same as the slave. If any are leaking then you should notice a drop in fluid over time. I reckon it may be a master cylinder problem. Alasdair

Had a similar knock on my Octavia Front and rear. On inspecting front drop links they seemed solid with no movement. I decided to replace them anyway and only when they were removed discovered they were worn out. Weird thing was I was convinced it was coming from rear but the front ones were the problem. Theres also a dog bone bush that connects the gbox to chassis or perhaps engine mount. If its clonking all the time it may be coming from there. If replacing it watch the bolt lengths. The shorter one on the fabia MK1 goes at rear below rack. If you mix them up you can damage the steering rack. Alasdair

Sounds like either the master cylinder letting fluid past the seals/leaking or the slave. Check the brake/clutch fluid level. Had one do this on a couple of cars. Clutch went straight to floor and had to lift it up with toe. Pumped a few times and it came back. Eventually master cylinder failed completely. No fluid visible as it was all on the undertray. It drained out when the car was winched onto recovery. Wasnt losing any fluid or very little until it failed completely.

I agree it could be the o2 sensor. Its likely to be the one after the cat. Check that you have no exhaust leaks as well as my sons fabia mk1 had similar problems. His exhaust was leaking at the flexi join. Not by much but it was enough to put eml on. Alasdair

The faint fuel light may be due to the cluster connector being loose or corosion. My old 1.9tdi had weird faint warning lights like ABS and DPF. I dont have a DPF so removed cluster and cleaned contacts and replaced. Cured the faint lights. If the column is all loose maybe someone has had the cluster out and not seated it properly. Disconnect battery before removing cluster as imobilizer can stick on. Check the connectors for the column switches and also see if any earths are coroded. Alasdair

Could very well be a bad sparkplug or failing coil pack. Try swapping around and see if the fault code moves from cylinder to cylinder. As for the squeek my sons mk1 1.2 does the same when going over speed bumps. His just passed an MOT with only advisory being front swing arm bush. Years ago my folks had 1.9tdi that squeaked andthe local garage replaced front bushes but not sure which ones. It squeeked and clonked when braking. Alasdair

Hope its something simple. Old car electrics were bad enough but new ECU based stuff is getting way beyond me. Check all the fuses related to ECU as well. On my sons MK1 there are a few that are linked to ECU. Car could be going through a process before connecting and getting stuck. Used this but not sure how accurate it is but was fine for my sons to find fuses etc. His main strip fuse for brake/ABS had cracked. https://www.startmycar.com/gb/skoda/fabia/info/fusebox Alasdair

Might be that the obd port isnt connecting to one of the pins on the reader. Had problem years ago and the obd socket wasnt making proper contact with the pins in the reader cable. In my case there was dirt/corosion in the cars OBD port. I used a pin to clean and made sure the spring connectors were tight and it came back to life. Check that your actually getting 12v to socket in car and also the earth is good. Sorry not sure what pins are which think pin 16 is 12v supply and 4and5 are earths.

depending on the connections to the new one it might easier to cut wires and crimp on new female insulated spade connectors if you have enough wire length. Make sure you use insulated ones as if they come loose it will stop any shorting out.

Check back along the wiring. There may be another socket connector in line. Alasdair

Sorry dont have a link. Got two off amazon. One was a hella and the other chinese rubbish that didnt work but was so cheap I didnt bother to return it. As said didnt fit exactly but a bead of black silicone sealed it in. Alasdair

Thats a proper failure. Mine went but it was just the seals so loads of smoke but turbo was intact. Once everything has been checked and a new turbo fitted with new oil and filter etc I would change oil and filter after 200 miles to make sure any debris from the old one is removed from engine. Alasdair