PetrolDave

I fitted the engine cover off a Golf 1.4 to my EA211 1.4TSI Octavia (the 1.4 doesn't come with a cover on the Octavia), and fitted an Octavia bonnet badge which was still firmly in place 5 years later when my ex got the car.

From the small screen and lack of NAV button I'd guess at a MIB1 Swing. *EDIT* wrong on both counts - a MIB2 Bolero 😭

Before I fitted the underbonnet sound pad I could heard the turbo on my 15 plate 1.4TSI when in Sport engine mode.

Probably better to ask in the Octavia 4 forum not the Octavia 3 forum?

See post from varooom , you need to post the Software Train information to identify the correct firmware upgrade required.

There are 3 versions of the BCM (low, mid and high) which can be identified by the part number. You'll need a diagnostic tool (e.g. VCDS or OBD11) to change the coding to add the heated seats and that can identify which BCM version you have.

VCDS saves 2 very useful files in the C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\Debug folder called CodingLog.csv and AdpLog.csv which record ALL the coding and adaptation changes you have made. Open these in either Notepad or Excel and you can see all the changes you have made, and reverse the ones you are concerned about. BTW there is a newer version of VCDS available which is free to all owners of legal VCDS cables, the current version is 22.9

Anyone got recent experience of Turners for Skoda servicing? I'd rather go to them than battle into Bath, if they get a good recent review. Of course, if anyone knows a good Skoda/VW/Audi independent garage near Trowbridge/Westbury/Warminster that would be a better option for me with a 6 year old Octavia...

IIRC the DSG 'tune' increases the DSG clutch clamping pressures so it can handle the higher torque?

Seems the Octavia 3 is different, another cost saving maybe?

Did you code the battery management system to tell it you have changed the battery? If not it will assume the old battery is fitted.

Correct, I was involved in a case last year where the Registered Keeper was most definitely NOT the Legal Owner at the time, so requesting the V5C for proof of ownership is BS.

There are several orange warning symbols, please post a picture of the orange warning symbol you are seeing.

Is that also true of the FL that @hermanekhas as well as the pre-FL which is what the illustration appears to show?

Are you 100% sure that the H7 bulb is fitted correctly?

I thought the FL only came with LED headlamps? I could be wrong...

Your 2013 Octavia 3 will have a MIB1 infotainment system, I doubt that screen from Halfords will be an equivalent replacement.

What exactly did you buy off eBay, just the screen or the glovebox unit as well? You only mention the screen (BTW the screen is JUST a screen, the intelligence is in the glovebox unit), and since 3 of them don't work that hints you may have a faulty glovebox unit or the cable between the glovebox unit and the screen?

Don't even think of buying a copy of a VCDS cable, buy the real thing from a local distributor or direct from Ross-Tech in the USA - unless you like using unknown hacked software and are happy to get no support...

Genuine Skoda/VW cat or aftermarket - there's been a lot of recent discussion on the Ross-Tech forum about how aftermarket cats efficiency is much lower due the lower metal content.

Slightly suspicious at that low cost - I sold a 12 year old genuine HEX-USB for slightly over £100 on eBay a few years ago and that was cheap at the time! Try downloading and installing the latest VCDS version which is 22.9 from here, if you join the Ross-Tech forum and ask for tech support they'll need you to be using the latest version with all the bug fixes and upgrades.

Did it come with a CD with software? If it did then it's a clone. Did it cost less than £100? If it did then it's almost certainly a clone.

1} Leuchte programming is not on the PQ24 platform. 2) Is your VCDS 12.12 genuine, that's usually a sign of an illegal clone? Try updating to the current VCDS version (upgrades are free for life fro the Ross-Tech website if you have a genuine cable). BTW we have a policy of not supporting owners of illegal clone cables.

Get a USB power adapter for the 12V socket and use that?

My understanding is that the Haldex does not share fluid with the differential, so just because the Haldex fluid is contaminated does not necessarily mean there is any damage to the differential. I would just repair/refurbish/replace the Haldex as a first step as it is very likely to fix the problem.