andrehj

I ordered my S2 in 2011 with the paddles. I like them, but I mostly use them while driving with a trailer or to improve engine braking during descends. So flappy paddles definitely were an option around 2011.

@GaryM1308 Check the switch assembly with the memory switches (1, 2, 3 and set). Due to its position a lot of dirt falls into it. Simply unclip the assembly, disconnect it and measure the power draw without these switches. I've fixed mine by completely disassembling, cleaning and reassembling it. (But I had slightly different symptoms, odd seat movement behavior). Other possible suspect is the seat heating. Its controllers are positioned at the very lowest position of the car, in a recess in the bottom below the seats. If you ever had a bit of water in the interior, than these controllers are the first to catch that water and fail.

105 or 90 what? Is that 105 or 90 bar? Both are more than enough to keep the car running. My car had a failing HP fuel pump once (around 2015?). Without that HP fuel pump I could still drive the car to the garage, with only the fuel pressure of the pump in the tank, around 6 bar.... If you still have 90 bar, the fuel pressure is not your problem.

First link in Google... https://lmgtfy.com/?q=vcds+software

With diagnostic software like VCDS you can simply monitor the fuel pressure of the HP fuel pump. For my TSI I think it is around 40 bar during idle and low load, and can go up to 150 bar for full power. Don't know the values for a VR6.

I put my money on a failing wheel bearing. MOT is just a safety inspection, so the drivetrain is not part of it.

@dave123314 I would always purchase an A-brand part. In this case the alternative for the original Skoda part (https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0511115bh-suspension-spring-rear-axle-skoda-24778.html) are the springs from Sachs, which is an OE supplier: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k0511115bh-suspension-spring-rear-axle-sachs-53323.html At Autodoc it is even cheaper: https://www.autodoc.nl/sachs/7064116

If the car is too low, the springs are not stiff or long enough. That is a very clear explanation for the car hitting the end stops on speed bumps. You have a very common engine (2.0 TDI with DSG), so finding out the correct color code for your springs should be easy. Also, I do not understand your problem with skoda-parts.com. Simply make an account and add your car. If you have two Skoda's, make two accounts (with two different e-mail addresses). And regarding spring length: I already explained to you before that just measuring the free spring length is useless. You also have to compare the stiffness, which is determined by the wire diameter and the number of turns. But it all starts with the original specifications.

@ddan1275 The fact that only the spring on one side was replaced already tells the story: The "garage" doesn't understand his job. Suspension parts like springs (and shock absorbers etc) should always be replaced on both sides! The fact that the car is now lower than it should be is another indicator for the poor competence of your "garage". Most likely the new springs are not stiff enough for your Superb. This also leads you to the solution: Go to a proper garage and have them fix your car with quality parts with the correct specifications. You don't have to go OEM, after-market parts from A-grade suppliers (Sachs, ZF etc) are also OK. About you wanting to measure free spring length: That length says absolutely nothing about the spring stiffness, so there is no use in measuring it. In this case your Skoda dealer is right: Just use a set of springs from a well-known brand with the correct color code, and your ride height will be restored. See the attached Word document (sorry, it's in Dutch, but the picture should be clear). The dimension "a" should be 394 ± 10 mm for standard suspension 379 ± 10 mm for sport suspension 414 ± 10 mm for rough road suspension Voorgeschreven waarden achteras.doc

New: Dealer or Skoda-parts.com (for around € 1100) Used: Scrap yard

With an OBD diagnose you have an answer in a few minutes. I recently had something similar, which turned out to be a faulty ABS wheelspeedsensor. But it can be anything, and even if it is an ABS sensor, you still don't know which one without a diagnose.

VCDS. See https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

@nigelw I think it would be wiser to fix the missing cap (and moisture) issue first....

That's correct, the picture above shows a subframe for 4WD. The question is whether this will also fit the 2WD version...

@raul_allin As I thought, you're not right about the 4WD having the same subframe as the FWD version though. The online ETKA (https://ifinterface.com/prog/car/cp2/inprog.php) reveals it: FWD: 4WD:

Ouch, that is quite severe. I painted mine two years ago since it started to develop rust, and I hate that. Currently it looks like this (picture taken from the right side):

First a question: Why do you want to replace the subframe? If you know the the exact type number, you can look for that. My 2WD 2012 S2 has the 5N0505235Q, but that number was (according to my ETKA) only used until 27-05-2012, so yours will have a different number. And the 4WD models also have a different part.

Thanks for the feedback, but this question might have received an answer if you'd specified which engine your car has... That info is also very relevant if somebody ever wants to use your feedback info.

I've read a case (don't know where I read it though) of a wiring loom below the battery which got damaged. It's on my list to check if I ever have my battery removed. In your case that would be the first place I would look. Just remove the battery and the battery tray and the loom should be accessible.

That's interesting! So the newer generation alarm units do not have these Varta 5/V200H batteries anymore, but simple standard AA-size batteries! That's good news. If my alarm ever breaks down (already from 2011, so fingers crossed), that might be a good reason to buy a new unit instead of trying to fix the old one. Too bad a new unit costs € 283...

Please use the search function. There are already many threads about this subject: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/355341-just-switched-from-18s-to-16s/ And more....

@davehutch Have you ever mounted the battery from the eBay-ad above? They are still for sale, and still with the picture of @FatblokeVRS used in the TS of this topic. See https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403297455731. If yes, what were experiences? Very strange and suspicious that they advertise something without a picture of the item they are selling....

Yes. If your car is from 2023, it's an S3, and you're in the wrong section.

A rattling air box is definitely not common, this is the first time I read about in the last 15 years of experience with an S2. You'll have to find out exactly what is rattling and solve that. If you want usable tips, it might be an idea to tell a bit more about your Superb, especially the motor type and model year may be useful...

@AliG81 and @PetrolDave This is the Superb 4 topic. And the Superb 4 (S4) only entered the market in the autumn of 2024. So you won't find any water ingress issues with 2023 models due to the very simple reason that no 2023 models of the Superb 4 exist...