Alasdair1

You could use some carpet unerlay. Just got carpets fitted and they used 10mm polyeurothane foam underlay. If you have any carpet shops about the fitters will have offcuts they are dumping. Glad you got to the problem fairly easily and hope car dries out.

Pretty sure it will be the pump thats failed or failing. A new one isnt too bad price plus at least you know if its the pump or not. If battery is failing or low on charge it can cause all manner of weird electronic problems. When mine failed my MK2 Octavia dash lit up like a christmas tree with random things happening in car. Had no real warning before hand but had a few random faults/anomalies but just put it down to it being an old car. Fitted a new battery and so far so good . plus at 9 year old i reckon your battery has done its job Hope its a simple fix Alasdair

Have a look at the connectors to the box to make sure the pins/spade terminals are making a nice tight connection and the plugs are going all the way in. If it changes when moving wires then it may be a break somewhere as well or perhaps a poor earth Alasdair

Depends on which air bag is faulty. It would need to be scanned for codes to work out which one. It could also be the spiral cable in steering wheel thats failed. On my old toyota the air bag light came on and soon after horn stopped working due to the spiral cable being broken. If your investigating remember to disconnect battery before hand for a while . Last thing you want is for one to go off.

ABS I think on my sons mk1 is a strip fuse in front of battery. His are individual but I think later models had a sealed fuse pack. There prone to cracking but difficult to see any cracks until removed. His ABS brake warning lights includiing warning chime(bloody loud) used to come on randomly. The fuse had a hairline crack that broke contact from time to time. It could also be a dodgy ABS sensor or wiring. Difficult to work out when the scanner wont connect.

I used some waterproof tape on an old toyota but the glue was so evil and would not come off. May have been polythene repair tape. The fact that its not closing properly would need to be looked at first. Removing headlining is a fair job and problem will be getting it back again. I do like a sunroofs but when they start to leak there a nightmare. I have siliconed a few permanently shut and forgot about them. Not the ideal fix but it does stop them leaking. Hope you get it sorted. Get some of the silica gell tubs and put them in the car as well as a heater to dry it out. You can get them from poundstretcher or found these on amazon 10 for £7-00 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Babz-Interior-Dehumidifier-40-23/dp/B00SYPPSF0/ref=asc_df_B00SYPPSF0?mcid=b7f5649a391631dab665550d93b012ab&tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=697300220071&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6719799811399785310&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9180744&hvtargid=pla-360087119501&psc=1&hvocijid=6719799811399785310-B00SYPPSF0-&hvexpln=0&gad_source=1

If it wont close anymore then maybe it wasnt closed completly last time as it might have come out of its runners etc hence why its leaking. I would cover the car with a tarp/polythene if you can until the rain stops and you can have a proper look. Damp cars and electronics don't mix well. Remove damp carpets and put a heater in car with windows slightly open to dry it up before switching anything on. Mate fried his VW tiguan cluster after leaving soaking wet clothes in the foot well. Alasdair

If everything works at low or high speeds and you have checked wiring etc even though the lights are on it may be a wiring/dash/cluster fault. I have had similar problems on my old octavia 1.9tdi with random warning lights coming on that make no sense like DPF when there is none and ABS although everything worked. In my case it was the connector at rear of dash that was loose/dirty. I cleaned it and reinstalled cluster and the lights disapeared. If there is corosion/bad contact somewhere it would make sense as it only happens when wet. Remember to disconnect battery before remoing cluster if you are going to as you can enable imobilser. Sorry cant be of much more help Alasdair

As long as the windows work I dont think it matters but try both again with ignition on and also engine running. This came from Ai but for once its right. I normally bypass whatever google Ai comes up with. This procedure recalibrates the window's upper and lower limits. Close Window: Turn the ignition on. Roll the window all the way up using the switch, but keep holding the switch up for an extra 5 seconds after it's fully closed. Open Window: Roll the window all the way down, and keep holding the switch down for another 5 seconds after it's fully open. Test: Try the one-touch function. It should now work. If this doesnt work it may be something else thats the problem. I would hold switch for 10 secs to be sure. Worked for me so hope it works for you Alasdair

If it happened again with a known good unit then it could be wiring fault or perhaps fuses. On my sons mk1 fabia there are strip fuses near the battery compartment. I think octavia may have a sealed strip of fuses instead of individual. On his one had a hairline crack that randomly broke contact and caused ABS brake warning light to come on. The crack was so small that you couldnt see it until I removed fuse and it fell in two. Replaced fuse and it cured it. As its happening in the wet It may be wiring,fuse related thats losing connection due to dampness or perhaps a poor earth. Check the fuses beside the battery compartment for loosness,blown or corosion.

If you have recently replaced flap/motor was it a new one? According to rosstech P3101 could be fuse or wiring related. As you have had it changed recently I would check that all the wiring to the motor flap is secure plus check any earths as well as fuses which may be loose or coroded. It could be that something is disconnecting or making poor connection when hot.

Pretty sure mine is climatronic but as said havent tried in case it gets worse due to worn flaps. Alasdair

Try holding switch down for 5-10secs once window is fully up and also fully down. I changed battery in my mk2 octy and lost one touch window control until I reset windows. They wouldnt work from key fob either until I did the process of holding window switch Alasdair

It as said may take longer than 3 miles to get car upto temp especially in colder weather. If it doesnt get up to temp after a longer run I would suspect failing thermostat. Had same on my Octavia. Only reached temp in summer. The lack of drive when cold may point to low transmission fluid or the transmission fluid is past it. If its red ATF then it should be a nice cherry red colour. If its past it it will look dirty brown. Changed mine on an old auto people carrier and had big improvement in taking off and gear changes. If its a DSG box it may need serviced. Alasdair

The drivers side motor also supplies the passenger side with power. If the passenger side is working then I assume the drivers side is ok. I would replace switch as they arent expensive but before you do put press window switch down and keep holding for 10 secs once its completely down and press up and again hold for 10 secs once completely up. It will reset windows motor and in my case bring back auto up and down. Alasdair

Think the switches are similar to tv remote control so when they get dirty/greasy/wet stop working. I tried cleaning mine but ended up buying another switch as they are only about £10 for an aftermarket one. On the fabia mk1 the drivers window motor unit controls the passenger side. It may be the same on the MK2. Does the window work from the drivers side? If the drivers side is failing it can cause problems with passenger side. On mine the passenger side stopped working quickly followed by the drivers side. There is also the possibilty that the wires that come through either the drivers door or passenger door pillar are broken/damaged. If its the drivers side motor/controller then Breezy pete on here fixed mine for me. Very quick and reasonable priced service. Alasdair

I reckon the part number is 1K0959704J SK2 and the rest of the characters are maybe production codes/marks. I googled the above and LLL parts say its been replaced by 1K0959704JSK3 then replaced by another that they dont reckognise with SK1? Tried skodaparts.com and when entering the SK2 part number it came back with Škoda part number: 5K0 959 704 A SK3 1K0 959 704 AK SK1 1K0 959 704 AK SK3 1K0 959 704 J 002 1K0 959 704 J SK1 1K0 959 704 J SK2 1K0 959 704 J SK3 They say its for rear right skoda octavia mk2

Same here. My old 1.9tdi 08 plate and my 12 plate 1.6tdi are the same. My old volvo 940 used to blow the parking tickets away but the skoda seems very feeble and seems to take ages to defrost and clear windscreen even when turned to max. I did think it might need the heater flaps etc reset but was wary in case I made it worse. Would be interested if any one knows if its normal or a fault. Alasdair

Before removing panel check if you can that the window glass hasnt come out of the bottom of the regulator. There are holes in the metal panel to gain access. Its not unknown on a frosty day for the regulator to pull away from the glass if its frozen. If one side comes out then the glass is at an angle when raising and gets jammed. Alasdair

Its probably the window regulator thats either broken some plastic clips or cable has snapped/got wrapped round something. You have to drill out rivets to replace the regulator. On my sons fabia they are large special rivets and probably the same on the octavia. Part number for fabia mk1 rivet is N 910 788 01 They are 6.4 x 10 size rivets and you will need a heavy duty rivet gun to replace them. I got a riveter similar to this from amazon. Make sure it does 6.4mm Shop around for the rivets they vary a lot in price. Alasdair

If its the same as my 1.6tdi octavia its a great car. Previous was the 1.9tdiPD which I cant fault. Have noticed I have to keep revs a bit higher on the 1.6tdi to really get it going compared to the 1.9 probably as its a smaller engine with perhaps less torque. I try to give it a few long runs every couple of weeks to keep dpf clean and also with a good burn out down a motorway from time to time. Apart from the usual wear and tear its so far been excellent. Sitting at 120k and hopefully will keep going for another 100k Alasdair

If there is no filter on the outside of the tank I personally would add an inline one and get rid of the one in tank if possible. I have had problems in the past with mainly diesel in tank filters becoming blocked and have removed them and replaced with an inline one. Chances these days of getting dirty petrol I reckon is very small but its worth having a decent filter just in case plus you dont know how much sediment etc is in the bottom of the tank especially on older vehicles and outside the tank its easier and safer to change especially when its petrol. Alasdair

I have the same on my MK2 1.6tdi. Been trying to track it down for Months now. Everything checks out with no fault codes and no advises for MOT. Has become slightly worse when cornering and only when accelerating if I lift foot of accelerator pedal it disapears. I am thinking perhaps a problem with one of the front drive shafts or CV joints but can feel no movement or wear or clunks etc. Have been leaving it until it gets worse in the hope I can identify the problem but may have to put it into a garage to see if they can diagnose any problem. Mine is felt through the car not the steering wheel. Alasdair

On my sons MK1 I got to the tank through the wheel arch. The valve/pump is at the bottom so managed to remove it fairly easy without removing bumper. I think haynes did mention you have to remove bumper if replacing tank but I found I could get to pump and replace wihout removing . Haynes tend to give you full dismantling info but quite often you can work around it and remove less. From memory I think a new pump with valve was £12 from amazon. Alasdair

My 1.6tdi octavia takes about 20-30 mins to reach OP temp(90degrees) on a fairly slow drive into town at at the moment -2c . My old 1.9tdi took about an hour and in real cold weather never reached 90. I was lucky to get 70 degrees as the thermostat was bad no matter howw long I drove for. It will depend on driving style/revs etc but I reckon if its not reaching 90 degrees in about 20/30 mins of normal driving the thermostat may need replacing. Alasdair