andrehj

@Chicane-UK If the rods are the same length, you don't need any calibration.

@Chicane-UK: The problem is most likely the level sensor mounted to the lower control arm of your rear-left wheel. The hinge points of these sensors tend to rust and seize. New sensors are not very expensive, but you need to calibrate the head light level afterwards.

You're still forgetting about the reprogramming of (I think the BCM) that is also required. And you have to figure out first whether that it's just reprogramming that's needed, or that you need a different BCM...

@Geo59You're post is very unclear (what is an "ads module"🤔 for example), but if you're trying to replace the Halogen headlights by Xenon units, you need (much) more than just the headlights. You need (at least) the wheel level sensors on front and rear axis, and the ballasts for the head lights, and of course all the wiring for these. Also you need to program the appropriate modules, so the car electronics know that Xenon head units are installed.

Again my question: What is the oil temperature? (Answer should be in °C)

Since we do not have a crystal ball: giving some details about your car (at least engine and gearbox type and code) may help...

Please use the search function, (or scroll a little back). This topic has been discussed a lot lately.

What is the oil temperature? That is usually a very reliable measurement of the actual engine temperature. If you connect a simple OBD tool, what does that say about the coolant temperature? Do you see any suden rises?

There is (should be) an owners manual in your car, which describes (among many other things) also this procedure. Advice: Read that manual and learn many functions of your car you did not know yet.

Yes. Use OBD software like VCDS.

"seems"? How have you determined that? What is the voltage during starting and during driving?

That's very strange and I think you must have done something wrong with the diagnosis. Errors which pop up like yours are always logged and can be read with software like VCDS. Advice: Go to a capable garage and have them scan your car with the proper software. For the cause: Apart from undervoltage, a problem with the ABS-sensors (sensor, wiring or ring) could also cause this.

Just this week a user posted a complete guide in the Dutch Skodaforum: https://www.skodaforum.nl/forum/i/repareren-lekkende-slang-ruitensproeiervloeistof-achterklep.49019/

Thanks for the link. Now also the PHEV models are included. But it's an online manual only. Does anybody have a link to download the manual as PDF?

Completely agree with @chimaera above. Changing the flywheel to a single mass version is a very bad idea. First: The original double-mass one lasted 175.000 miles. If the new one has the same lifetime, that should be more than enough for the lifetime of the car. Second: A dual mass flywheel dampens vibrations, especially at low RPM. The vibrations cause premature wear, not only on the crankschaft, but also in the gearbox, The gears and bearings are now subject to all vibrations caused by the engine, something theys are not designed for! Third: These vibrations also lower the comfort level of the car. Why do you think they invented dual mass flywheels in a business where every penny counts?

You cannot draw that conclusion based on a scan! The scan only shows which sensor gives a bad signal, but that does not tell you the cause of the problem! The cause can be: Broken wiring Broken (or oxidized) magnetic ring on the wheel bearing. Broken sensor Broken ABS/ESP module. etc First perform a proper diagnosis before randomly replacing parts!

You need a capable garage. If the garage cannot even diagnose the difference between a failing battery and a failing alternator, they are useless and should stop calling themselves a garage. Simply connect a multimeter to a 12V line and measure the voltage. With a running engine that should be around 14V. If it is around 12V, than your battery won't charge, and their is something wrong with the alternator or the voltage regulator.

This is a very common issue. Please refer to this old topic:

Usually it's the wiring harness in the front drivers door that's the problem. Inspect it and fix it when found broken.

@CabooseRecluse: Any idea about the age and brand of the failing spark plug? I've replaced mine twice, always at 60.000 km intervals, and they still were in very good condition. Doing such a simple job yourself is not expensive and very simple. Top brand spark plugs (Bosch, NGK) cost less than €13: https://www.autodoc.nl/auto-onderdelen/bougie-10251/skoda/superb/superb-stationwagen-3t5/32784-1-8-tsi?supplier[0]=30&supplier[1]=15 Did somebody save on maintenance?

That's because in the UK the driver's seat is on the wrong side of the car 😅. The claim is valid for Skoda's which drive on the right side of the road. You will find it under the passenger's (or left) seat.

All the info you need is in this topic: (hint: this forum has a search function, using it would have saved you writing this post...)

@aero-hot That changes things. This topic is about the tensioner, so I assumed your price of £1400 was for just the tensioner. If you also exchanged the complete distribution, the price seams a lot more reasonable.

That's a ridiculous amount of money for just the exchange of the belt tensioner! I've had my dealer replace the tensioner of my 1.8 TSI somewhere around 2014 for €350, which is around £300...

@Darealspoon I had a similar (same?) issue with our MY2012 S2. I posted the problem (and the solution) on the Dutch Skodaforum. You can probably read it with Google Translate: https://www.skodaforum.nl/forum/i/schakelaar-binnenverlichting-doorgebrand-→-nieuwste-artikelnummer.46070/