Alasdair1

Local scrap yards etc or ebay but perhaps paint badges the same colour as car? Alasdair

I agree had same in my sons fabia. Starts first time ok then stopped at garage and battery flat. His is petrol but diesel would take more current. Read 12v when charged up again then after starting pretty flat again. Seemed to be charging ok on car with no warning lights etc and took full charge with charger. New battery and its fine now.

Could be a sticking starter motor/solanoid. My daughters old beetle used to do this if it was left for a while. Think it was the starter engaging but not releasing fully. If I remember it was a fairly common problem with the early new shape beetles. Alasdair

Is the drop in revs when moving car in reverse or when stationary with foot on clutch and do the reversing lights work.

This happened on my old 1.9tdi. DPF light on but dim plus engine manag light ABS and a few others but all dim. I didnt have a DPF on the PD engine so I reckoned wiring/connector/earth so removed dash cluster and cleaned/reconnected connector and it was fine after that. It could also be a failing cluster due to bad solder joints. If removing cluster disconnect battery first and leave for a while. If theres power to the dash it can set of the imobilizer as I think the cluster is coded. Check cluster for any signs of broken circuit or bad solder joints. Not too bad a job to remove. If its the cluster I think its around £150 to get it pofesionally repaired. Alasdair

Could also be a dry solder joint in cluster. Some of the MK2 octavia were prone. When I removed mine I noticed a small section of it had been repaired. Had a couple of wires by passing a section of the circuit board. Give it a good check over with a decent magnifying lens. Alasdair

Drivers side window motor unit controls both passenger and drivers side windows. My sons failed and no windows. Nightmare as I had to drive home in -5 with drivers side down on slushy roads. Was frozen soild and even had ice in my hair. Got it fixed/exchanged by someone on here but can't remember off hand. Its normally a couple of components within the unit that fails. If you order a second hand one a lot of the units sold on ebay are for LHD cars and won't be the same. Think from memory they have the same part number but the RHD ones are 6Q2***** not 6Q1***** It could also be the wiring that comes through the door. The cables have been known to break. I would check continuity of cables first but does sound like the window motor/controler Just remembered. Breezy_Pete fixed mine. It was about a year ago so not sure if he is still repairing. Alasdair

Could very well be the connector at rear of dash. Thats where I would start. Had an Octavia that did the same. I pulled dash and cleaned and recconected connector. It did seem to be partly disconnected when I removed cluster but that could have been me. It was fine after that. Not sure on the Fabia but on Octavia dash is coded and you have to remove battery before removal as it can imobize car. Better to be safe than sorry. Alasdair

I would perhaps try another battery or if you dont want to buy one then jump start? The 1.2 doesnt need much to turn it over at all but the electrics may struggle if the voltage drops too much especially when cranking. The starter will take most of the power and cause a further drop in voltage If your getting a spark it may be that the coils work at a lower voltage. Other electrical parts like relays,injectors etc may need more. You mentioned 9.2 volts which is pretty low. It would crank engine at 9.2v but electronics etc are probably looking for10v-12v min. My Octavia diesel dash is like a christmas tree when trying to start with a low battery. Hope its just the battery and you get it sorted.

For some reason there are two part numbers on it. Look under Germany there is the part number I found online. 6Q0711202. I repaired mine by drilling out broken shaft and using a carriage bolt the same diameter. I managed to tap the bolt home to secure it with the square section and at the same time glued it with two part araldite. I used a nyloc nut when fitting it back in car. Tightned it then slackend off just enough to get it to turn. I did get a replacement eventually but the repair is still on the car. You maay have to drill out the broken shaft slightly larger than the thread to get the square section to tap in.

I had the same with an old seat. Sat for a few months and turned green inside. I stripped out mats and carpets that could come out and put an electric heater in it with the windows just open to dry it out. I then hoovered as much as I could and treated with a spray of diluted vinegar let dry and then more hoovering wiping down. Stunk for a while but cured/killed mould. Seat belts were the worse but I pulled them out as far as they would go and power washed them on the outside of car. I have a few paacks of the silica gel packs for damp houses in it now as its not being used. Think I got them from either B&Q or poundland. Alasdair

Are you sure the part number is correct from the original? I had a look on line and came up with 6Q0711202 for MK2. Not sure what model or gearbox you have? I found this online with links to Skoda Etka. Look under pedals then 711-030. https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares Its easy to mistake 3 for 2 on some of the parts. Alasdair

The part number on ebay etc pings up an input and output speed sensor for about £30-00 per pair. These are aftermarket so not sure of quality but for £30-00 its a lot less than even 1/2 hour labour at garage. Would be worth trying a replacement pair. Even if you could find a replacement box with low mileage etc as the garage is suggesting its going to cost a lot of money to get them to swap them over plus most breakers give you about six months guarantee if you are very lucky. I would start as Pete says by checking wiring and connections to sensors and perhaps order a pair and try them. Looks like theres only one bolt holding them in. Alasdair

I would replace speed sensor. Not sure where on an autobox but the manual box is on top toeards the rear of car between drive shafts. There not expensive. Around £15-00 for my mk1 1.2 fabia.

Had this on a Seat altea but same engine I think. 1.9tdiBXE Used to go into limp mode with same error code randomly. Clear code and it was fine for a while then back. Cleaned EGR valve etc which was full of gunge and checked vaccum operation Cured it for a while then it came back. Got a second haand vaccum control unit and checked all vaccum pipes but no difference. Finally found a small black vaccum valve on EGR cooler at rear of engine that was sticking. Not the easiest to get to but managed without having to remove cooler. Alasdair

Not injector related but my 1.9tdi did the same. Limp mode all of a sudden with no warning lights. If I stopped and started the car again it seemed to clear the limp mode for a while then randomly it would happen again. Got no fault codes either. It was a seizing actuator/turbo . Not sure on yours but mine is a VNT turbo so either the actuator was stiff or the fins on the turbo were stuck. I sprayed actuator with wd40 and kept manually operating it until it freed off. Been fine ever since. Mine always smoked a little on startup because one of the glowplugs is dead.

Could very well be the clockspring. In my case the airbag light came on but horn still worked. I have also experienced the horn failing first then airbag light. It might be a wiring/connection issue to the clockspring/steering wheel but I am always very wary about airbags. Last thing you want is it to go off while working on it. Check how to disable it or how to remove safely. I always remove battery for a good few hours first. Alasdair

I get that on my diesels when I have changed fuel filter. It takes a while to get the fuel back through hence the beep and oil pressure light until it starts. Did you change the fuel filter when servicing it? Just wondering if its an airlock or perhaps fuel pump problem or if the filter is choked. You could pull a spark plug out after cranking to see if its wet with fuel. Alasdair

I bought a cheap one off amazon. It was only £15-00 . Not sure how accurate it is but it shows if compression is low or if one cylindesr is a lot lower than the others. I got it to check a very old LPG forrklift and luckily it showed all cylinders were about the same and reasonable. Turned out it was the distributor . I got this one but in an orange box, For £15-00 even if you use it once then I reckon its paid for its self plus its a handy tool to have. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07RTY7Q1R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure on the votage when cranking engine. I have in the back of my mind about 9.5-10 volts. Anything less would point to a failing battery or one thats needing charged but if it cranks over at a normal speed then I would assume theres enough for creating spark etc.

If its cranking then the first I would check was if your getting a spark, Next fuel before doing anything else. If it was running well before then its most likely something that you have missed or disconnected/dislodged. Check the strip fuses at the battery and wiring. Alasdair

Are you sure your getting a spark. Connect a timing light or similar to check. I have one of these in line spark checker. Might be that you pulled the main HT lead when changing plugs or distributor problem? Alasdair

An inspection pit is ok but can be dangerous unless you have extractor fans at bottom unless its built with an open end with a sloping floor. Petrol and other vapours sink and can collect at the bottom. One spark and you could be toast! I was going to build a couple of concrete ramps above ground instead and hopefully work out a way of fixing a jacking beam. Alasdair

Did have a look but personally a four post lift for me is what I'm saving for. I dont have the height but I hope to either build a garage or raise the

I had problems with injectors on another car and luckily we have a pretty good perkins engine diesel specialist locally. They only charged me £10 per injector to test pattern and release pressure etc. One was faulty so I bought a recon one. If your getting someone to do the injectors you could get them to replace glowplugs at same time. There not that expensive but can be a pain to get out. Worth a bit of penetrating oil from time to time before trying to remove. I have one on my old octavia thats failed but so far the car still starts. Can be a bit lumpy for a couple of secs and slight smoke when starting in really cold weather. Good call on getting injector loom checked as well before replacing injectors. Alasdair