andrehj

(I made a similar picture with my phone...) The screw is indeed probably a nightmare to get back in, probably that's why the workshop manual says to access these bulbs via the wheel arch. My front indicator bulbs (still the originals from 2011) still look OK, so I'm going to leave them where they are...

@Dr_Mike_Oxgreen Just removed the tail lights (of my MY 2012 S2C), to check, and indeed you are right. My car also has Philips RY10W installed (they were replaced by my garage in 2019, since from the originals the orange paint was flaking off). Also tried a PY21W which I had laying around, and it definitely does not fit. Important note to others: The owners manual is wrong here. It specifies the wrong (PY21W) type. P.S. Anyone ever tried to remove the front indicator lights and wondered why their exchange is not explained in the owners manual? Just found the answer to that question: Some idiot engineer designed a fitting which is secured by a (torx) screw, and the workshop manual says that you have to remove the front wheel and the inner wheel arch to reach it... Why they didn't design it with a common bayonet fitting will probably always remain a mystery....

Please use the search function. This topic has recently been discussed (search for buzzer).

Don't know about the errors, but these broken mounts were quite common for these headlights. Therefore there is repair kit available, so for those mounts you don't have to buy new headlights. This one or the PFL https://www.vag247.com/en_US/p/Headlamp-repair-set-kit-Skoda-Superb-II-2008-2013/3581 or this one for the FL model: https://www.vag247.com/en_US/p/Headlight-brackets-repair-set-kit-Skoda-Superb-II-FL-2013-2015/3997 Regarding the error: Cornering lights is a function of the fog lights. Before buying a new head light (on a gamble), I'd check the actual error message (in VCDS or a similar OBD tool).

@CabooseRecluse I found the thread (from 2017) in which I described my error and its fix. (Use Chrome to translate if you don't understand Dutch.) My error was apparently P0087. Back then the fuel pump was revised quite a few times to solve its problems. Was the £250 + VAT for the injectors for four of them (sounds like a reasonable price), of per piece? (which is a quite steep...)

@CabooseRecluse Do you know that original injectors only cost 54 euro? https://www.motointegrator.nl/producten/1273239-brandstofinjector-bosch-0-261-500-160 How much did the testing and the new one cost? Regarding the high pressure fuel pump: The ones from 2010 and 2011 (and maybe later) were prone to fail. Mine (from 2011) failed in 2017 after only 5.5 years and 75.000 km. I now have an upgraded version. Don't know anymore what fault code I had. I do know that I had severe loss of power, since the pump was doing totally nothing anymore. The fuel pressure at the injectors was just the fuel pressure from the pump in the tank (around 4 bar?). I found it a miracle that the car actually ran on such low fuel pressure, and that I could drive it to the garage. If yours was still the original pump, it's logical that the garage suspects it.

@PWDSCOTT There are very nice after-market 7jx17 wheels with ET 45 - 49 available. Combined with 215/50R17, that would fit, look nice and reduce the speedometer offset to about zero. Only disadvantage: The tires are more expensive than the more common 205/55r16 or 225/45R17. For example the Mak Wolf in 7Jx17 ET48:

We just had a long thread about this topic: (Hint: Use the search function of this forum, it is there for a reason...)

Good job! But what kind of engine does your car have? Is it a 2.0 TDI?

The camera is located behind the windscreen. So most likely you don't have to replace the camera, but the windscreen. Or maybe it can be repaired with spot repair?

I would suspect the throttle valve (and throttle body). A good clean of those might solve the issue. But it can also be an air leak in any of the hoses of the inlet circuit. A smoke test will reveal the location of the leak.

Read fault codes?

All the lights are described in the manual. Is it listed in there?

Then you're in the wrong forum section. This is the Superb II (2008 - 2015) section.

First: What is the question? Second: There are two link bars between the suspension and the sensor, one on the front left and one on the rear left.

The quality of the answers will massively improve if you specify which engine your car has. The coolant temperature is not 90 °C, it's software that keeps the needle at 90 when in reality the coolant is anywhere between 70 and 110... With OBD software you can view the real coolant temperature.

When mounting a clock spring, it is extremely important to have to steering wheel position match the orientation of the clock spring. The clock spring can only handle the ~3 rotations of the steering wheel. If the clock spring was mounted one complete rotation offset from the position of the steering wheel, it will break very quickly.

@mdauncey This movie shows the buzzer location and how to repair it: Location in the estate should be the same.

@mdauncey Just checked Elsawin. H22 is the FRONT buzzer, and is located behind the dashboard. The rear buzzer is called H15, and according to Elsawin it is located on the rear ceiling, near the shark antenna. So I was wrong, it's not near the control module in the boot. Edit: confirmed here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497949-access-rear-park-sensor-module/#findComment-5588456

Some brilliant designer (or accountant) decided not to fit these new 1.5 TSI evo 2 engines with a dipstick.... There is only the (apparently not so reliable) sensor. Luckily it seams that the dip stick of the this engine is the same as the one of the previous 1.5 TSI evo, and that the dipstick hole is still there, just covered with a blind plug. So I would recommend to retrofit a good old dip stick. Somebody even made a Youtube movie about this.

Behind the dash you will only find the buzzer for the front sensors, which you do not have. The buzzer for the rear sensors is located in the right rear of the vehicle, most likely somewhere near the control module for those sensors, which is behind the right upholstery of the luggage compartment.

Have you ever had water in your car? I thought that the control module (relais) for the heated seats is below the seats, at the lowest point of the car interior. Any water will accumulate exactly at that control module. Brilliant design.... I would check that module. Maybe you can exchange left and right (don't know if they are the same, but seams logical), and check if the problem moves to the other seat.

You have a power consumer which keeps drawing current from the battery, so you need to diagnose it (by measuring the battery current) and pull fuses until you find the circuit that causes the problem. This should be no rocket science for a decent auto electrician.

Are you sure that module is broken? How was the diagnosis done? Usually a non-responsive door module is caused by broken wires in the wiring loom between the A-pillar and the front drivers' door.

I've seen many reports of panoramic sunroofs which were internally leaking. A glue connection seems to come loose. The famous Youtube car techs "Die Autodoktoren" have reported about that problem a lot. This is their channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Autodoktoren/search?query=panoramadach And I believe it was this episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JkoSx68HWw Also this episode shows exactly what I mean (at 10:20): https://youtu.be/1zeYVvnoXLc?si=THuWPRAVuaXY55jL&t=620