Alasdair1

Could be top mount or binding caliper on front. Check the rears as well. My old octavia was bad for rear calipers seizing. Mainly handbrake mechanism not releasing properly and pads getting stuck in sliders. I would also swap wheels on front left to right and see if it pulls the other way. Make sure tyres are not single direction. Alasdair

Front drive shafts seem solid with no noticeable play in cv joints and no noises etc but could be out of balance slightly as you said. How to check I havent a clue. Will have a good look to see if I can see any damage or balance weight if they have one is missing. Alasdair

Dont think so. Car runs and pulls great apart from the wobble. No fault codes and emissions were spot on last week for MOT. Exhaust is clean and not sooty and 60mpg on decent runs. Alasdair

Hi there very long story cut short. Octavia 1.6tdi 12 plate which you feel a distinct wobble when accelerating which disapears when you lift off the pedal. Tried a while ago on here but still can't find out why. Its felt through the car/seat and not the steering wheel. Just passed an MOT with no advisories. New tyres on front plus balanced and checked. Rear tyres good with no out of roundness or obvious defects and look fine with 3/4tread All bushes/ball joints good front and rear with no obvious play which I assume MOT would have picked up. MOT garage has the vibrating ramp to check. Worse at around 40mph. Weird thing is its worse when car is cold and improves when warm. (could this be shock absorber related?) and randomly disapears completly. Seems worse when accelerating into corners but difficult to tell. No rattle from DMF etc No fault codes either plus car is going great pulls well and good MPG apart from wobble. Engine mounts look good Cars done 110k Drive shafts are solid with no play and no obvious damage plus no noise from CV joints Rear discs and pads brand new plus front fairly recent. Any help very welcome as its stumped me including a few reputable garages. Advice was to leave it till it gets worse and hopefully become more obvious but thats been 9 months now. Have I missed something obvious? Alasdair

Have had similar problems in past. It doesn't take much so the bolt won't catch. Try some pressure on bolt and turn anticlockwise until you feel the threads click. This helps the threads line up ready to start and also helps stop cross threading then with same pressure turn bolt clockwise. Have in past used a slightly smaller diameter rod to line up first but careful not to damage threads. Alasdair

I think they should as they are only 6mm taller. www.Wheelfitment.eu lists all tyre sizes possible including PCD etc but 225/40/18 is listed. Another useful site is https://tiresize.com/comparison it gives you the difference in size mph etc Offset is I think 47 so 45 is pretty close PCD is 5x112 and centre bore is 57.1 Alasdair

Have you the blutooth unit under the drivers/passenger seat? It depends on the cars spec if its factory fitted. The bluetooth I believe still shows up when its not there. I am not sure but I read it can be accessed via maxidot display?

Had similar problems. Leaking at valve. I got the tyre service to rremove tyres and tidied up valve hole and used a black sealant which has been brilliant. Been two years now and no probs. Sealant is rubber like and does a great job. Pic of what I used. Its also excellent if the rims are a bit coroded.

Was going to do my old 08 plate but gave up as the bolts were solid and didn't want to risk snapping them or breaking anything internal. Been trying to spray with releasant but difficult to get to. Not sure if once removed it needs realigned? I was going to mark up the original position and try and replace the same. I ended up replacing arms and a few bushes and waxoiled the rest. You will need the concentric bolts that adjust the rear camber and will have to get a 4 wheel alignment. I used FEBI and got the correct parts via FEBI parts finder. Alasdair

I agree get it scanned for codes. Theres a lot of things that can put a car into limp mode from a bad plug to something more sinister like jumped timing. You could be there for days replacing parts etc that are perfectly fine until you find whats wrong. Hopefully its something simple. Alasdair

Had imobilser problems on an old seat with dodgy key/broken transponder chip. It was diesel so started then stopped and displayed safe? Thing got stuck in imobilser mode. Garage I spoke to said petrols can be different crank but don't start at all so was thinking it might be a transponder fault or key reader thats failed. Alasdair

Have a look in the rear of car. I discovered a multicd unit in the left hand side panel in boot that I didnt know I had. Mines an estate

When you say key won't work in drivers lock does it turn or is the lock stuck. They have a habit of seizing up as they never get used. Try spraying wd40 or similar into lock and leave for a while. As for the ignition it could be the chip in the key thats failed but if its tempramental it may be the reader thats in or around ignition thats not picking up key or perhaps the ignition switch itself. I assume you changed the battery in the fob? You could get a second hand fob off ebay and get a new blade cut and a decent auto locksmith should be able to copy the chip in your original key and fit it to the new one.

I hope the MOT guy was referring to the orange colour fading on the bulbs and not the unit itself. Had MOT yesterday as well with no advisory so happy today. Alasdair

You could see if anyone is selling second hand one. Mate got a decent halfords one for £100 Alasdair

I forgot and car was off road for a few days while I fixed what I reckond was needed. Was lucky to find a new garage to me that could do it next day once I had done the repairs. Most of the MOT places here have at least 3 weeks until their next slot if your lucky. Good luck for next month Alasdair

Another years MOT. Usual suspects fixed before hand. Drop links again! plus new rear discs and pads again! and treated it to a couple of new tyres as they were getting pretty thin. Put it in expecting another list of probs but No advisorys at all. Not bad for a 13 year old car with 113k. Alasdair

Have never come across a general garage thats good with gearboxes especially autos. My old local one was honest when I had problems with my van synchro and said they always just take gearbox out and send it away to a specialist unless its something external or obvious. As for autos the most they would do was change ATF. Alasdair

Might be worth getting it scanned with VCDS. It may well pick up further info on the fault code that the RAC scanner has missed. I have read it could be the switch itself/wiring or problems within the steering wheel electronics. Alasdair

On my old mk2 the interior sensor I think near the light in roof/sunglasses holder was dusty. I hoovered it and alarm stopped going off. Alasdair

I agree with pete. scan it for fault codes first. It could be that its low on ATF or in my case on an old auto the ATF was past it. Should be a nice cherry red. Mine was dirty brown and burnt looking. Changed fluid and back to normal. Alasdair

Not sure if its related but my sons fabia pinged up similar codes with eml on a few days ago. I assumed it was the valve that returns to canister. I cleared codes in meantime to check it wasnt a one of and ordered new valve but also noticed the brake servo hose was split. Repaired it and car now idles perfectly. Previuosly it was a up and down and so far no return of codes or eml. His is a late MK1 and the rigid hose from servo to manifold are prone to splitting over time. Alasdair

Might be the timing thats slightly out. Not sure if its a chain or belt on yours but if its jumped a tooth it would explain the poor running unless the new sensor is either not working or compatible? Another option according to rosstech vcds is that low oil or oil pressure can also ping up the same code? copied from rostech Possible SymptomsMalfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active Possible CausesWiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty Timing misaligned Low level oil or low oil pressure Possible SolutionsCheck Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) Check Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) Check Timing Check Oil level and/or Oil pressure Alasdair

Check the load carry capacity. My mate had a cheap set and he over did it with filling a roof box and it didn't end well. Amazing it didn't hit anyone or another car but went a fair distance down the road when he had to brake suddenly. Alasdair

Reckon a new or known working second hand one will be in order. Don't think they are cleanable. You coud de cat it but would probably cause MOT problems. I got my last one from https://www.cats2u.co.uk It was for an old volvo 940 and price was pretty good. Alasdair