andrehj

Missing parts: The small tool to remove the plastic caps from the wheel bolts The compressor The tire repair kit (which you don't want since it ruins the tire). Only if you have a spare wheel, than there is a plastic insert in that wheel containing the jack and a wheel nut wrench. I would order a spare wheel and the spare wheel kit if I were you.

Bad Road springs are most likely springs for cars equipped with rough road package. They have a little higher riding height, I think it was 20 mm? If you mount these springs on the rear you also have to mount them on the front side (and maybe also mount matching shock absorbers?)

Me too. But the compression of my 1.8 TSI was also still normal when it was burning oil. I don't think that a compression test is the right way to test the condition of the oil-scrape rings (the lower of the three piston rings).

Oil consumption with an EA888 is 99% of the times a problem with the piston rings. This is usually fixed by overhauling the engine (new pistons + piston rings). How can you be so sure that your engine does not suffer from issues with the piston rings? Has your engine already been overhauled in the past? In that case they forgot something, because normally they also replace the valve stem seals during the overhaul...

Swapping out sensors without knowing what you're doing is never a good idea. First you have to determine the actual fuel pressures, both the low pressure side (between tank and high-pressure fuel pump) and the high pressure side (in the common rail). Both can probably be read by VCDS. If you know which sensor has the faulty reading, you replace it with a different meter. If it still reads too low, you know what the problem is. But remember, when a fuel pump does not produce enough pressure, the fault does not have to be in the pump itself. It can also be a problem in the wiring or the control of the pump.

@VanhireBoys Apart from the adventure story: What wheel and tire size are you running in your Superb? They look larger than stock? Is it 225/50R17 on 7.5J rims? Or 215/50R17 on 7J? Or am I seeing it wrong and is this just stock?

Read this topic?

That's not correct. The 7-speed gearbox coupled with the 1.5 eTec is a DQ200 with dry clutches. The 6-speed gearbox of the PHEV is the DQ400e evo with oil lubricated (wet) clutches.

@persimmontom and @KirkJames : What about the broken bulb message? Many LED's cause a broken bulb error on the dashboard. I recently had that issue when upgrading my high beam H7 bulbs to LED. Do your bulbs generate an error message as well? Or are they just a straight swap without any issues? 2nd question: Many cheap LED's cause DAB signal loss (due to a cheap DC-DC conversion circuit). What are your experiences with these LED's and DAB reception?

That part is from an S3 and will not fit on the S2's in the section of Briskoda.

Your picture doesn't work. Maybe try the universal .jpg instead of the Apple-only .heic format?

It is impossible to answer that question without knowing which brand and type of the aftermarket stereo you've got. Have you already asked this question to the shop where you bought it? And what did the manufacturer say?

@xserces You're posting in the wrong topic. This is a topic about the original Columbus as used in the Superb 2. You have an S3, with a completely different Columbus.

There is already a topic about the location of the alarm horn, and the (difficult) replacement of its battery: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/458298-alarm-siren-battery-replacement/

Answers will be more useful if you specify petrol or diesel...

It attaches to the rails in the boot floor (not standard in every version of the S2 I think). I have it as well, but have only used it a few times in the last 14 years that I owned the car...

(I made a similar picture with my phone...) The screw is indeed probably a nightmare to get back in, probably that's why the workshop manual says to access these bulbs via the wheel arch. My front indicator bulbs (still the originals from 2011) still look OK, so I'm going to leave them where they are...

@Dr_Mike_Oxgreen Just removed the tail lights (of my MY 2012 S2C), to check, and indeed you are right. My car also has Philips RY10W installed (they were replaced by my garage in 2019, since from the originals the orange paint was flaking off). Also tried a PY21W which I had laying around, and it definitely does not fit. Important note to others: The owners manual is wrong here. It specifies the wrong (PY21W) type. P.S. Anyone ever tried to remove the front indicator lights and wondered why their exchange is not explained in the owners manual? Just found the answer to that question: Some idiot engineer designed a fitting which is secured by a (torx) screw, and the workshop manual says that you have to remove the front wheel and the inner wheel arch to reach it... Why they didn't design it with a common bayonet fitting will probably always remain a mystery....

Please use the search function. This topic has recently been discussed (search for buzzer).

Don't know about the errors, but these broken mounts were quite common for these headlights. Therefore there is repair kit available, so for those mounts you don't have to buy new headlights. This one or the PFL https://www.vag247.com/en_US/p/Headlamp-repair-set-kit-Skoda-Superb-II-2008-2013/3581 or this one for the FL model: https://www.vag247.com/en_US/p/Headlight-brackets-repair-set-kit-Skoda-Superb-II-FL-2013-2015/3997 Regarding the error: Cornering lights is a function of the fog lights. Before buying a new head light (on a gamble), I'd check the actual error message (in VCDS or a similar OBD tool).

@CabooseRecluse I found the thread (from 2017) in which I described my error and its fix. (Use Chrome to translate if you don't understand Dutch.) My error was apparently P0087. Back then the fuel pump was revised quite a few times to solve its problems. Was the £250 + VAT for the injectors for four of them (sounds like a reasonable price), of per piece? (which is a quite steep...)

@CabooseRecluse Do you know that original injectors only cost 54 euro? https://www.motointegrator.nl/producten/1273239-brandstofinjector-bosch-0-261-500-160 How much did the testing and the new one cost? Regarding the high pressure fuel pump: The ones from 2010 and 2011 (and maybe later) were prone to fail. Mine (from 2011) failed in 2017 after only 5.5 years and 75.000 km. I now have an upgraded version. Don't know anymore what fault code I had. I do know that I had severe loss of power, since the pump was doing totally nothing anymore. The fuel pressure at the injectors was just the fuel pressure from the pump in the tank (around 4 bar?). I found it a miracle that the car actually ran on such low fuel pressure, and that I could drive it to the garage. If yours was still the original pump, it's logical that the garage suspects it.

@PWDSCOTT There are very nice after-market 7jx17 wheels with ET 45 - 49 available. Combined with 215/50R17, that would fit, look nice and reduce the speedometer offset to about zero. Only disadvantage: The tires are more expensive than the more common 205/55r16 or 225/45R17. For example the Mak Wolf in 7Jx17 ET48:

We just had a long thread about this topic: (Hint: Use the search function of this forum, it is there for a reason...)

Good job! But what kind of engine does your car have? Is it a 2.0 TDI?