Aj77

You need to be able to support the engine and gearbox when your lowering the gearbox out. Other than that a lot of taking parts off. Align the clutch plate properly, torque up, and maybe replace the inner oil seal while your there. Might need a ball joint separator also. If you don't replace the flywheel your meant to get it skimmed also but that's debatable. Not sure if you need to replace slave cylinder.

Yes it was dark and I guessed though the T30 did loosen 3 of the bolts they must have been a bit loose anyway but hence why I rounded one of them as it was a bit rusted also. I know now to double check. Have ordered an M6 bit.

Great work, thanks for the help! That looks right. Also looks like the fasteners are M6 spline not T30 torx. Very similar though.

This is what I thought was the EGR but I also see a component on top of the inlet manifold which could be it. So the first 2 pics are what I initially thought and the 3rd pic the other possibility though both may be wrong. It was dark and I only spent a few minutes looking.

It's 1KZ or 1FZ I think or something close, weird but that diagram isn't the correct diagram. My EGR has 4 X T30 fasteners and the 2 X hoses and electrical connector. I'm pretty sure I'm looking at the right thing, it's attached to the side of the cylinder block, maybe not though. I can take a pic? As you would expect one of the T30 was rusted and it's now rounded out so have ordered a T35 and hopefully that will work otherwise another headache. Apart from that seems a very easy job.

P0401 code. Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system flow is insufficient. im just going to clean it.

Octavia II 1.6 FSI 2008.

From a quick search it seems a big job, has anyone done it or got a link to how to do it?

You can buy a hub with bearing pressed in for not much more than bearing on its own.

The other way is to jack your car up as much as you can, put large ring spanner on nut so that hopefully the free end of spanner is touching the ground then lower jack so that weight of car is pushing spanner into ground. Obviously you'd need to make sure the spanner was correct side so as not to tighten bolt. You can also put strong block of wood or block under free end of spanner.

I tried jack trick with caliper carrier bolt, I found the spanner would slip off at a certain tension but if your able to secure the spanner a bit to the jack then very good method.

Why not try a 30mm ring spanner and hammer, that's a lot of force.

Why not just buy new bolts they cost about £10 for the pair, by the time a week had past they would have arrived?

It's almost easier to cut the heads off the bolts with a Dremel, you'll go through a few blades but you should really be replacing the bolts anyway so it's no loss on bolts and it's easy to do, takes about 10-15mins to cut a head off.

Interesting, I can't imagine the boot, no matter how aged, preventing the piston sliding in are you sure it wasn't the O seal preventing it as in my case? Yep I bought a repair kit on eBay for £5. The only question I couldn't answer was, does it matter which way the seal went in, it could only be one of two ways and there didn't seem any difference on either edge on the seal such as width or markings. I know this seal contracts and expands allowing the piston to move in and out so a point like this could be crucial. Maybe you know?

I only replaced the O seal, that was what was preventing the piston winding back in, not the dust boot though I changed that also. I didn't want to mess around with replacing the spring etc. The old seal didn't look damaged or warped but something must have happened(expanded or something) to it as when new seal was put in then the piston wound back in fine, although I did use the red grease on the new seal but never tried it with old seal though I'm pretty sure that wouldn't have made a difference with the old seal, I'll guess I'll never know but maybe I'll take it apart one time and find out because I'm curious to know the effect of the red grease, it's good stuff whatever it is.

The heads of the bolts had to be cut off then you can just hammer the carrier off as it's only theaded on one end.

If the clip is broken on the hub is this replaceable of do you need a new hub housing?

If you give me year/model, I can find you part number.

Are you sure those pics are right because this eBay seller is selling what I think I need and it looks different to the pics you posted? I think the 54 in the pic is in the slot to it's right it's 9pts. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Audi-Volkswagen-VW-Seat-Skoda-Locking-Wheel-Nut-Key-54-9pt-Spline-Rib/123981070307?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item1cddd8ffe3:g:2AkAAOSwfEJeNzye&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkp2NA0WuhQytmt4dbStg00IFJMedtq3rfP5SzfEkjDkXsp%2FzWjyee7%2FFYUB2gqpXR1xzPY13dXvwfeL15d8EAfkgpD%2B%2FufxYYVyMWGmEGzVdBNG7jSaDP6Br0wpQbNVteByQS%2FjYIsa6uNSlj98jyGJ4TPd5t2ob0Ef1hzcxoMF3peu0H9hwRYJJ5M5FaNW9P2Z6p0acZy1hQf9DPOX1NLxWnVj7CzerAXeN9kwsQyL0Px%2BdptHbmtfG4R7CkAQSdMbyYIyMCKJ%2FszI2BjJD%2BALV6q4TIxc5ZQx1oTbzsrFcm6nvqrAVYo2yot9q6CS3x7skjBg3Nr2tasWeuefvqbk3D03Ah7peCRMkEj9uvMsV9SRkXo9Xf9CuGZTnqEHBzd%2B%2BlVwxGIAUMcc7yFxGwsW%2BPyJBQ25UBSXe7HrcRzJS3KbCgbO15cXy3aqwQ6zfOi%2B3yktO5ks%2BADTa4zNkFptMtUdZHSfTF8DX3NhpwQcuFpYqM0RUyvkdHcvrOb0yq2KAoE4FNZZAhbchrQQIRQ3skAnt5U37Cc2ZSpScjaKhyttTmGO9vZnBuHTd31mj%2BXHVbqyW5eYsLUoFptxJb4Wz1Ammq6dtqTgGQFPxXxNWBcnRiMSDvl9QQw9bMOkddhyABYKZMMfJenOppptGSjDrY8BKVF5XN4wL1bvu1hY%2BgzDIYFOyZYyJIcF3%2BnLQ4pQeYo08Co5FUw1L4XyK4dWd9Hq88Tv14aFB6Vzz3Suv4velXynned2pNRGxklXNxAS5W69ydVffe%2BVLXePQNqw%3D%3D|cksum%3A1239810703079705e7d85fd84493b15f7ab206127f0f|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2334524

Thanks, looks like it no. 54. I'm going to replace these security bolts with regular bolts, I'm sure a wheel thief can easily get their hands on a set of locking nuts like the picture you posted.

As you know you need the exact code and even the dealer doesn't know this0, it can only be worked out via a picture . Would you be able to tell which socket I need from this picture?

I changed both rear discs and pads, the rear right abs sensor was disconnected and has now been reconnected and the fault light dissapeared from the dash. But I now have both Electromechanical power steering and traction control engine lights showing on the dash. Apparently these can be the result of a disconnected battery which I did remove overnight to change. But the car did feel a bit unstable after changing the brakes, I put this down to new pads breaking in and it has indeed got a lot better, I'd probably say up to 95% after a short amount of driving but why are these fault lights still on? How can I check or test?

Yes, I'm still a novice at DIY repairs and I understand now that 256mm would likely work no problem.

It's definitely getting smoother each mile I drive it, also weirdly the mpg seem to have increased up to 10mpg in non urban areas.