BlueWagon

Yeah ok That is a distributor type arrangement so yeah, you'll have to set the timing. Maybe as a first pass look at the crank pulley. Id say its there somewhere Maybe on the flywheel too, under a small cover you unbolt You could try and adjust it for max rpm but Turing the distributor whilr engine running then bring it back until the engine doesn't knock anymore. Pretty crude but might get you going.

What stuff exactly? I would have expected the timing to be controlled by the ecu in a 99 model car. Crank angle sensor sets the mark and the ecu does the rest

Says who? How can they tell? It is possible but I haven't heared of this happening unless fuel was contaminated with water or pump run dry. Maybe poor bleeding procedure? Id be curious if the initial garage had anything to say about what they found when replacing 4 injectors. Why did they fail? How much to replace HP fuel pump? Injectors may be salvageable? Unlikely but worth checking

It almost sounds like either the throttle is being electronically shut off (maybe a dodgy throttle switch/brake switch or the like). Or You are releasing the clutch too fast. What happens if you really really slowly release the clutch but dont put it back in. Does it still stall? If so, I'd say it's got an electronic problem. I had a fairly modern landcruiser which would cut the throttle to idle if the brake was at all pressed. This included when the brake switch was a bit faulty or not adjusted correctly, or for some, when they had a boot slightly resting on the brake. Make sure it's not that, your boot touching the brake a bit. That may cause the ecu to cut the throttle.

How much do they fall away? All the way to stall or just down to 800 rpm or something?

Sounds like a diesel....without turbo they are pretty sluggish. Has it always done this or has it been a recent development? Does it pull ok when moving? What about if you let the revs drop off to say 650 rpm in say second gear then give it some beans? Not entirely sure what you mean by this. Do you mean release the clutch without any throttle? And it doesn't stall? But if you rev it, then it appears to want to stall more? Maybe the throttle sensor is a bit worn, what if you give it heaps of beans, like in 4000 rpm and release the clutch and floor it (smoothly), does that still die right down? Id image a small 2L diesel will die off a fair bit with a load like pulling away, and a caravan would make it really struggle. Maybe it's just a matter of letting the clutch out a bit slower. But again, was it always like this or a new thing? Once I had a landcruiser where the timing was out by a tooth (previous owner didn't time it correctly) at it had bugger all low down torque but was fine at high rpm. Maybe the variable timing isn't quite right (if equipt) or someone has timed it incorrectly.

That doesn't sound that bad. Mine is about 7 on mostly rural roads with very little stop start. That's a 1.4 TSI too. I doubt it's that serious if no error codes and otherwise driving fine. You may need to take the car to a different garage who can do the diagnosis more thoroughly.

I've got a 1.4TSI and it has no vibration at all. Interesting to hear 2 others do. Do you know how your front wheels got buckled? I'd say that and the vibration is related. Maybe rear wheels also buckled. It probably won't be visible. More of a minute bend and balance problem. Maybe a straight edge would show it up. But I wouldn't replace unless the CV boots or wheel bearings are on the way out as well.

Probably not necessary then. I wouldn't bother How low and under what conditions Maybe the gauge sender is cactus Or new thermostat not correctly working Or air in cooling system giving false temp readings When did the low temp issue begin?

Normally close to the battery, and certainly under the bonnet. Google it for an image. Have you checked ALL the fuses etc, inc under bonnet? Modern fusible links are sort of 1cm x 1cm box like fuses in the engine bay fuse box. Where alot of the relays are. Probably fairly high average. Maybe 30-50A. Also, check that you have good contact on all the fuses you have mucked with. Maybe bent a blade connector over or something.

Fusible link on or near battery terminal

Broken or rusted through Very surprised they broke.... I'd replaced with original and wax them to prevent corrosion But as said, they lasted 10 yrs. Not likely to have the car in 10 more yrs

How did you check fuses? Check main ignition one again. Check batter voltage and maybe remove terminal for a while and replace to reset everything.

Makes sense How do you know that? Does the diesel not have one or has yours been removed? If so,by who? When did you start to have problems? If it's been removed then maybe,but if not fitted from the factory then I wouldn't think its a good idea to ake the system more complicated. What makes you think that it's the DSG thermostat and not the engine one?

Makes sense, I guess they only had 80K on them, and the change interval is more than double that. Glad it went ok for you. Probably saved a fair bit doing it yourself too

Maybe it gets exposed to more weather or moisture than the others. Eg parking conditions, water thrown up by front wheels

Is it actually the fan blowing the air or just the pressure caused by driving faster? Sounds like a loose connection, maybe a cold solder in a model. Probably need to tap or wriggle a bunch of connections while parked up to find the culprit.

From what temp to what new temp I'd expect a drop of 5-10 egrees pretty normal Bit surprised the guage shows it but....I thought they were pretty sticky around 90 degrees

Is it really that hard to remove? My petrol one takes about 3 minutes without needing even a jack. Just reach under and undo the torx screws

I don't think you need a bigger oil cooler. You need to refurbish the radiator. Then the coolant will be able to cool the oil more readily

Fair doos Belt idler bearing gone bad.....

Next time it does it, try reving it a bit and see if that helps. How long does it run for? Maybe the timing on the start button is a bit off and it only just cranks for long enough. Presume it's a push button start job. Try holding button down or key in start position for a bit longer??

Doubt a compression issue would be as intermittent as described. I'd think fuel pressure or loose /broken wire connection on something or dirt in crank angle sensor or something like that

What do you call the dash cam....4th party....ha ha Glad you got it sorted

I suspect it will be a very minor bend, not likely visible to naked eye. It may show up in a balancing process but not likely to be cost effective. Do you know how the wheels got buckled?