pikpilot

This happens when the car has condensation inside from not being used for a while. Different combinations of lights will come on with use. To fix this problem on mine I left all the windows open on a dry sunny day. However, if you are going to use the car daily on not short journeys, there is a better way. Assuming your car has Climatronic climate control, then you can let that do the work for you. Switch on the air con and set the temperature controls to hot. The hot air will increase the humidy inside the car and the air con will replace this with dry air from outside. It will eventually settle at a comfortable preset humidty. At first sight it seems daft to have the heater and air con on at the same time but this is how the system works. Air from outside is first cooled to remove excess humidy as condensed water. The air is then heated to the temperature you have set. Note the air con is inhibited below about 5C. I leave my air con on almost all the time because the compressor has variable capacity control which draws hardly any power most of the time - completely different to bang-bang compressors of old. One advantage of doing this is that window condensation on rainy days is removed automatically within minutes.

That is exactly the scenario I described above for a failing battery. When the engine is warm it is a common problen for your engine series due to not acheiving a high crank revs. Why are you changing the tandem pump?

My similar car has always required the clutch pedal to be pushed near to floor to fully disengage but never actually into the carpet. Can you find another one for sale that you can test drive?

When a Skoda garage changed my driver's door module, it took three attempts to get the coding right to include all the features. I suggest you look at the VCDS forum on Briskoda to find someone near you (use the map) who is willing to sort it out for a few beer tokens.

On my Octavia Mk1 with a 1.9 litre tdi engine, this was a common problem. The reason was that, when warm. a certain cranking speed had to be acheived before the next step in the starting process could procede. When cold, any crank speed is allowed. The major cause was an old battery that could not produce enough current to acheive minimum cranking speed. Less commom reasons were corrosion of the ends of the starter motor cable or starter motor problems. Ask someone to use jump leads from their battery next time you have the problem. Or swap out the battery.

Yes. It will not work if the boot hatch is open. The rear wiper is operated by signals through can bus on the estate and likely the same on the hatchback (your small black box?) Probably controlled by the Comfort Control module. On the Estate the wiring runs behind the right hand side boot trim and into the roof area - possibly runs along on the RH side to the top of the A or B pillar at a guess.

The secondary electric water pump, which comes on for 30 seconds after switch off, is not intrusive and can only be heard when there is no major other noise. However, it occurs every time you switch off a warm engine and can be mistaken for a fan. It has nothing to do with regen, coolant level etc. After a journey, with the engine warm and still running immediately open the bonnet and then within a few seconds have someone switch off the engine. You will hear the aux cooling pump running at the front (the side of the engine) for 30 secs. Confirm this is the noise you heard. The radiator fan will not normally come on.

Have you looked at the fan to confirm it is running? On your engine (CAYC) there is a secondary electric water pump which comes on for 30 seconds after switch off. This can sound like a fan. There is no display when regenerating the dpf.

What makes you think it is the engine and not wheel balance? Wheel balance issues don't show themselves in town driving. Does it go away when drive through the shake to a higher speed?

First remove the battery. Check the connection on the vertical fuses at the front for corrosion. Then take out the fuseboard assembly (which holds the smaller fuses and relays) and look underneath it on the printed circuit board for corrosion, particularly on the connections to the small fuses. Check too for water damage. This is has been a problem on some facelift models and could also apply to earlier Mk 11 although locations may vary. Check too the earth connections, and their cables and for black or green strands. Especially check carefully for this on the negative cable to the battery. Your description fits with a corroded connection or, less likely, a relay with burnt contacts.

Try ejecting all the CDs to see if the noise goes, just to eliminate a mechanical problem first.

You need to fill the tank yourself and then see what the mpg looks like. I know of someone who paid for an employees fuel, and who had a car that always had a consistently low mpg. He found out that some of the petrol was being put into cans for another car.

The clutch sees a higher torque in this situation so this is where you will see early signs of a worn clutch. A check you can to do to verify a slipping clutch is, when going up hill at high torque, maintaining the same throttle setting, press lightly on the clutch pedal until th revs start to rise then release the pedal and see how long it takes for the revs to drop. With a good clutch it will be instaneous.

This refers to the daylight driving light bulbs which are adjacent to the fog lights on some models, such as the Elegance trim level. I have had intermttent bulb warnings on the number plate illumination. Replacing both the bulbs fixed it.

I assume you checked the brake/clutch fluid level. The usual cause is a failed clutch position sensor. This is either a switch at the top of the clutch pedal or a sensor in the hydraulics line. The glow plug light should go off when the cause is fixed.

Those wires are corroded. You will need uses a solder flux to aid tinning the wires before joing them.

Thats the situation I was in. When the garage went to change the first injector they also looked at the other three and found one of them was aslo well out of spec. So injectors two and three were changed. Knowing from posts on here that the others were likely to fail, I had injectors one and four changed by an independant VAG specialist at about half the material cost and lower labour rate. It may be a 12 year old car but I see it as keeper. I have no experience of reconditioned injectors but based on (maybe biased) heresay I decided to bite the cost bullet.

The 1.6 L engine is prone to injector failure beyond 75,000 miles/10+ years. Furthermore, once one fails, the others fail soon after. You say a greenline model so it is just my guess that yours is a 1.6 l. You can find the engine code in the boot on a sticker near the place for a spare wheel. For example mine is CAYC and yours will have similar format.

If you use a 30A relay, that is oversize for the current taken on the contacts by the camera. On all electrical circuits the rule is that any wiring must be fused to protect the cable on its full length (fire protection against shorts.) For the camera supply I suggest you use the cabin fusebox on the driver's end of the dashbord for supply and fusing. There are several spare slots at different maximum currents, switched and continuous. A good solution is to use a piggy back fuse holder on one of the existing fuses, using such as this. It has two fuse positions - one for the original fuse and one for fusing the new circuit.

Acording to my diagram it is a red wire with a black stripe. The changeover year was 2013 so it may have changed on late build 2012 cars. You can check by taking out the bulb unit in the boot as though you were changing a bulb and see if that colour wire goes to the connector. Some people have had a problem with black stripes on pictures from the camera due to interference from CAN and other sources. Do a search on this forum for further information if needed.

Thanks for all the info in this thread. My wife's car had a warning of a flat battery in the remote so I initially changed the battery. But the red light on the remote did not come on. I then put a new battery in the spare (it had never been used), but same result - no red led and not opening the car. So I now had two keys that didn't work. After reading this thread I tried resychonising the keys. Seems that the red light in the remote does not come on when pressing a button after a battery change (unlike my Octavia) until the key until it has been resychronised with the car. Also, while doing this, you need to leave the ignition on with the new key for about a minute for the sychronisation to complete. [The ignition has to be turned on anyway to switch off the alarm when you manually unlock thr car]

Have you looked on line for likely causes? I would suspect a blocked DPF or a broken injector nose. If you have a simple wifi or blutooth OBD2 connector for the diagnostic port, there is a good app for reading the DPF ash content.

The above post by me was in the wrong place and shpuld be deleted.

Have you looked on line for likely causes? I would suspect a blocked DPF or a broken injector nose. If you have an OBD2 reader for your diagnostic port, there is a good app for reading the DPF ash content.

I never knew you could unscrew and take off the outer door skin to get to the lock etc. as shown in the last video. !!!!