leolito

I suppose he finally managed to convert his SuperB in a spaceship and is currently out of range of the low orbit internet ... 🙂

I use on mined Android auto on the front USB-C and have in the central cubby a USB-A with a couple of flash drives loaded with different music. Once in a while it does "freeze", or become silly in not recognizing the phone, but other than that is OK. Pano roof you can search for discolouration (?) in the trim, which would show where water/humidity has stained it. Also, there should be a record of cleaning/unclogging the drain pipes, you can ask the dealer for that.

Tks! JR, don't mind frequent flushing, I am old school and do not believe in "lifetime wizardy". Obviously this lot of G13 must find a way to get rid of ....

Thanks Setesh, mine is '21 indeed, but it does not say anywhere what type of coolant has been used. I see this stash of G13 will have to go elsewhere 😁 and will look for G12evo then. Thanks for the heads' up ...

My fellow 280s, I am ashamed to be unable to find the proper time to udate you guys on my whereabouts, but more about the car itself, which continues to tick all the needs in the list! I also have had little for it as well .... As per previous discussions, I guess by summer's end I will be around the 55k km mark, I wish I could have replaced the coolant earlier but that this year is packed with priority issues that need resolution.... I got from a disgruntled customer a full load of 6lt of Dynamax G13, looks purplish. My car I cannot guess what the heck is it, looks darkish red/browninsh. I want to get rid of it. Are you aware G13 is compatible backwards or I need a very very very dedicated flush instead of a "normal" flush - meaning difference between making one water load and spending the entire day at it ... Anything else besides the coolant that I should buy? I am planning also to take down the Haldex pump and check the strainer, I will buy the necessary kit. DSG will wait until 60k, or when I have time after the summer. When I changed to summer tires - must show pics - I've noticed the rear left inner pad was down to like ~1mm hard to measure, because I did not take it out, but I sense is not a lot. The outer one was more, and right hand caliper similar situation. I will not take chances and replace them. Travs, guys, options for rear calipers? I prefer less brake dust, I do not mind soft compound rather wear them and replace em, than leaving 'em to harden and cristallize/crack. Waiting so I can make some order. Thanks!

Not on the Superb - yet - but I have had both Heko and ClimAir on a few cars. Nothing that makes one stand out from the other. Make sure you chose a model that goes "inside" the window and not glued outside, they look ghastly. Let us know how it goes, I am also thinking form time to time ... I am also a draughtlover, two wheels, four wheels, whatever 😁

I've found this website by chance, was surprised to find a wrong part code, searching for the torch holder to be ready when Aperture will decide to modify one for me 😁 and the skoda parts site had it wrong ... here is the closest I can get to ETKA 🙂

That is no sign of guarantee, a little amount of coolant can "stain" a large quantity of water. This said, the water, when pressurized, holds its own temperature wise, so no 100% culprit to be found there, even if the mixture is old - which is no good thing regardless. Not a Skoda, but I had same problem with a partially blocked radiator, until I blew the fan and destroyed it (among other things). Replaced the radiator, never seen high temps since ....

He IS the Man 😊

Sorry for the typos, I've got a failing keyboard in the laptop and sometimes I see them too late ...

Search here, you need to put your car data to narrow options to fit your match https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda

uh, search in the "projects" seciton, some fellas have done upgrades and you can get ideas there!

I also have 17s on 225/55 like Martini Racing above, and they are fairly OK in winter here. We had a fair shade of snow, and mostly wet near zero temps, and the response was very good. As in most parts in Italy, the temp ranges are very high, we are since little over a month with near 30 deg C and during winter we have more that a month in sub-zero deg C. All seasons are fine to use BUT they deteriorate rapidly. Did not want to risk, on an car I still do not know. In Italy is the same with the requirements to have chains or suitable tires. I have parents and relatives in the North and they used allseasons and they are fine, but there is no skiing trips, long winter trips , or anything, My relatives in the RM region and friends in the Islands use only summers, but they do not travel into mountain/snowy regions, and in certain areas they have not seen snow in years .... but everything can chance! One last thing to consider: in Italy laws are anal and sometimes enforced with attentive detail - this is subjective to the officer that stops you, of course. So if you put tires that are NOT in your car set be aware you are risking - like me with the 225/55 mentioned above, but is a gamble you have to take. Also, if you go work there and reside for more than an year, you might be required/forced to register your car in Italy, and the initial inspection might point that out.

Don't bother with ebay, you can purchase directly from their side. I've known and used their products since years and they are top-notch! I think 5-6 sets over the years. Couple of these are in cars that live outside all-year round, and there is no discolouration or stain in the material, oldest set is like 4 years now. Also, one of the vehicle has constant "put on put off" for the washing and both clips and metal ring frame are up to the job. I can only say good things about it. Plus in case of side blinds, they cover very well the entire window, that sometimes the original ones do not do because of their winding mechanism. My car came with the Skoda accessories rear ones (third windows and tailgate), and their finish is not much better or different than the Car Shades ones. They fit is less pleasant, since the tailgate part is one-piece, whereas the Car Shades ones are always 2-piece, which makes it easier for fitting and removing. The downsides are that are not that fast to remove quickly, you need to "learn the bends" for right fitting, you also better do it yourself because sometimes the clips fly away and while you can replace them this takes time, the bag to hold the shades should stay also in the trunk in that case. Compared to that the OE winding up/down blinds are much easier to use, but also they require a specific door trim, whereas these are applicable everywhere. They are also somewhat pricey, but sometimes the only alternative .... Before I mounted these I had the suction cup ones, which are a hit and miss affair. The "sock" that is also outsie is ghastly and never considered, another thing to attract dust and dirt and scratch paintwork. Tinting the windows is also, as suggested, a very good option, but you have to see each case. Three of the cars I have with the shades (they are not mine, family and relatives!) they do not want tint so blinds are they only option. Very dark tint is perfect, but it has other negative aspects.

Yeah, I think I did not express myself well. True maybe the "pure service list" does not call for removal of the component and proper clean up, but from a professional standpoint - especially for a known weak point - would be appreciated to have the approach mentioned by logiclee above. Certainly is left to the people of the dealers' themselves, which is a pity in itself. In any case I have known about cars out of warrantly shown neglect, which means even the basic procedures were not attended to, and from this point of view I am "happy" I got one more year of having to be enslaved to an official dealership .... this reminds me of making a list of things ... or perhaps not 😁

Just to say hi and sorry for owning the crowd lots of updates ... been buried in work and other tasks that have kept me away from here, and the Superb as well, I might add ☹️ Lack of time means also lack of preventative maintenance I wanted to so bef the summer holidays like the coolant which has a orange/brownish color so I think is time it goes, although I cannot understand if it is G12, evo, or G13 .... Also I want to drop the Haldex pump and this time check the strainer, as I do not trust the dealer... the coolant also I prefer do it myself, unfortunately I might not be able to do this in the next two weeks before the holidays, but will have to be afterwards .... I promise photos, soon! 😁

Good luck, hope you find the way to do it. I only can link you the diagram of how a second battery sits in the SIII. I however have no idea how is in reality. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/9/915/915010

Oh I am done with these "finds" ... I spent decades buying neglected objects that became projects, made them nice and then ended up having to move over and selling them for a fraction of the price, or worse, still some are around in parts or semi-built and need to fix them up to "dismiss" them properly ... time, money, space .... lately especially "time". The Superb broke that mold, finally, and I am not going back! This said I also enjoy an EV when I get the chance to it, sometimes I wish the 280 was at least hybrid, but then there would have been some other drawback. Important is always to be able to have a choice! 😉

Well, true this "cash thing" has always a way to squirrel away, so it might be that in 12 months time will be posting here not even remembering there was any 😁 While is difficult to resist the allure of the "easy" EV driving, is the rest of the package that is not always satisfying. I made recently a +400km journey driving a i4 BMW and it was as easygoing as it can be, but that would not push me to get such car, or any similar, in any case.... The trick term I have not noticed is mentioning "track days" "toy thing" and such. If you are to be 'stuck' with two cars and one MUST be a plaything, true then the Superb becomes cumbersome, although it can BOTH be a 360-degree all-rounder vehicle which can also provide some play, albeit with certain limitations (kinda my S6 used to be). Now the balance of that is what you have to look into ... I forgot to mention earlier, most repairs, mods or fixes will cost less than a car replacement ...

Well, you've been through "big" and "small" cars so besides a question of choice (me, I do prefer a larger car to drive, in general), the rest of the items are more on the logistics/economical aspect of things ... say some things might be affected more by the size (parking, tax, etc.) some less. You can give a % factor rating to each aspect, and see what direction it goes. Then you add your "personal" factor and you see how that bias the result. Personally, I think my 280 will be the last larger/powerful ICE car I will be needing, so will be very careful to give it away ... but this is me. You only live once (twice only Bond). 🙂

Perhaps true, but I still feel that not every clutch-ing and de-clutch-ing when entering/exiting Coast Mode is really and absolutely necessary. More wear on components which are already not the most reliable in their class .... Not to mention waste of brake material instead of using the engine to slow down .... Personally I've grown to dislike it immensely, and often drive in Sport just not to have it. Know that it can be coded out of Normal, but still in the "to do" list ....

Hope is the right area .... I am making some garage clean-up, I have this to offer ... I do not own a Diesel now nor I plan to, so I think is time for a new engine bay. Is a Tunit box for Diesels, a piggy-back box with its harness that sits in between the OE wiring loom. It has some settings for increase the level of tune. I bought it when I had my Wrangler (looking now at the receipt I still can't believe what I paid for it!) and, when sold, I put it in a sealed ziploc and actually lost track of it during a moving, but now is back! 😁 It has seen less than an year in the car, as you can see from the conditions of the harness/adapter to the car. Said adapter could be compatible with other cars, this should be checked with Tunit. I think they can sell independently that. Prices vary wildly from 50/60 to over a hundred, but for a quick sale I offer it at 75GBP and this includes shipping to any address in England, Wales, and some in Scotland (you need to tell me before I can confirm). This is through my courier branch within the UK so no extra fees or taxes, just a bit longer delivery. Available for additional information. Thanks!

How were the pads? From the looks of the discs, it would seem very little portion of the pad was actually working ... might be worth check proper caliper operation.

Again, I would not do what you seem to be wanting to do 😁 Spend money elsewhere first, to make "racket" there is always time. Occy, removing backboxes on a V8 makes a hell of a racket, perhaps acceptable if you are stupid and in your 20s, but it grows old quickly afterwards, or you are just old and stupid....also. Me and my mates tried every possible configuration on RV8 RRs, with or without cats, with or without center muffler, with or without backboxes .... it offers different results for different tastes 😁 This is without cats, center muffler and no backboxes 😜

I offer a few options: a) dismount the tires if they are still good, and for the money that new steel wheels cost, get them and you are back on the road in no time. The old wheels have multiple purposes as "stands" or other weight items, before going to the scrap, which you might get some pennies as well. b) if you want to "restore", as mentioned above, and are concern about their condition, the best course of actions is to dismount the tires, bring the wheels to a good tire center and have them checked for distortion or unbalance, and eventually repair them. Then you go to sandblast them, and have them powdercoat with a proper treatment which will prevent rust and will last much longer. Obviously this is recommended only if the wheels are valuable enough to justify the hassle and expense. An alternative to powdercoating is paint, but then you need someone that will paint professionally and with desire, and I would add have him/her put a double layer of lacquer on top, to increase resistance to damaging action. c) if you have a looooot of time to waste, endulge yourself in hours of destroying your hands, fingers, and equipment in using a wire brush. Make sure you get good, thick gloves, you will need several wire brushes and avoid cheap ones from the bricolage as they literally disintegrate and fly off everywhere. In anycase, make you wear protective glasses, ALWAYS! Keep your eyes safe from harm, they are among the most expensive "items" in our body ... You are likely to wear and trash out a drill for this purpose, so keep this in mind. If you use a battery powered make breaks if you see battery gets too warm. After that, provided you manage to remove ALL the rust all around the rims, is time to use a proper ground/epoxy base and then paint. If you do it by brush, depending on your skills if will range from horryfing to acceptable. I think I was clear in illustrating how useless the entire process is. I have wasted many an hour and many a piece of equipment trying to save things undeserving to be saved. Hope these words are useful to others to avoid wasting time, money, and potentially hurting themselves. Last but not least, a wheel that has reached this condition denotes years of neglect. To avoid getting to this stage, it would be advisable to have wheels cleaned regularly, especially after the bad season. When in the initial corrosion phase, the simple application of a corrosion converter like Wurth/Fertan and others, can minimize the damaging action of rust, and then even a simple spray/brush application of a product like Hammerite can keep it at bay. When it arrives to this condition, is a much more involving "saving action", and most of the times, hopeless unless radically approached (sand/powder, for example).