J.R.

I am 800kms away from the VAG technical info I have on DPF regeneration but I'm fairly sure that it said EGR was inhibited during the regeneration process to maintain a high enough temperature, this was something that I looked long and hard at before deciding to fit an EGR emulator/simulator. I agree that the temps are too low, it sounds like the post combustion fuelling is not happening. Come to think of it the ECU needs to know that the EGR is fitted and working (monitoring of flap position) in order for a regeneration to happen (hence the reason for the emulator/simulator) it sounds like the "delete" is to blame.

Not a chance, the differential would do ten million miles without ever changing the oil it was filled with from the factory, or between 10 and 1000 miles after the Haldex was serviced by someone indiscriminate in their choice of orifice! 😆

More fool you for reading the instructions, I never do so don't need to remove valve cores 😆 I presume that you meant valve cores. Seriously I have never removed a valve core when using a can of gunk and I have used many, and seriously I only read instructions when all else fails so you could be correct but is that not perhaps the procedure for the gunk that comes with a tyre inflator pump in the standard "no spare wheel" kit? - It had already been removed from my vehicle together with anything else that wasn't screwed down.

Having seen the photograph I dont think the "idiot" as you call him could have chosen a better location aside from screwing it to the outside of a lower dash trim which I'm sure you would soon have moaned about, that panel on the drivers side is intended to be removed to access the fuses. He ought to have screwed or tywrapped it in position though.

Thanks, I try my best!

People who post about things like lights going off "without any reason" are usually the same ones that say "suddenly XYZ (warning) light came on without any warning!" or "the car came out of nowhere!" 😆

You do not know that, I concur with what ApertureS says. Many lower priority fault codes have a frequency counter if the fault appears to "heal up", if the fault is not logged again within a certain number of engine starts it ceases to be an active fault code and any MIL will be extinguished, an example might be a blown bulb that was replaced and the fault code not erased, a wire chafing against chassis earth which was either relocated or insulated etc.

From the first time I ever had the misfortune to use a tyre fitting place some 45 years ago it has been my experience that mechanics and tyre fitters inflate all tyres to 30 psi because they can't be ar5ed to look up individual figures, back then that may have been a reasonable average and not unsafe, with todays stupid rim sizes and rubber band tyres it is dangerously underinflated for most vehicles. Given that most of the spotty youths in Kwik-fit were not born back then, nor their parents either I'm surprised that the old figure is still being passed on and accepted unthinkingly (well not the latter actually!) it should be something like 2.5 bar these days, I know they should not use a general figure and inflate the tyres correctly for the vehicle but that ain't gonna happen in my lifetime!

How exactly do you believe that they adjust the camber on the Macpherson strut suspension and what does that have to do with wheel alignment (toe out)? Assuming you know something that I don't and they do adjust the camber to within the specification how can that be a bit too far?

Me too! 👍

Sensor is external to the ignition barrel, it does not recognise the key chip but sends the data to the instrument panel that does, or doesn't as the case may be. Sensor does not give feed to starter motor, the start contact on the switch does via a relay. If the problem were non recognition of the RF chip in the key the engine would crank, start and run for a second or so and then die. I agree with Inspectorman and would hotwire the relay coil first to eliminate that & then using a multimeter check the start output from the ignition barrel.

Do you have an open unobstructed output from the pump? You appear to be holding something over the outlet which might block it, at the minimum it should have an orifice equal to the sum area of the washer jets. It could be a pressure relief port, 3 pumps leaking from the same area sounds like blocked jets or tubing.

Take it to the cinema or a restaurant.

A job I must get around to doing, they aren't just puny and useless but a complete embarassment when you use it. I rarely use mine and each time I regret it and make a vow to change it which I promptly forget.

He didn't choose it, the CIA did it with one of their hacking things.

Textbook CIA behaviour, you need to get to a safe house ASAP, stop using the internet and get a foil hat. That is how I read it the first time! Probably "extreme"

Absolutely not the latter, my spacesaver has a thicker tyre and rim than a forklift truck! Without exaggeration the rim is 5 or 6mm steel.

I have no idea what a "key tip" is and your photos dont help me, they look like they could be a cover for the back up lock barrel but "key tip"?

I'm not sure of the conditions for the partial closure for EGR but a diesel engine does not need any help in slowing down, the engine compression does that very well all on its own. In terms of emissions and especially oil consumption it is not desirable to create a vacuum on over-run in the inlet tract of a diesel engine.

It's worth investing £20 or so in an electronic discharge tester, mine is easier to use and does not discharge the battery like my old school kettle element load tester but I'm not convinced that the AH and "Life Remaining" figures are accurate but good enough as a comparator, it does not give accurate readings if the battery is still connected to the vehicle. If you have used various chargers enough times to resurrect supposedly dead batteries then you eventually get a feel from the ammeter readings against time whether the operation will be successfull or not. Whilst the modern chargers are able to desulphate a battery to a degree they will not spark up with a completely dead battery, you have to put one with some cell voltage in parallel, also you cannot give them a higher voltage initial burst to get them going like an old school charger on the high setting, I have even had to use my starter charger for a few seconds to get the initial charge going. Thankfully I am no longer so hard up that I have to nurse a dead battery through winter, taking a charged spare with me if I leave the vehicle at a station for a couple of days or having to take the battery in on cold nights, one extreme time when I had no heating in the property the battery had to come to bed with me 🥴 If you find this battery wont turn the engine on a cold start on a very cold day pour a kettle of boiling water slowly over the casing, wait 60 seconds and then crank the engine, that is if you stopped cranking promptly and did not crank it to death.

It should be more than 12v after resting several hours post charge and at room temperature, 12.1v equates to about 40% charge, however given that you have such a margin with a 720ah battery on the small engine that it will probably function OK, it will not have the same autonomy so will not take kindly to not being used for weeks at a time, it may only have days of autonomy and leaving the lights on for an hour when parked will probably kill it. That was my experience with a battery I brought back from the dead.

You should definitely change the foam bump stops which also retain the piston shroud, they have probably already decomposed into nothingness. They are dirt cheap, if by looking under the wheelarch you cannot see the piston rod of the shock absorber the shrouds are in place, if you can they will have dropped down, look at the bottom of the shocker, it's possible that a previous owner will have cut them away because of the rattling noise they make or someone who has previously changed the shocks did not refit them because the foam bump stop would no longer retain them, they are dirt cheap as well but with both you want to order in advance of needing them to avoid doing the job twice.

I realise from your subsequent postings that the above was a typo and that you were trying and failing to go up the hill forwards. I am surprised that nobody has suggested trying to reverse up when forward motion failed, the weight transfer of the powertrain on a front engined FWD vehicle going forward up an incline loses traction from the front (facing) axle but adds traction to the rear, it is the reason that Bugginbobs RWD BMW was able to climb the hill and not his FWD Octavia, setting aside any differences in tyres.

It was fault codes for all 4 glowplugs on my PD engine that brought me back to this forum (the MK1 Octavia was so reliable I had no need to visit) I refused to accept that all 4 would have failed yet the engine started and ran correctly so was looking at wiring, relay problems etc. More experienced minds convinced me to change them but I was sceptical, even more so when there was absolutely no difference with the new glowplugs aside from that which I wanted to resolve, - no more fault codes!!!! So the PD engine has them but in my experience really doesn't need them for starting even in glacial conditions, for post start emissions probably but they are not my concern. Since then I have never waited for the glowplug light to go out even on my current CR engine.

My not so reliable memory tells me that when I used to play around with Lambda sensors the reference voltage was 0.9 or 1 volt for Lambda 1.0, maybe it is lower on the later generation. I keep a moving coil analogue multimeter simply for testing Lambda sensor outputs, whether it be 0.9v, 1.0v or 0.45v what I look for is the voltage rapidly switching high and low around that median voltage.