BlueWagon

Not really sure what you are worried about. The rust is just where the pad doesn't touch the rotors. It's just steel, it will rust. The whole lot rusts, but the pad wears the rust away in the part where it contacts the rotor. Why would you expect to see a change? It's not like your pad has increased its contact area. The wear on the disk is nothing to do with the rust. Brand new rotors will rust in the shop if they weren't coated in light oil

Ac belt slipping, or more likely the ac clutch slipping. Maybe over gassed or change to High pressure switch....

Mmmm...maybe a big hit there once in the past. Mmmm...points to the driveshaft maybe... I'd say with a buckled wheels a bent driveshaft may be the cause

Brake system hardly a natural environment.... Plenty of options of snake oil on the net too...I'd be wary

Is it when cold or warm? Has the car been sitting for a while when this happens or randomly occurring? I think maybe a fuel pressure issue due to fuel leaking back and letting air into the system somehow.

What about 2000 rpm in other gears? If no, then more likely final drive than engine. Same if no vibration in neutral at 2100 rpm as asked above. Maybe it's just how buzzy the diesel is.

One could also argue that seeing as condensation is generally fresh, demineralised water, it won't be conductive, so won't show up in a conductivity test. You need ions, so from salt or corrosion products to see the moisture as a conductivity reading, and without knowing the TDS and the composition of those ions, it's a pretty random number. Personally I'd just change the brake fluid from time to time.

Did it look good straight after they changed the fluid? Maybe they did change the fluid in the reservoir but didn't flush the lines

Can you give any more info? Does it happen every time,? What about accelerate more or less? What happens if you rev the engine in neutral etc?

Dirty or corrosion on terminals, either at battery ot where they attach to starter motor or engine/body

Can you use the hose to direct water to specific areas. And what did you find? Did water go in? Where were you hosing when that happened? My guess is either a windscreen leak or the air dam at the bottom of the windscreen is overflowing due to blocked drain holes. Can you direct the hose at the windscreen to confirm? Also, when did the leak start? Had any work been done before? Eg new windscreen, new heater core etc?

Right

So I had a T belt change recently....at 310,000km. I'm pretty sure it was the original. Looked reasonable still but no idea if the idlers were a bit done. Seemed like a good thing to do at that mileage. I reckon 300K is a good run. Bearing in mind my Landcruiser has a 150K interval.

I would 100% think this is the case. Cools fine under 130....over that the cooling demand is higher, so you see a rise in temp. Get the radiator refurbished or renewed. I had a car where anything over 120 or uphill would cause the temp to rise. Got the radiator rodded and it was all good.

Agree. I'd run it for a bit until your mate gets back from holidays at least. Id just replace the clutch when it starts to slip regularly under normal driving. Next time it slips, try lifting the pedal a bit. Might do nothing but may allow it to release the throwout bearing a bit more

Reeks of quality....

Does the fuel pressure increase when pump is running by direct wiring? If not Maybe pump has failed and does run but doesn't pump up enough pressure. Blocked pickup or failed relief valve in pump Maybe?? Maybe an immobiliser fault stopping the pump running. I had a car where the immobiliser stopped the fuel pump but you could still crank it

Why was head gasket replaced? Maybe it has failed again but not catastrophically Look around the overflow pipe. I think it leads out under the coolant tank

How much was it slipping for this half an hour.? So does it slip for half an hour or do you just not notice it half an hour later when you drive it again? Slipping for half an hour will roast a clutch. Really depends how much it actually slips. I've had a slipping clutch for 10,000K before. Only slipped under hard loads bit was fine if you babied it a bit. Can you describe what happens when it's slipping?? One would think that would make it slip alot. Can you elaborate on what happened and what you observed as a slipping clutch? It sounds a bit like the throwout bearing / slave cylinder isn't releasing properly. That may cause intermittent slipping. Try lifting the pedal with your foot next time it slips. Like a single squeak as you press it or a squeak that cycles due to engine rotation. Need a bit more detail. If its a single squeak it may be just a sticking thrust bearing as mentioned above If a constant squeak due to engine rotation it may be a dry thrust bearing. You may be able to lubricate the sticking bearing (spray something on the shaft it slides along) but if its a buggered bearing probably wait for it to get worse then replace along with the clutch plates

Could just be burned. 2mm isn't much at all and almost within margin of error considering how and when it is checked (eg hot or cold, some oil still not drained back to sump after running engine for a bit) Possibly same as this Maybe they didn't bleed it properly. May require a coolant flush as the VAG garage suggested. Some residual oil in coolant system is expected. 2mm of oil loss not gonna show a warning. I'd say this was the cause and you are seeing some effects of residual oil and an unpleasant system. I'd keep topping it up and watch it. If still using coolant after 500 miles, maybe another leak. I'd certainly be letting the garage know as their inability to bleed the system properly may cause damage to the cylinder head. This is where they admitted it may not be properly bled. I think it will be fine but a significant air lock can cause overheating in parts of the head which will lead to cracking. Run the heater a bit to promote coolant flow. That might help bleed the system

For 200 Euro, definitely can't see a downside. I'd try it as it's alot cheaper than the 2K otherwise quoted.

How do you know? That doesn't seem like much. How are you measuring it? Is it just being overfilled? Maybe the cap is leaking a bit out the overflow

I doubt you'll get a refund but repair should be fine. Might be a simple fix. Is this the first problem you have had with it? If so, one issue isn't really giving you grief. Id just get the mob that sold it to you to repair under warranty and go on living your life. Maybe after 3 or 4 failures you could say it's giving you grief

Put in clean container and reuse. Oil pretty cheap though so maybe wait 3 more months then do oil change a 6 month interval. It won't hurt doing a change after 6 months

Really depends on what box it is. The DQ200 doesn't require an oil change. The other 7 Speed wet clutch one does. There was a thread here about the dq200 and the final word was that it won't hurt to change the oil but it won't do much to help. The clutch will likely fail well before an oil related failure occurs and just change it then.