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Alasdair1

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Everything posted by Alasdair1

  1. If the timing is out by a notch or two it will be down on power. I would not run car until the timing has been checked and the problem with belt has been addressed. If its slightly out it probably won't cause any damage to valves etc but if the belt jumps a few more notches then you could be back to square one. Alasdair
  2. Sons fabia is similar. Theres a spring under gearstick cover that has broken on his. Gearstick seems wobbly and doesnt; return to centre. The cover just clips in place and can be lifted to check that nothing has worn/broken. It could also be that the cable selector ends at gearbox have moved. You can reset cables by inserting I think 5mm drill bit under Gstick and then lock gear selector on gearbox and undo cable asembly and refit. I used this
  3. Found this guide on here re changing belt etc. Might be of some help especially the tensioner and locking pins etc Alasdair
  4. Glad you got it sorted. Why they put the slave cylinder a position when it leaks it kills the clutch I don't know. Reckon you got a good deal from the garage plus replacing DMF is the way to go. Might as well when Gbox is out etc.
  5. Meant to add is it a new tensioner etc as well.
  6. Pulled this from the Gates catalogue. Its for a 1.9 sdi ASY engine upto 2007. Has the mechanic got the belt fitted correctly and has the tensioner been fitted properly. Is it a new belt and the correct one if so. Alasdair.
  7. I reckon they are probably obsolete/not available as car is 20 years old plus. Might be worth seeing if you can get a set from scrapyard in better condition. Alasdair
  8. If the battery/starter motor was on its way out I doubt leaving it a few secs would make any difference. Might be a poor earth or corosion on the starter connections. Alasdair
  9. Looks ok to me re tension but did he use the tools for locking up drive sprocketstiming when fitting it. It might be 1 tooth out. Alasdair
  10. Glad there getting to the bottom of it hopefully. I would perhaps replace ignition switch anyway as you said it continued to run when key was removed. Does sound like something is stuck/worn in there. If the voltage of the battery is too low it can cause random problems with electrics/electronics but the switch is either on or off and shouldn't be affected by low voltage. Alasdair
  11. Was actually thinking on driving lights instead of fog as the headlights on his arent the best. Alasdair
  12. I would say the ignition switch has gone if it continued to run once key removed. I am surprised the imobilser didn't come on ? If the switch is stuck in pre ignition mode then that could flatten battery if left for a while. I would presonally disconnect battery and put on charge or jump it and see if the switch works plus central locking etc. I would also keep the battery disconected until you discover why it continued to run. Last thing you want is for the car to start itself. Alasdair
  13. Not sure if it normally makes a noise re HPFP sensor/valve. Might be worth changing it to see if it makes a difference depending on the cost of a new one. Alasadair
  14. Not the same car but my 1.9tdi whistled away like yours and randomly went into limp mode. Actuator for turbo was sticking. Freed it off and it was fine since. Might be worth checking its moving freely and not jammed half in half out. Alasdair
  15. Could be the new fuel pump isn't set up correctly or perhaps the fuel pressure regulator if it hasn't been changed
  16. My sons MK1 has the spaces in bumper but no wiring. I was thinking of fitting them with an inline fuse and just an extra switch on dash to make it simple. Alasdair
  17. Not sure think they are ABS . There may well be a recycle/symbol stamped into moulding. Alasdair
  18. Glad its sorted and they just blanked off the LED. Years ago I did a similar thing on an old volvo re airbags, I bypassed the led and connected it to the oil light so it came on with ignition and went off when engine running. Alasdair
  19. I think its possible to check DMF throuh starter motor hole but as theres no vibration/noise its hopefully ok. Was the noise there all the time or only when you changed gear? If it happend when changing gear it could be a sticking release bearing? or perhaps a failing slave cylinder and what you were hearing was gears crunching slightly Hope its a one of or a simple fix. Alasdair
  20. The DMF usually starts rattling away before it fails completely and you can get a judder when taking off. If it does fail it can be catastrophic and wreck gearbox etc but if it was done 5 years ago unless the car has done huge mileage per year I doubt it would be going again. Mines on 120,000 with original clutch and no noises from Gbox etc. I may be wrong but I can't see bumpy roads affecting it at all unless it was badly fitted and has become loose but as the sound has gone again I doubt it. I would monitor it and get it checked out by a reputable garage and see how it goes. Get them to check that all the Gbox to engine bolts etc aare tight. Hopefully it was perhaps something wrapped round a drive shaft that has cleared itself.
  21. I would say rears are new but front been on for a while. Front don't look too bad. Do not take the car to anyone else as as soon as someone else even looks at it I bet the dealer will dig there heels in and say their waranty if theres any is void.. If your not happy then I would take it back for a refund. Alasdair
  22. The oil change now might point to a faulty oil pressure sensor. Are there any fault codes stored? Another simple point would be the battery either bad connection or low voltage/failing. My octavia did weird things when my battery was failing. Dash lit up like a christmas tree with loads of warnings. Alasdair
  23. I reckon the caddy would be similar to do. As said worth a try. Alasdair
  24. Might be a loose or blown fuse thats causing the problem. Not sure which one does fuel pump etc but I think theres also a fuel pump control unit as well under rear seats on top of tank on some models. Alasdair
  25. I have been thinking in getting it too. No idea how easy it is to use though. I did read that you have to retrieve the ecu pin and data from the old cluster first. After that no idea. There will be a tutorial online somewhere or someone on here may know. Good lucck Alasdair

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