Alasdair1

That does look like a big gap but I don't know what the proper gap should be. I think it depends on the make of plug but I assume it would be 0.9-1mm. Also worth checking your actually getting a spark. I doubt if all three coil packs would fail at one time. Check fuses as well for fuel pump etc. The two thin wires on the alternator should be marked L and DFM on the small connector. The L wire is the exciter wire and the DFM is connected to ECU. Cant remember their colours I have read they are liable to break at the connector but still look ok. The wire marked L should have 12V supply with ignition on. Alasdair

Meant to add if yours has rear discs the handbrake cable operates a lever on top of caliper. My old octavia used to bind as the lever was seizing. The handbrake would go on when you pulled handbrake but wouldnt release properly. I removed caliper (still connected to flexi hose) and then lever from caliper and lubricated mechanism, replaced lever and manually operated it until it freed off. Had to do it a good few times plus kept having to wind in pistons as well. If checking if the brakes are over heated don't burn your finger like I did. Alasdair

It can also be caused by sticking handbrake cable or pads that are seized in guides/seized caliper guide pins. As Warrior193 said check that the centre of wheels isnt very hot after a longish drive. You can also check by raising each wheel and make sure it spins freely. Alasdair

A simple check. Have a look at the thin wire going to alternator(exciter wire). Its known for it to break causing no start. Alasdair

I would get it scanned with vcds. If theres a misfire it will probably be stored as a fault code plus it could very well ping something else up. It could be a blocked Cat but I assume that would put management light on? Check that you have no brakes binding (pretty obvious but sometimes missed)

Might be worth changing seal and see if it makes a difference. I assume the rubber will degrade over time. juST realized you got a new cap. Alasdair

What was it like before the timing chain was done? If its a tooth out it would explain lack of power. Alasdair

Sorry dont know how I missed that. Depending on how many miles you have done with new clutch it may just be bedding in. My sons was a bit weird at first after I changed it but settled in after a few days. Lack of power could be as simple as the airfilter, check its not needing changed. It might also be worth getting car scanned for fault codes as well just in case there are any stored. A clogged fuel filter is another option but highly unlikely. I assume the engine management light comes on with ignition and goes off when started. Alasdair

The noise that disapears when clutch is pressed could be a worn release bearing or DMF if fitted. Not sure on your car. My sons mk1 1.2htp was pretty gutless on main roads but seems quite nippy around town. I changed clutch as it had failed and it seems to have a bit more acceleration and more power. I reckon his clutch was slipping under acceleration. No real smell of burnt clutch and then one day it failed completely without warning. All that was left was a pile of fibres in the bottom of bell housing. At 170k if yours is the original clutch then it may be slipping and thats why your losing power Alasdair

Never brave enough to try the MR muscle. If I read up on it correctly its ok on steel but will eat any alloy so you have to be careful when using it. I cant see a failing turbo causing vibration but a sticking actuator or veins will put on the EML or limp mode. Check that the actuator is moving freely. Mine was sticking and car would go into limp mode if I revved it too high when driving.

Not sure if they have it but been using https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk So far been very good prices and quick delivery. Had one order that incurred an extra delivery charge due to where it was being sent from but was notified before it was despatched. I ordered another brand and it was fine. Normal delivery is 24-48hrs

When it does it again remove fuel cap to see if theres a vaccum and try starting without cap on. When my van did it due to the wrong cap being fitted it was worse with a full tank Alasdair

Had a volvo 940 that used to drain overnight. Tried all the usual but no joy. Eventually traced it to the alarm siren battery backup but couldn't find fuse as nothing marked for charging battery pack (probably for security) so traced wires/followed wiring diagram and it was being trickle charged via the clock on dash but not enough to blow fuse but batteries were shorted out and had leaked/melted so were trying to charge up constantly. Alasdair

I ran mine for a while as it only went to floor randomly until one day went to floor and stayed there. Luckily at time knew a recovery friend who took us home. I was lucky as it failed when I was dropping my son to school and was in a bus stop. Could have gone I suppose at any time. I would get it looked at sooner than later. Keep an eye on the brake/clutch fluid. Think I got a sachs master cylinder through amazon for about £40 Alasdair

Meant to add that the slave on my sons MK1 is external but it can leak inside the bell housing. Check the bottom of Gbox for dampness as well. On his the brake fluid reservoir is also the clutch. Check the level isn't dropping.

Clutch may well be pure coincindence. Sounds like either the master or slave cylinder is either leaking or allowing fluid past the seals. Check for fluid around pedals and also under car. My octavia used to do that. Clutch would hit floor and not return. Flicked it up with my foot and it would be fine for a while. It was the master that had started leaking. Fluid was on the undertray and leaked out when it got winched onto recovery. As for electrics it may need scanned to see if it pings anything up. Alasdair

Its a long shot but could it be drawing air into fuel line when hot or perhaps the fuel tank vent/cap is blocked? Had an old van that did the same. Fuel cap vent was blocked and caused a vaccum in fuel system. It was enough to eventually colapse tank enough to block fuel pick up. Used to start when cold no bother but wouldn't start when hot. Fine when it cooled down a bit. Alasdair

I always thought the light flashed and beeped when it was low oil. My sons MK1 does when you change oil until engine has been run for a minute. Maybe the MK2 is different. His is the 1.2 HTP engine as well. If your removing sump I think its silicone based gasket. I did an old toyota and it had a silcone sump seal. Took a while to remove but found the small snap off craft knives were good at slicing inbetween sump and engine block. Toyota wanted a fortune for a tube of sealant. I did some research and used Loctite grey SI5660. Was reccomended on a toyota import forum as suitable for japanese imports sumps. Still fine and that was years ago. Think a tube was about £12-£15 Alasdair

Is there an oil level sensor on that engine? Not the oil pressure sensor that you changed. It could be sending false readings or perhaps bad wiring Alasdair

Might be starter motor or wiring/battery. It may not be turning engine fast enough when hot. Another fault which I have read about is the coolant temp sensor. Sometimes if you unplug it when hot the car will start. Have you had it scanned with vcds for any stored fault codes. If its going into limp mode there should be some stored somewhere. Alasdair

Not sure but it may depend on the tyre profile. I use this to compare different wheel/tyre sizes https://tiresize.com/comparison/ plus I use https://www.wheelfitment.eu/#google_vignette for PCD offset and centre bore. Alasdair

On my 1.9tdi BXE there is an EGR cooler at rear of engine. Not sure on the BLT Theres a small plastic valve then the EGR If yours is the same It could be coolant getting in to engine/exhaust that way if its leaking. I assume it would only let coolant in when egr vaccum pipes are connected as on mine the small plastic valve opens the cooler. Alasdair

I assume you require special expensive skoda only tools to do it and probably a nightmare to do. Think I will stick to my old school diesels. Did wonder why they suddenly changed the interval. Easiest one I have ever done was the Volvo B230FT (940) plus being a non interference engine so even if it snapped not a major problem. I miss my RWD cars. So much easier to work on. My old garage retired due to the cost of tools plus software updates etc required to repair/service newer cars and also having to charge over £1000 for a timing belt. Alasdair

No nothing that modern. Have done loads over the years but mainly RWD. Last couple were FWD 1.9tdi BXE Octavia and Seat altea which was fairly straight forward. I assume the euro6 tsi is a bit more complicated. Would like to know if skoda would cover you if you stick to their reccomendation change interval and something happens though. Alasdair

Not wanting to open a can of worms but personally I change all of mine every 5 years or 60k even though skoda recomendation has changed. Often wondered if it fails how easy it would be to claim a new engine plus labour from skoda! especially if the cars out of waranty. Alasdair