aubrey

Understood, personally I always go for the main brands, often sticking to Bosch. Maybe your filters cost more than my 1.2 TSI Yeti, but £30 for filters alone then I would definitely stick to main brands. I would also question Ridex and that alone would make me avoid them. That is with no evidence at all good or bad, I'd just feel safer sticking to the main brands. Especially if it's not much of a saving. Saying that a parts shop only had Apec brake pads and I wanted to swap my rear pads the next day. Another brand I'd never heard of but I've had no problems with them.

Doesn't seem that cheap for the filters. The most expensive part when I service my Yeti is the oil, that's £30 on its own.

I done it on an old 2007 Roomster. It was a 2 step thing, you had to code the key fob so the open door buttons functioned and the other step was matching to the immobiliser so the key could start the engine. I remember I had to immobiliser match all my keys together as it was a clear and relearn action for 1 to 4 keys. You needed pin numbers that VW used to give you when you brought the car. VW stopped supplying those numbers and now the dealers have to use VWs server linked ODIS OBD system to get those from central servers. Even the dealer can't see them, it's all hidden behind software. Saying that auto locksmiths do it, so there's obviously other methods available.

The sensor screws onto a schrader valve, so minimal leakage. You can read the G65 sensor value with a good scan tool, I use VCDS. IIRC it reads about 6 bar normally.

You need a good OBD scanner that can scan all VAG systems. I use VCDS and I've heard good about Carista. Your fault is very unlikely to be engine related which is the basic open standard of OBD 2, you need to scan other control modules and especially the abs module. You need the correct tools for the task, which I doubt something costing £12 is.

Personally I would scan it, an all modules scan, that takes all of 5 minutes and would give you a better insight.

I replaced the 4 on my 1.2 TSI Yeti last year with Bosch Y5KPP332. Not had any issues or anything different.

Normally all you lose is the clock time and trip mileage. There will be a few warning lights up on replacement but a short drive including steering lock to lock and they auto clear.

I'd be more worried about air pockets on refilling Coolant systems are often vacume filled i.e. get a vacuum in the empty system and then let let vacuum suck new coolant in, filling any high up air voids as part of the vacuum 'suck'. You could end up with poor/no circulation if just pouring in liquid left an air pocket.

If you measure the disc diameter, look at pad shape too, that should help pinpoint which brake system choice. My Yeti had 2 choices, but only one was for 280mm discs.

Is it G13 VW are now up to on specs ? I have used generic pink OAT Antifreeze before with no issues. Normally they say G10 or higher on their spec anyway

DAB is normally a USB Extra device for any of the Android Units. Remember you'll have to change your cars antenna to DAB compatible too, from experience those stick on windscreen types are useless. Those Android head units normally have a couple of USB ports in the rear so one of those can connect to the DAB Dongle. All.of the Android head units would do Android Auto from your phone, providing GoogleMaps or Waze etc. I added an Wireless Android Auto dongle to mine, so that's wireless too.

I changed them in my 1.2 TSI Yeti after 4 years. Can't say by their look they really needed it but for £40 I changed all 4. You need a thin wall spanner to get in there. So I don't think changing quicker is necessary.

That's what hill hold is for, the ABS Unit will hold the vehicle while your foot goes from brake to accelerator, preventing roll back

From what my 1.2 DSG Yeti does I'd say if in D then drive is not engaged until the accelerator is pressed a bit. So in D the clutches are disengaged at idle. However R is different in that foot off the brake and the car goes backwards, without any accelerator action required. So don't hypothetically do this test in Reverse.

Why not Shift to N, Turn off the engine etc ?

That is battery type Fleece, more commonly known as AGM. What is EFB+ anyway ? I obviously know of EFB, but not EFB+

I always measure the disc diameter before buying. You can normally see what the possibilities are by what gets offered for sale againat your vehicle. So above it shows 256mm or 276mm, a quick measure would confirm which you have.

Any reason you just can't reach over to the passenger side and pull the lever ? I must be missing something here ? More info - in fact I've looked at some videos, yes maybe it is a bit tight with the door shut

I've heard those resistance based testers are pants. The only good ones actually boil the fluid to give you the boiling point value. Obviously they are not the cheap testers you see sold everywhere. I've no personal experience on them, just saying what I've heard.

Tried changing the voice ? Sure I had this once and a different voice sorted it.

I brought it years ago, back in 2007 I think. The older HEX-USB+CAN one, but it still does me fine. I can't remember now who I brought it from now, but it has served me well over many years. Was a few hundred pounds IIRC.

@Gymbro1976 I just Googled P0030 it said that is the primary sensor, so I'd say S1 as my VCDS would say. So it's the engine side of the catalyst. Sometimes they are accessed from above and not underneath. My Yeti S1 Lambda for example is easy change from above, far easier than the S2 underneath. Don't go changing the wrong one out of the S1 and S2.

https://club.autodoc.co.uk/manuals/how-to-change-lambda-sensor-on-skoda-rapid-spaceback-nh1-replacement-guide-29830 I have 2 lambda sensors on my Yeti, S1 and S2, before and after the catalyst. Bank 1 is exhaust manifold run, so only for V engines really.

Yes maybe, you would of felt the pedal drop a lot otherwise, especially with the engine running. I'm thinking any fluid trapped by closed valves must of remained in the unit, again trapped inside due to the closed valves. So if then all the open ports would of drip refilled on replacement, coupled with the open pathways then normal bleed, then maybe. It is quite a normal procedure to have to scan tool ABS Bleed on ABS Block replacement, but that would be with new/remanufactured and crucially fluid empty ABS Units. Anyway something you can keep in mind if you ever get a garage to brake bleed, instruct them to scan tool ABS Bleed too as that is not done by default and as @Paws4Thot said confirm they understand what your asking and why, as by experience I have had many blank faces too. In an older message you mentioned about coding values. Now your original unit is back you can get an OBD scan done and save your module coding values.