pikpilot

In the Mk1 it was in the door lock mechanism inside the door and probably the same on the Mk2

A small wedge of felt also works.

There are two common causes. 1) there is a wire break in the rubber tube between the body and the door (the "hose" you see when you open the door). 2) there is failure of the door open sensor (microswitch?) or a fault in the door control module in the door. Warning: if only the driver's door is opened and then closed and the door open icon has not displayed, the car will self lock after about a two minutes with you inside. Make sure you have the key with you as you will have to turn the ignition on to make the doors unlock. Ask me how I know!

I don't know for sure about the 1.9 PD engine but on my Mk1 Octavia (1.9 ASV engine) it was a common problem. The cause was because VAG had chosen to allow a cold engine to start at any revs but for a warm/hot engine it was necessary to exceed a certain higher revs before allowing a start. Result was it would start easy first thing on a cold day but not start when warm because a failing battery could not crank the engine at the required higher revs. The PD engine was around at the same time as the ASV so I suggest the similar software was use. The fix was to replace the battery.

You only need to buy the electrical rotary switch that is mounted on the mechanical part of the ignition switch barrel. There are post on here with explanations of how to do it. Do a search using google with Briskoda as one of the search terms.

I had a similar warning which was intermittent for months on one of my number plate bulbs. Changed the bulb and problem has not come back. Looking at the bulb afterwards, it looked like the filament had broken but would still make connection between the broken ends for most of the time.

Looks like your garage has changed the options when setting up the opening/closing of windows etc. members with VCDS will make the changes for beer tokens [see VCDS in other pages of Briskoda for map of people near you] You can also change the options yourself through the ODB2 diagnostic port and Carista software (free one off trial available most of the time). Here is a list of some of the options you can change on your year and model: Locking: Beep & Blink Beep when alarm is armed Yes No Beep when locking with remote Yes No Beep when unlocking with remote Yes No Beep when locking with key Yes No Beep when unlocking with key Yes No Blink turn signals when alarm is armed Yes No Blink turn signals when locking with remote Yes No Blink turn signals when unlocking with remote Yes No Blink turn signals when locking with key Yes No Blink turn signals when unlocking with key Yes No

I saw this post below on another forum but I know there are threads on this forum too so do a search. 2.0TSI Catastrophic engine failure, owners be aware.

It would be helpful if you could post your engine code. You can find it on a sticker near or in the spare wheel well.

I believe that all elegance models have climatronic air conditioning and humidy control. The ECON push button is part of this. You can download a copy of the drivers handbook for your car from the sticky thread at the start of the page for this model. This fully explains how to use the climatronic system.

No, I was refering to the chewed cable in the photo.

If it looks to you as though water has got into the cable then replace it. Major sign to look for is the internal multistrand copper conductor turning black.

The fact that the manual switch works says to me that the convenience control module is working. One common problem for the central locking is broken wires is the cable trunk you see when the door is open. it connect wiring between the body and door. This carries power and signals to the drivers door locking system which also talks to other doors. Check all the wires for breaks in the trunking. Also, with the ignition on, open each door in turn and see if a door open icon is displayed on the dash.

Does the lock/unlock switch near the gear lever still work?

As Warrier 193 said, plus I had this after along period of rain with the car standing outside. With this condition I was also able to affect which dim lights came on by switching on other loads such as the turn signals. It may have been caused by moisture in the comfort control module underneath the dash and on the right of the steering column. I fixed it by leaving all the windows open on a dry warm day. Problem solved. Here is my previous post from 2021 with photos I had exactly this and more at the end of last week. With handbrake on, ignition on and lights on I got the ASR and red coolant over temperature warning on dimly. With handbrake off, ign on and lights on I got the LH turn light and ASR dimly lit. With lights off and handbrake on I got the ASR and over high coolant lights still on. This problem was after a week of strong wind and rain and a long time of no use. I suspected it was water somewhere as the whole car was "steamed up" as soon as I closed the door and was reluctant to clear with a fibre cloth. [My car never normally has condensation as I use the climate control even in winter to keep the humidity low] So, the fix: First I left the bonnet open for the whole of a sunny day in case it was water around the ecu - no change Secondly, on the dryer sunny day of Saturday, I left all the windows open with the car locked. When I checked in the evening everything was back to normal and has stayed that way. Conclusion: I believe the very high humidity, (perhaps I have water leak somewhere) resulted in water droplets forming across terminals in the electronics inside the car. See photos for details. Note the camera aperture is set to make the dim light more visible. Edited 1 March, 2021 by pikpilot

Yes, it is not obvious as the index is not that exhaustive. Fuses and Light Bulbs is a section in General Maintenance around page 212 and onward. A5_Octavia 2_OwnersManual end 2011.pdf

If you don't have a a hand book you can download one for your model year from the sticky posts at the the top of this section. The hand book shows, in the fuses and lights section: front interior lighting C10W Reading lights W5W (as posted by Mike the Thinker) Rear interior lighting C10W

It thinks you are driving with the handbrake on. Check the switch by the handbrake and its wiring.

Don't change things without proving where the fault lies. An imobiliser will give a dashboard warning plus it will allow the car to start and run for about 5 to 10 seconds before turning off the engine. Glow plugs are not needed at this time of year, even in Scotland. They may be faulty but not the cause of your problem. First port of call should be why the starter is not working. Does it have a supply whilst you are trying to crank? Ditto for the solenoid supply on the starter - the small cable. Check the earth cable from the battery to the body near the starter. Starter motors can fail so don't rule it out.

As I am sure you know, we can't judge without more information. But the main thing is condition, condition, condition. And I don't just mean body work and interior but regular servicing, MOT comments and failures (.gov mot page for the registration), fault codes, warranty type offered etc. I think the price is about right for a reasonable condition car at a good dealer with decent warranty.

I took this to be a typo for bearing but the mechanic must have been guessing as I still don't think this is the right solution.

There are a number of reports in your chart of intermittant low voltage. Some previous posting have said this can be caused by a corroded earth cable or by corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board near the battery that distributes power around the car. To check the later, disconnect the battery then remove the printed the circuit board to view the other side. This is the board next the battery that contains additional fuses. Some have also found corrosion on the fuseholders. In view of the rotting leaves in the bonnet area then this is my best guess but corrosion can occur anywhere including earthing points and exposed cable ends.

It comes from the Climatronic unit. Not all models have Climatronic, particularly in other countries.

I recently had a good experience of the AA when an injector failed. AA cover also provided through a bank (a different one); perhaps we get a better service? I would be interested to know what your failure was as we both have the same 1.6 TDi CR engine.

Typical sign of a failed resistor as I posted before. There are previous posts on this forum describing how to fix it. \try searching in your search engine using "briskoda octavia2 plus your search terms"