rum4mo

I'm not sure that any VW Group cars that I've owned have had Loctite - red or blue, on these bolts - but that might be my error on not noticing any on all these guide bolts that I've removed and refitted. Other versions do have blue Loctite on them, which I clean up and apply fresh Loctite on reuse. Edit:- for clarification, my comments were aimed at the threaded guide pin type, ie the version in the first picture, the short bolts that screw into the end of the separate guide pins, ie the version in the second picture do tend to have Loctite on them, typically Blue Loctite paste.

I'm guessing your problem is that "stuff" tends to cover up most of the top of batteries in some newer cars - whereas, a few years ago, it was less crowded around there and you could read all the info that you wanted to.

@OccyVRS so it sounds like protectionism has returned, very annoying! I think that there is something similar happening around "replacing brake parts" - if so, that needs knocking on the head as well. An aside maybe, or closely connected with this sort of situation, I have had the misfortune to need to buy in a highish value part for my car, when I phoned the Audi dealership parts department, they advised me that it would need ordering in from the factory - really just what I expected for a slow moving highish value part, the parts guy checked for current availability and the parts were both available to order and for me to collect in 2 days time, I asked him for the actual part number really just to make sure that the exactly correct parts were being ordered "we are not allowed to hand out that information" - so I offered the last 3 numbers and 2 letters of the part number and he grudgingly agreed that was what I was going to pay for and collect in 2 days time, then I got the spiel(sp) about there being a list of other parts that I must buy or the parts warranty would be null and void - I passed on that as I'm a DIYer and I don't think that VW Group would be interested in addressing any issues I had with these parts after I had left the building, anyway I had already bought all associated hardware. I wandered in 2 days later, "sorry one part failed to make the transport so it will be here tomorrow". Not wanting to waste more time than necessary, the next day I phoned before leaving home "oh that part is on back order - I told you that when you ordered the parts as it was me that handled that order" - nothing like that was said previously but such is life sometimes dealing with people, so I asked when it might appear or when they will get visibility of that from the factory - "phone tomorrow and we'll know more", phoned the next day "phone in another 2 days time". Soon, maybe tomorrow, I'll give them a phone call, if that part is not currently available then that is that, but surely there must be a clear time line as it when it will be back in stock, this is not rocket science. Things are starting to get a lot sloppier concerning VW Group, maybe dealing with old internal combustion engines cars is boring them.

Just adding this "info" For a while, there was a bit of chattering going on on maybe a VW forum, where people replacing the engine coolant on these EA211 family of engines, just removed the small pipe from the coolant reservoir, extended it with another length of pipe and pointed that into a 10 litre or so bucket, then started the car up while having "enough" premixed new G12evo beside them, and fed all this new coolant into the reservoir as the car pumped the old coolant out into the bucket! Maybe doing that would flush out any collected air if you've needed to open up the system. Just a suggestion, though I'll be aiming at using my Draper coolant refill vacuum kit when I replace the coolant in my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS.

@GiscoYeti , I was a bit concerned about you being able to "double the power" with your new battery, the "power" is the CCA or Cold Cranking Amperes and there are maybe 3 ways to rate/describe this, ie DIN which yields a very low value, then EN or SAE which method yields a value that is almost twice the DIN value/rating.

I do have a weakness for Knipex pliers! For this job I bought something cheaper like US Pro or cheaper, and they did work. I've also got a Laser Tools tool that can be used for that job, it is a small rack sort of thing, bought for another specific job - I've forgotten what, but it has been very useful, as usual bought at a lot less than Laser Tools rrp!

Maybe look into what you can get from your OBDeleven in terms of "fault codes" I would have thought that it was or was able to point you directly to the exact ABS wheel sensor that had failed, doing a quick "clear all stored faults" at first is not the best way to use that scan tool - yes okay clear them all, but record them first as maybe, you are being told what the fault is.

@nta16 these air hoses spring bands are more weapons than clips!

The “word” is that cars of this age can stand having their heater matrix and pipes placed under a “light weight” vacuum. Ie these kits will never achieve “hard” vacuums, just a low enough depression to be able to drag back in the quantity that you dropped out. I played safe and collected all the old coolant so that I had a reference point/capacity for refilling. That worked okay, more surprising was that my puny compressor managed to pull the system down, and do it quite quickly.

Constant tension pipe clips - I've probably got too much free time and maybe free space in my garage, but I have blundered on a tool/product that sells on Temu, that is essentially a clip for slipping over an "opened" constant tension pipe clip, that keeps it open/expanded so that you can take your pliers off that clip and move onto the next one. I'm just saying that in case anyone feels the need to add them to their Christmas list! Quite crafty at times these Chinese chappies. On the other hand, "parking" a constant tension clip along the pipe where it will not cause any trouble is what I've done in the past, so saves filling a space in my garage with these aids. Edit:- back on topic, I've only ever used a coolant vacuum kit when replacing coolant on my car, and will probably use it again on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS - soon.

I'd agree, buy a new set and replace them one at a time, I still have that job to do on my own car VAG Indie had dropped the subframe when replacing the engine mountings, and did not replace any of these subframe bolts! I quickly bought a new set, but not done that yet, I must try harder!

From memory, Skoda fitted a different gearbox mounting to at least Fabia, but for some reason VW used 6Q0 199 555 AR for the 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS with 6MT and 6QO 199 555 AS for the TDI engined cars, now I think that it is the "AS" version that is the correct replacement part for the 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT. Maybe check the part number of your gearbox mounting if your car feels like its engine/gearbox mounting is a bit too loose/free to move for your liking.

Well, my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS started making rubbery noises at power on/power off when driving, I forced VW dealer to sort this out, first action was to remove this mounting and smoother it with copper grease(?!) - a directive from VW Group Tech Resources and so the only first action to take on warranty cars, and so replace all the fixings that had been removed - I demanded a copy of the work sheet! Well that worked very well - for maybe 2 weeks, so on the second visit, I left a printed document with info taken from someone on this forum who lives in Denmark/Sweden - and in that area, VW Group advise that the mounting is replaced with the TDI version - and that is what my VW dealer did, but as they had charged VW already for a new set of bolts, the latest bolts were reused! That was some back ground info - I'd always make the effort to only fit new bolts in this location and others. Other info, probably not relevant though, during that first "fix these rubbery noises" visit to my VW dealer, the tasks carried out included checking the lower front subframe bolts - maybe 6 years later I found a bolt head from a front subframe bolt on my garage floor - probably one that they had repeated the TTY action on aided by its location meaning that road moisture/water and so salty road moisture/water gets thrown up and down into the area where the front 2 subframe bolts fasten into captive/plate nuts, so I quickly bought a new set of these bolts and got my local VW Indie to replace them all and check the alignment. That second tale was maybe offered to make you consider what in some situations can happen when TTY bolts are reused or at least retorqued - though maybe in that case someone stupidly thought that they would add in a bit more torque than the spec askes for to stop thing customer complaining about noises during warranty period!

Is this not a case where some posters are considering a different version of rear calliper that VAG did use on this size of car, but maybe now VAG have extended the use/application of the alloy version for cars that don't have an electric handbrake, and so confusing the OP's issue?

Yes, as already said, many TRW callipers are iron, but that model of rear calliper with cable operated handbrake function, in most cars, is alloy. Edit:- getting an iron calliper to go white with a powdery look would take some doing - rusty red/brown is the norm. Second Edit:- I do agree about the weight though, I still have my original one that I replaced with a Pagid one - and no need to hand body the old one, but it is aluminium alloy body type.

I'm sure that the Girling/Lucas/TRW rear callipers with built in handbrake function are aluminium alloy, if is ATE that tend to be cast iron. When corroded the cast iron ones go rusty coloured and the aluminium alloy ones go a nasty powdery white - as in one of these pictures. Edit:- I do agree that this issue is purely cosmetic, made to look worse by the paint coating cracking and separating from the alloy body and allowing moisture/salty moisture to get in and get trapped in there and "do its work", I've never had that happen with the original basic coating which might even be transparent originally. Second Edit:- just to prove the point, I've just been out to check the same rear callipers on my wife's car using a magnet, fronts iron - but I knew that, rears alloy - is what I already thought. My own car does have iron front and rear callipers though - but I also put them to the test with a magnet!

I had one start to leak on my 2011 S4 and that hurt my wallet quite a bit, as unfortunately some of the ones for the higher powered cars are not available from the aftermarket - well at least for "like for like" designs. So in for a penny and in for a pound, I ended up needing to order in a pair and get my local VAG Indie to replace them as they are a bit tricky to do at home - raise and support the engine and dropping the subframe assembly, to create space on all the V6 engines. Edited

If it is coming out of an engine mounting, it should be showing up where it is escaping from, the hydraulic fluid that escaped from my 2011 Audi S4 engine mounting was black, and unfortunately there was only Audi genuine parts available that were "like for like" for that car and so other ones, a bit hard on my wallet, but maybe forgotten about now, almost! You can always hope that there are some good quality aftermarket hydraulic engine mountings available for your car. In the end I just wiped off what I could, it was mainly showing up on the S4's aluminium subframe, and the under covers hide that, what I initially spotted was a wet/moist looking "thing" - that was the first time that I had eye balled these engine mountings, I found that during an annual service/inspection, so caught it early before that engine mounting failed completely.

I think that it is lack of real regular work that kills the rear discs, don't get me wrong, I prefer discs on the rear as they are easy to service, but rot does tend to set in earlyish, my wife's 2015 Polo's rear discs started looking nasty at the 5 or 6 year point but they seemed to work and the pads were still okay thickness wise, then last February, the RHS rear calliper started seizing and needed replacing to keep the car off the road as short a time as possible, and by then one side had worn pads, so a new set of pads and discs to finish that job off! Later in the year, while swopping winter tyres off to summer tyres on, I serviced the front brakes - the inner pads on one side were wearing with a wide lip = corrosion on the hidden inner face - so the front discs and pads got replaced! Mileage now is 54,000miles. My older daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra, hd nasty looking rear discs from about the 2 years old point, at about the 3.5 year point, I felt the need to replace the worn rear pads, due to the rough surface of the discs, this April I felt the need to replace the pads again, so also replaced the discs, hopefully these Pagid discs will stay in better condition longer than the originals, its total mileage is now roughly 18,000miles, front brakes still okay thankfully.

Getting the brakes serviced, or doing that yourself if you are able, is something that too many owners avoids getting done, and ending up with brake issues tends to be the norm, this s is made worse typically by servicing is centred round the engine only - and a quick safety check around the car - and maybe highlighting any potential for "more business". If you feel brave enough to check how hot things have become, you could check the centreish wheel surface with the back of your hand or even a quick poke of the calliper, but the discs could be a bit hot to contact!

I've never ever had a leased car, but I would have thought that all maintenance would be either included in the cost, OR, an absolute demand clause included that made proper evidence of all necessary maintenance having been completed, especially during any warranty period - including any changes to periodicity of preventative maintenance which would be caught during the usual servicing. Doing that would be a lot easier than chasing current or past leasers for "out of pocket" expenses after a warranty rejection.

Depending on what you want/expect from a cabin filter, from the Mann website, there should be 3 options for the same size/shape of pollen/cabin filter, for years now I've been fitting the Frecious version in our cars. At one stage or time, cars with manual AC were factory fitted with basic filters, cars with auto AC were fitted with carbon coated filters, but it is up to you if a basic one is good enough for you, or you want the carbon coated option to try to kill some of the incoming air smells or even the Frecious version that adds in supposedly capturing even more things that might annoy you. As well as Mann, there is Valeo who provide the same options as Mann. If your car has a VW Group filter and it is a Mann one, as well as the VW Group identifications on it, there will be the Mann model number.

That sounds promising - I should end up looking at the ones in my wife's 2015 55,000 miles Polo 1.2TSI 110PS soon, after I pay an indie to replace the cam belt etc, just to be safe.

I've taken off the original factory fitted nuts on a couple of cars, and the locking tangs were still intact - I wasn't very impressed with that, the only ones that I took off and they broke as expected, was a 2002 VW Polo - the one's that didn't break were on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza and a 2015 VW Polo - still the same part number .

I don't suppose that you had the time or reason to check the 4 inlet valve areas - really just to check on the level of carbon build up on the backs of the inlet valves as they don't get washed by petrol on these DI engines. From your pictures, it does look a lot like the short final length of flexible pipe could have been offered as a spare part, so as it's a low pressure fuel line at that point, what you have done sounds like being a good enough fix. That price scares me a bit when you consider that my wife's slightly older car's price of that delivery pipe is listed as being twice the listed price of your one - unless that is an error in the parts listing I use.