ApertureS

Nope... this is the price... the glass has the photochromatic gel inside to dim electronically and its even more for a side assist mirror glass. There is a new craze of people stealing mirror glasses now as they are between £300-400! crazy prices and no one makes a suitable aftermarket replacement.

People often go by the easy to read 'dumbed down' table that shows 1year, 10k.... 2years, 20k.... ect... and at 40k/4years it shows DSG so people assume that. Depending on box some have lifetime oil, some have 40k with filter, others 80k no filter. None technically have a timed interval. When i say dumbed down - generally for the front of house sales rep without any knowledge on cars but lots of knowledge of selling and graphs

A LSD differential into a gearbox where the clutches wear heavily under general light use and the gearbox itself is intended for light use... not a good idea id say.

Hi there, If you take a look at the below link there is a post relating to VCDS and a map of owners. Contact the one closest to you and they may offer their services. The thing to note is, generally with a front assist radar fault. It is not a job of 'clearing codes' it is a safety system and faults need to be investigated, often the system wont clear faults without a calibration using specialist tools and a jig. Generally called ADAS radar calibration. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

That’s not a vw part number sadly so possibly can’t get on its own

If you have a separate subwoofer it’s done through the canton amplifier which is under the left hand seat.

No is the simple answer. canton will use a most network and I don’t believe there are any aftermarket options that will transmit/receive/convert the light pulses.

That’s because people use wd40 which is useless… and is a ‘perfect product for nothing’ when there are products that do what they claim a million times better but on the downside of not doing everything in one can a mix of cheap power steering fluid and acetone works wonders and another one I enjoy is getting the bolt/nut red hot and dabbing in with a candle, the paraffin wicks down the threads and helps a tonne.

Just treated myself to the brake setup from an Audi S3 front and rears. When the parts arrive and get painted youll get photos

Yeah the price increase is crazy! Makes it hard for me to compete with dealer pricing on DSG servicing!

Sorry to burst the bubble but genuine oil from tps is around £20 a litre meaning the oil alone is £120, then the filter and new washer you are looking at roughly £160 for the genuine parts from tps. I very much wish it was £85 for the parts but not a hope in hell of that. The only reason dealers are so competitive on the price is they are partially subsidized and also buy the oil in massive amounts.

I’d say that’s probably corrupt map data and swap codes. First thing I’d be doing is installing newest software, perform an SVM to bring any missing swap codes and datasets back and then installing the latest maps. Most of this can only be done with the main dealer software odis - not that an independent can’t have it too though.

If you have the 6 speed DQ250 I offer it for with a online service history update and print out; £150 using oe spec parts £239 using genuine parts (I believe dealers are £250/260 now but may be wrong) Edit: Skoda charge £257.06 near me.

I would be checking the entry points in this area which are; The rear vents Rear lamp seals Tailgate seal Rear quarter if estate Rear door seal Sunroof drain if it has one. The best way to check is lock you or someone in the boot with a torch and spray the car with a hose and see where it runs in to. Or the other option if you like to vape.... tape over the rear vents and turn the hvac to full blast, shut yourself in the car and your ears might pop, but get someone to listen from the outside for whistling or if not, blow smoke/vape in the areas it may leak and see if it escapes on the outside.

None of this is plug and play. You will need the main dealer software ODIS which costs thousands of pounds or know someone or a dealer that is willing to do component protection and immobiliser reset in their car park. If you put your location on your profile it will assist us with directing you to possible people that can do it. After that the rest can be done with something like VCDS, im sure other software works too but ive not personally used it.

Welcome to the forum. Some more context in a post like this would be very helpful? Do you have twin or tri climate control? What temp are the rear vents running at? Have you scanned for fault codes? What sensors are you looking for? If it’s the temperature sensors they are scattered everywhere and there are a lot of them. some in vents, others in the heater box itself, humidity sensors, air quality sensors, flap position sensors

There you go, saves going through links and downloading stuff.

I mean that’s very over simplified. Upgrading the brakes making them larger/vented/grooved basically whatever you do to increase the surface area doesn’t always mean you will stop any quicker than before. You can happily lock the wheels up even with the cheapest pads and discs on the market and this is why good tyres matter no matter what brakes. there is no difference in the lock up of big brakes vs small brakes, 0 wheel rotation is not what we are trying to achieve as then the tyres are doing the stopping of the vehicle, not the brakes. performance brakes are better for a few reasons, mainly heat dissipation, you won’t get anywhere near as much brake fade with better materials and a larger surface area. You then have gas build up, prolonged use of the brakes causes the friction material to break down and release gases so it reduces braking efficiency as pads aren’t making full contact. Brake upgrades 90% of the time come down to heat, just cause brakes are bigger doesn’t mean you’ll notice any difference under normal driving.

Not necessarily. I’m on the hunt for full spec front seats where the airbags have gone off so nice and cheap. im after full electric front seats with ventilation, heating and massage. plan is to strip the full spec seats and rebuild on mine to have the first full spec sportline seats (sportline can’t have ventilation) so will be custom.

Standard discs will be vented, even the rears on a 280 are vented as standard. im assuming by vented you mean either grooved, drilled or maybe something else?

Dont get brembo! Terrible aftermarket pads! Just take a look at everyone complaining of brake noise and squeaking, 99% of the time it comes back to brembo aftermarket brakes. Personally id get ATE as that is what was fitted from the factory.

Have you set a seat position for both user profiles on memory 1? if both profiles match for seat memory 1 they won’t move. I believe they should be linked to profile, not key. each key can be set to a different user profile though

First thing i would be doing is finding out EXACTLY what they have done for diagnosis, speak to the tech, write it all down, post it on here. A copy of the faults that relate to this issue and how exactly they came to the conclusion that there is a fault like this.... 50k miles and 3 years is no where near the time for a dpf to be full of ash (not soot), so what kind of failure do they suspect from the dpf, is it a collapsed honeycomb or are they just guessing....

Wow... for a main dealer that sounds like they havent got a clue what theyre doing! Changing everything because they have no ideas. The first thing you mention of small movements at a time is either a calibration or mismatch signal fault, fairly easy to find with live data. When did the fault first start occuring and under what conditions? Any previous tailgate faults? Has anyone tried a calibration using odis?

Whos been playing the parts cannon with your car and have you actually taken it to anyone competent for a diagnosis? Also, whats the actual fault. And might i suggest adding your vehicle and location to your profile so people can help you out more accurately