PetrolDave

If the problem is estimated range then that's normal - the estimated range is based on about the last 20 miles of driving so if you mostly drive i towne then go on an open road the range will go up and vice versa. Most extreme example I've seen is driving 100 motorway miles on the weekend after a week urban commuting and seeing the estimated range larger after doing 100 miles than it was!

VIN number isn't a code scan...

That's not giving an example of 30mph being a problem, that's drivers exceeding 30mph being a problem.

Not that I've been able to find.

Controller 09 - Central Electronics 16 - Security Access - enter 31347 10 - Adaptations Change ENG116959-ENG116317-Leuchte23SL HLC10-Lichtfunktion D 23 to Tagfarlicht (Daytime running lamps) Change ENG116960-ENG116336-Leuchte24SL HRA65-Lichtfunktion D 24 to Tagfarlicht (Daytime running lamps)

... and motorway and trunk road Service Areas could do with better signposting to the EV charging area(s).

I'm taking a short winter break on Madeira next month and have been looking at car rental costs - and will end up renting a petrol car because the costs of renting an EV are nearly twice as much. Yes I know there's fuel costs as well, but on a small island like Madeira in only a week you can't do many miles so fuel costs won't make up the difference. The headline cost of renting an EV needs to be much closer to the cost of renting a petrol/diesel car for private individuals to stop scrolling and click on the EV.

There are 3 positions of the interior light switch; on, off and on with open door - have you tried all 3 positions?

The battery management system only charges the battery to around 80%, to allow headroom for the micro-regenerative braking system to put charge into the battery when coasting or braking.

Haldex connects only to the rear wheels, so it's extremely unlikely to be anything to do with the Haldex IMHO. Sounds most like a front wheel bearing to me?

Is the wiring between J519 and the HRW OK?

Palindromic number

It's an H15 bulb you need, there are several options for brighter ones from e.g Osram, Philips, etc.

If the old battery was really knackered then coding will make an immediate difference, but if the SoC wasn't too poor then the system will over time learn the characteristics of the new battery.

No, the heating element is not polarity sensitive.

You sure about that? I've owned two Octavia Mk3's both with ACC - one with the lowline 20 camera and one with the 5F highline camera.

Recent posts on the Octavia 4 forum suggest that not all Skoda dealers have the equipment to properly adjust matrix lights, maybe this applies not only to Skoda/VAG dealers but more widely?

For me the worst offenders are vehicles with headlights almost at head height for car drivers, so I'm referring to 4x4s, SUVs, vans, etc. As they get closer to you when oncoming it becomes really difficult to see past them, especially if they are not properly setup.

I guess that depends on whether it's a physically bigger battery, or a battery with a higher energy density which could be the same physical size (or even smaller?).

As others have said insurance costs are based on ALL vehicles not just yours, so if the repair costs of other vehicles go up that will increase YOUR premium - that's how insurance has always worked - we all pay into one pot.

I would disagree with your mech. If the battery is exactly the same specs (type, Ah, etc.), then you should at least just change the serial number so that the BMS can know a new battery is fitted straight away - yes it will learn over a longish period but surely you want to be able to use the full capability of a new battery you've just paid $$$ for straight away? If the battery has different specs then you IMHO must tell the BMS the new specs ASAP.

Nope, they are permanent live.

If the wiring is all OK then this suggests the microswitch in the door lock isn't adjusted or working correctly.

Because many people don't seem to realise that there are actually a large number (20+) of ECUs in the car, all with their own firmware.

Press the button on the actual tailgate - it's above the number plate.