Alasdair1

Personally I always use Gates timing belts and kits. Not sure who makes this one. Never had any problems with them but there are a few out there that are not worth the risk. Does it have a belt or chain? I thought the 1.4 was a timing chain. Someone on here will confirm. Alasdair

If the air flow sensor looks new it may have been replaced just before you got the car. Its a long shot but wondering if its the correct one thats fitted or why it was replaced. Might be worth checking wiring continuity as well. Alasdair

Sorry missed bit re neew lamda. Good luck with checking wiring etc. Alasdair

Check the bottom of the rad for wetness. My daughters vw had a slight leak where the temp sensor goes into rad plus on further inspection the bottom of the rad had started to disintegrate on the inside. Alasdair

It could be a dirty lamda sensor. If the car had a misfire it could have contaminated it due to unburnt fuel etc. I assume the resistance would be the same if it was dirty or not. Might be worth trying a new one or a known good one.

I would haave thought if the high pressure pump had failed it would have thrown up a code. Hopefully its just a fuse/relay or low pressure pump. Alasdair

Not sure either but maybe fuel pump failure or fuse/relay Alasdair

Might be worth ordering another one in case its on its way out. Dont think they are that expensive. Alasdair

Check the strip fuses in front of battery. My sons ABS one had a hairline crack in it and it randomly put on alarm/warning lights. ABS/brake warning etc They may look ok but when I removed it it split in two. Look carefully as the crack on his was almost invisible.

Sounds like the accelerator pedal sensor is wearing out. When you depress the clutch I assume you take foot of accelerator which if its worn at a certain point would explain why car recovers. Alasdair

If its stopped and the oil marks were black then I reckon the additive you added has worked and its from engine. Maybe rocker cover etc. I would keep and eye on it and check levels regulary. The stop oil leak additives worked for a while with me a while ago but eventually started leaking again I had a failing crank seal that eventually got so bad I had to replace it. Alasdair

Havent come across any matrix failures on here so I assume not a very common problem. I used to drive volvo940/960 and they were very prone to a wet carpet and sweet smell. Its funny how attached to cars you get. Still have my old Octavia mk2 1.9tdi which I loved but rust set in and reckon it needs welding and a lot of TLC. It had loads of torque and when you wanted it to go and it went. Now a 1.6tdi MK2 but just not the same. Nice to drive but doesnt have that oomph at low speeds or revs. Saying that I would have another volvo 960 estate tomorrow but couldn't aford to run it or tax it. Good luck with garage and hopefully simple fix Alasdair

The last time I heard of a matrix removal and replacement it was a lot due to the labour involved. Hope they can repair it without dash removal. Alasdair

Don't suppose the steering wheel was removed. Maybe the connection to the spiral cable? Try and resetting it and see how long it takes to come on again. Might be long enough to get it through MOT. I disabled mine on an old toyota by unplugging crash sensor/airbag control unit with battery disconnected and the light went out.

Depending on what condition/mileage your car has done it might be worth trying Kseal. If its in really good condition I would see about replacing or checking matrix. I used it on an old toyota lucida with cracked head in desperation and it worked and lasted for about a year. Didn't have any problems with clogging heater matrix etc or any other cooling issues. I used it again after about a year and it lasted until I replaced cylinder head. You just add it to coolant and run car. Its around £15. I had cracks between the valves that caused coolant to fill piston and hydraulic the engine. Worked in about 1/2 hour. Check the condition of the hoses to the matrix first if you can and also the connections to and from just in case its a bad jubilee clip. Alasdair

Hope its an easy fix, Check the connections in engine compartment just in case its leaking there and running back through bulkhead to matrix. As said put a seperate post up to see if anyone has any tips or reccomendation re a sealant, Alasdair

I believe it requires the dash removed. You could by pass it in the engine bay but then no heat. Try puting a seperate post up re heater matrix replacement/leaking. Someone on here will have done one or have some tips. I wouldn't use radweld etc until your sure and I have heard that radweld etc can cause other problems. There may be a better leak sealer available, Alasdair

That may well be antifreeze. It leaves a dry pinkish white residue if using red antifreeze. Hope its just a jubilee clip or perished hose. Alasdair

Just wondering if the heater matrix has a leak? or perhaps the pipes feeding it. If your losing coolant and window is steaming up it might be where the coolant is going expecially if theres a sweet smell. Check that the carpets etc arent damp in the front. Not sure which side the heater matrix is on. I would check the wiring and connector for the temp sensor as said. Alasdair

My son in law is having problems as well. Try this https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/guide-generation-4-haldex-trouble-shooting/ Theres a lot of useful info on their site. One thing to check is the condition of the Haldex controler wiring socket. They can get coroded and send false signals to pump etc. The ecu for the haldex can also suffer from water ingress which causes similar symptoms as the circuit board can corode to. They can repair them as well if I remember. Alasdair

P0117 is as far as I know a low signal from engine temp sensor. As you have replaced thermostat and coolant sensor check the wiring/connector. Not sure if yours has as said has two. One for engine temp which sends to ECU. Normally green under engine cover and coolant sensor that operates fan which may be in coolant pipe somewhere? Does your temp guage work and what temp does it get to. Maybe someone on here will know for sure. I would make sure the connectors are clean and inspect wiring for breaks/short. Alasdair

Check where the drive shafts go into box plus underneath box itself. If its a amber colour It may not be engine oil unless yours has been changed recently. Any oil leak I have had is usually black/brown from engine unless its fairly recent oil change. Check the brake reservoir as well. It could be brake/clutch fluid. Alasdair

Keep an eye on it. The oil stop leak does work but I find that its not a permanent fix. I assume that its the engine oil you added it to but might be gearbox leak at drive shaft and level is now low so not leaking so much. Might be worth checking level on Gbox Alasdair

Had the same in an old fiat van. Would run and then stop randomly. Eventually it stopped completely Turns out the guy who had the van before had replaced cap as he losst original but it wasn't vented so caused a vacuum. My tank actually got pulled in and eventually blocked diesel uptake. I would never have worked it out but the tank looked like it had been crushed at the bottom. At least yours was a simple fix unlike mine that needed tank removed and blown out again.

Sounds very like mine was. Randomly when coming off throttle I heard a pop/blow off sound. Not as loud as something like an Mitsibushi evo but similar. Also had a slight whine like a siren in the distance before the pop alasdair