andrehj

All the lights are described in the manual. Is it listed in there?

Then you're in the wrong forum section. This is the Superb II (2008 - 2015) section.

First: What is the question? Second: There are two link bars between the suspension and the sensor, one on the front left and one on the rear left.

The quality of the answers will massively improve if you specify which engine your car has. The coolant temperature is not 90 °C, it's software that keeps the needle at 90 when in reality the coolant is anywhere between 70 and 110... With OBD software you can view the real coolant temperature.

When mounting a clock spring, it is extremely important to have to steering wheel position match the orientation of the clock spring. The clock spring can only handle the ~3 rotations of the steering wheel. If the clock spring was mounted one complete rotation offset from the position of the steering wheel, it will break very quickly.

@mdauncey This movie shows the buzzer location and how to repair it: Location in the estate should be the same.

@mdauncey Just checked Elsawin. H22 is the FRONT buzzer, and is located behind the dashboard. The rear buzzer is called H15, and according to Elsawin it is located on the rear ceiling, near the shark antenna. So I was wrong, it's not near the control module in the boot. Edit: confirmed here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/497949-access-rear-park-sensor-module/#findComment-5588456

Some brilliant designer (or accountant) decided not to fit these new 1.5 TSI evo 2 engines with a dipstick.... There is only the (apparently not so reliable) sensor. Luckily it seams that the dip stick of the this engine is the same as the one of the previous 1.5 TSI evo, and that the dipstick hole is still there, just covered with a blind plug. So I would recommend to retrofit a good old dip stick. Somebody even made a Youtube movie about this.

Behind the dash you will only find the buzzer for the front sensors, which you do not have. The buzzer for the rear sensors is located in the right rear of the vehicle, most likely somewhere near the control module for those sensors, which is behind the right upholstery of the luggage compartment.

Have you ever had water in your car? I thought that the control module (relais) for the heated seats is below the seats, at the lowest point of the car interior. Any water will accumulate exactly at that control module. Brilliant design.... I would check that module. Maybe you can exchange left and right (don't know if they are the same, but seams logical), and check if the problem moves to the other seat.

You have a power consumer which keeps drawing current from the battery, so you need to diagnose it (by measuring the battery current) and pull fuses until you find the circuit that causes the problem. This should be no rocket science for a decent auto electrician.

Are you sure that module is broken? How was the diagnosis done? Usually a non-responsive door module is caused by broken wires in the wiring loom between the A-pillar and the front drivers' door.

I've seen many reports of panoramic sunroofs which were internally leaking. A glue connection seems to come loose. The famous Youtube car techs "Die Autodoktoren" have reported about that problem a lot. This is their channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Autodoktoren/search?query=panoramadach And I believe it was this episode: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JkoSx68HWw Also this episode shows exactly what I mean (at 10:20): https://youtu.be/1zeYVvnoXLc?si=THuWPRAVuaXY55jL&t=620

If you run out of electric power while driving, the problem is the alternator. Get your battery charged asap to save it. Batteries don't like being discharged for a long time. This charger is my favourite: https://www.ctek.com/uk/battery-chargers-12v-24v/mxs-5-0-uk No idea if a full battery will last the 22 min to the garage... Do you want to risk stranding on a motorway? Exchanging an alternator is no rocket science. Instead of picking up your car on a tow-truck, maybe your garage can fix your car where it is now?

Before randomly changing parts: Have you checked power and ground?

@JuSko Open the bonnet and you know. Intake manifold injecors can usually easily be seen.

@JamesBrown What's the mileage of your Superb? And did you fit the new Koni's yourself or did you have your garage do it? I'm thinking about fitting these Special Active shocks as well, but the ones needed for the front (8745-1038) are sold out everywhere. 😥

B.t.w.: I changed the oil in my DQ200 gearbox last December. See this thread in the Dutch Skodaforum.nl: https://www.skodaforum.nl/forum/i/oliewissel-dsg-versnellingsbak-dq200.50395/

Nice job, but I don't understand this sentence. Normally you remove the wheel, and remove the wheel liner (around 10 Tx25 screws). This is also a good opportunity to clean out all the dirt that collects behind the front wheel liners (between wheel and front door). Wasn't removing the wheel liner possible?

Removed ice from these windows with a scraper?

The correct oil type for your gearbox (not the Mechatronic!!) is G055512A2 (you need 1.7 liter). That is however not going to fix any clutch issues, since the clutch is dry, and completely separated from the gearbox and its oil.

If the clutch switch is the issue, can't you simply unplug (or bridge, depending on whether it's NO or NC) that switch?

Dealer? Scrap yard?

@S1992 That front brake system is from ATE. You can buy the same component with an ATE-logo for about half the price that you pay your VAG-garage. Also don't forget to do both sides, left and right!

B.t.w. you shouldn't just use a bypass, but also have to change the pins on the radio side, to connect the old aux wire from the bluetooth module to the microphone-in connection. (Or you need a quadlock adapter who does this). Here is a diagram (and a picture) I collected: