leolito

Interesting topic. I also judge stupidly unacceptable cheaping out of a mirror ... in my soon-to-be-gone 2000 P38 Range Rover, both dim, and both dip when in reverse ... oh well.

I thought the valve was only mounted on early 280s until FL. I think you could look into it, as it fits to original looking tailpipe muffler.

Time for summer rubber ... I first round of inquiries show some brands/models I have not practical experience with. Any opinions? Lower on the pricing scale for a 95 load index are BFGOODRICH ADVANTAGE 2 225/50 R18 95V FR FIRESTONE ROADHAWK 2 225/50 R18 95W Mid price CONTINENTAL UltraContact 225/50 R18 95W FR And higher up the rest of the crowd PIRELLI P7 CINTURATO 225/50 R18 95W RFT (K1) CONTINENTAL PremiumContact 6 225/50 R18 95W SSR MICHELIN PRIMACY 4 225/50 R18 95V FR ZP GOODYEAR EAGLE F1 ASYMM 3 225/50 R18 95W FR BMW RFT There are also '99'load index but I am afraid these are mostly for suv and thus hard and heavy. I will be running in 225/50-18 (discussed in other posts). I would prefer to avoid runflats because of "harsh" experience, but might not have a choice. I've asked for other options. Use: long, relatevely 'brisky' journeys, not to much city, highway or extraurban roads, surface sometimes great, sometimes the Moon .... 🫣 Thanks!

I stand corrected, it is 0W-30. Stick to an oil your dealer would use - here is VW OE or Castrol Edge, nothing else.

Thanks! I used Castrol Edge 5W-30, which is dealer accepted at my latitudes.

😲 that means the art of 'levitation' to enter/exit the car and also telekinesis to operate its commands?? say it, it was Gandalf himself who owned the car before and left all those spells on it, then? 😁 Sorry to distract the topic, I am having a bad period and this eases my mind.... @Sharkeyboy the connector in the photo is very similar, but I am not sure 100% is the same. In a couple of hours I will be around where my car is, I will kneel 😁 and see if I can make a photo of it has to look like.

Ask for a photo of the connector that goes into your pedal, and compare with yours, at least your get the "hardware" part sorted out. It is simply a matter to lay down close to the pedal and you will spot easily the connector, above the pedal itself. There is a red tab that needs to be pulled, in order for the connector to be detached. Now I love to add always some tips: it pays to do it when the car is clean inside, as you need to dwell around the feet area 😁 depending on your physical shape and dexterity, you might need to employ the "kneel before Zod" position, in that case, it pays to have ALSO the outside of the car clean, as you will hover around the sills area, which notoriously attract ... dirt. Except on JR's Gandalf, of course if you struggle with the red tab, which for some reason someone thought it was a connector with such high stresses that needed double locking, use a small screwdriver. Be gentle as there pieces, while immensedly strong when locked, are fragile and brittle. Except the screwdriver, I've done all of the above, especially getting dirty mistiming when to play around with the pesky connector. Have a rag or a towel if your needs don't like bare concrete. How I like to play with cars ... 😄🙃 Now for the uninitiated: Kneel before Zod JR's Gandalf, with its special "antidirt/antidust" coating, a secret he won't reveal 😄

Well, the OE filter has the paper (in my case) engraved with VW symbols, even if produced by another company. I know so, because I've done exactly as you plan to do, inserting a "half" service while i still got the warranty to expire🙃

While car is within warranty I would not use non-original parts, so I recommend you buy the OE VAG oil filter instead of the Mann. Is not because of the quality, it is simply because if something happens and this is revealed, having your warranty voided for a few euros difference in a simple part would be very silly ... 😉

Yes, I say to all please always check paint by codes and not by names, and keep in mind hues for the color changes sometimes over years, due to different manufacturing processes. Take "historic" colors and they have a difference over the years, Land Rover's classical "Bronze Green" for example. Graham that washer cap looks painted in a totally different color 😁 Find the right tone for paint on a used car can be a nightmare, sometimes paints differ from manufacturer to manufacturer and this is acceptable for a full respray, but for partial will be noticeble. Also, paint "fades" over time due to agents and sun exposure, and when you have it mixed it should be "aged" to match the surrounding paintwork - again, not so relevant if you do full respray or in areas totally different say "front and sides, no roof". But it is tricky. I've worked years with paintshops and it is a real hassle, sorting out the right mix takes a dedicated person, who has a good eye and precise hand ... the "mix" sometimes includes several different ingredients in precise grams. It pays also to "prepare" proper the car ... when I had to have the bonnet replaced on my P38 (not the gun! or the plane!), I went to my guy for polish/detail and I asked him to polish the front half of the fenders, then I went to my preferred paintshop and I asked the person to "match" the paintcode to the fender itself - they have different color stamps in the sunlight, turn the car around and we did it again in the shade, and honestly, once everything was detailed, it is near impossible to spot the difference, on a +20 y.o. car. Also, get always WAY more paint than the one required! An extra always comes handy, especially in the right hue, and it does not deteriorate over time so it can always be used for touching up!

I am one for starters, I have earmarked all the topics on the subject. In hindsight, I shoulda bought an Arteon R ... but I could not bear myself to like it, nor miss the legroom and cargo capacity. Plus I like Czech beer more than German one! 😁 I intend to search more to see who can do this.

I see that code only as "Lava Blue" ... https://skoda-shop-zubehoer.de/original-skoda-lackspray-set-lw5q-blau-metallic_2485.html Paint spray blue Lava metallic |...Paint spray blue Lava metallicColour code W5Q/0F0F.

Really, Martini*? I thought it was just because we were not in UK or around ... I need to find someone who likes to make adaptation play at high level, I had a guy that reconfigured an A8 D3 long time ago but I lost his contact, there must be someone * can't help it, sorry, but every time I see your nick writing something, the mind goes to ... AutocarMartini Racing icons at Goodwood | AutocarThe 2013 Goodwood Festival of Speed boasts the largest-ever collection of Martini race cars ever assembled

Recalibrate yes, I have to get my head out of my butt and see to find some time to get it done, possibily before the next trip, to see how it is. While the slider mod from multiple topics it is mentioned, it appears we are in an unfortunate geographical location, yet ... we will get there, I hope!

This week is detailing polish and ceramic for mine as well. Soon to post some pics when ready! I also took the plunge* and bought the rims, settled on Trinity 18s from Kodiaq, on a brushed/polish finish. It obviously seems I will engage in being VERY careful in driving 😁 * I feel like a featherless chicken, but had to do this sooner or later ... at least the tires were on their last mm so I would have had to spend for them regardless ....

Wht a nightmare for something that should be fairly simple! Now that the season is finishing, I am going to have a go at my neighbour whose workshop is also a Webasto authorized install/service/repair, and see if he can scan my unit and spot anything worth mentioning, since I also have the same calendar problem ....

Good comment above about the springs being "soft", this is also producing excess chassis/body movement which can be detrimental!🙂 I am using DCC almost always on Sport, and i noticed the added rigidity is less of a bother compared with the large, excessive body roll/pitch usually associated with the "Normal/Eco" settings ...

Yeah, mine too was "official" car ... is on detailing now, took me a while to get to that (almost an year!) but oh well. Post photos once done!

I have a similar problem to yours, but so far I have managed with only a couple scrapes, and being very very careful when I enter an uneven patch. I am toying with a crazy idea, very back in my mind, but you could get on to it, and that would be to acquire and install the "Scout" version suspension components, which claims has a higher ground clearance compared to the "normal" models, I think only a few cm, but enough perhaps to clear some stuff.

That is a bit high as consumption goes ... you could try a 10W-40 but I am not very convinced, so take it as a possible option. About fuel, mine on stop-and-go city traffic is also very high on consumption. Luckily so far I swap with another more economical vehicle, but I am actually toying with the idea to go LPG once warranty is out this year. I will make inquiries ...

Very very nice looking color ... one of my favorites!

No, Aperture goes into a category of its own ... he has trascended the "virtuality" and has made those things real 😁 I think if that project car was to make a trip back to CZ more than one engineer would grab his/her head and pull his/her hair ...

I think Bap, like MartiniB and Carlston, are specially designed bots of Skoda to keep us satisfied there is always a solution waiting .... 😁

I leave autohold and I do not get the knocking, although its release is "harsh". I know in the adaptations/coding there was one option for "early/late" release, I tried that and x-mas tree lighted up I had everything on failure ... return to the setting the car came in, errors gone. As yesman wrote above, take it or leave ... can't make it all the way we want! 😁 Since years, I am doing a variation of your process: arrive at destination, level in N, engage handbrake, then lever to P, off. I do it so I make sure there is no "binding" left in the transmission, which is useful especially with some older cars. As an added tranquillity, this way the brakes hold the car, not the gearbox. Consider that the parking pawl is not the greatest strenght in an autobox... Now obviously my experience is from "normal" boxes, never had a DSG before, but I believe the basics are the same ....

Sorry, I kept forgetting and now got warm ... I apologize! How did it go, lately?