numskull

Thanks everyone for the info. So is the wheel still physically connected to the rack or is it a motorised potentiometer, to give the impression of faster reaction and reduced lock-to-lock?

Cant help with your question but what’s the difference between the three?

Yeah, but given the failure rate of the OE ones AS, it’s probably worth a punt as they come with a warranty, albeit what that might be worth. I suspect they come out of the same factory as the VW OE ones used in China, because would the reverse-engineering, tooling, materials, manufacturing and distribution costs really make them a profit?

Given a pair of so-called non-OE struts are are available for less than £250, I’d be replacing them. The ones on our 280 have always sounded like a mobile iron foundry when they’re operating, yet the ones on a mates S3 are almost completely silent, so Gawd knows which might fail first!

Suit yourself, but having run the 280 on E10 and E10 with Millers, I can assure you it works. But I agree that their material is both confusing and inaccurate, including stating it is a one-shot product too; the proof reader must’ve been on holiday or they’re just useless! That type of sloppiness drives me mad, so I sent them an email pointing out their errors and they’ve now corrected the text on their website.

You can’t get 99 octane easily in Northern or Southern Ireland, so when I go there I use this, which does do what it says on the bottle and is far more effective than the Redex I’d previously used.

Gawd these dealers (and so many other businesses) are useless…. The “C19 backlog” is all done and dusted but it’s still the standard excuse 14 months on. I bet we still hear it being used for another 5 years.

Have the same issues with FLAC and with MP3’s occasionally too. No idea if they’re buffered or not.

Yes, they do.

Unbelievable. 🙄

Well, that fantastic news. Delighted for you. 👍🏻

Hopefully the OE Ice Scraper is still attached to the fuel filler flap? It’d be a bloody cheek if it wasn’t, as it comes with the car! Whilst they’re not cheap, I’d also go for OE carpet and rubber mats as the quality is excellent. Horton has them in stock here.

Unfortunately not, I needs to be like my sons old Grande Punto on “City” setting which made the steering non-existent. Thanks; didn’t think it would be possible….. Goodho. I VCDS so I’ll give it a go! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Cheers Langers2k, so hopefully it can be done. If so, I wonder if it would be possible to add it as a third option on the steering menu, so normal, sport and light!?

I need some help. I recently injured my right shoulder and as a consequence, steering the car, even on “normal” is proving challenging from a pain perspective. Does anyone know if it’s possible to increase the assistance level via VCDS/OBD11 etc.? I’m presuming there isn’t, but thought it was worth asking!

Yeah, you certainly do! The pace is quite extraordinary. It is and I’m doubtful whether the JB4 is really anymore effective, regardless of the additional connections and CANbus control it has. And I really wouldn’t want the ability to pi$$ around with the air/fuel mixture to extract the last ounce of performance. And for a laugh, I turned it to the ECO setting today and it was like driving my Mums Moskvich! Well…not exactly; the brakes actually work on the 280..

Well, as a further bit of perspective and a note of caution, C19 hasn’t gone away, it is still a killer. 354 people died in the 3rd week of August with C19 listed as the direct cause. So please just make sure if you feel like you have ‘flu, Nick, and you don’t feel like you’re getting better in five days, please get to the hospital.

I’ve had C19 twice, Nick, the first in April 20 when I nearly died and in May this year, when it was like a heavy cold, but as I have long Covid, it knocked me for six in terms of exhaustion, but I’m ok now. Our son also had it for the first time in May, and he felt like the had flu, but recovered very quickly so hopefully you won’t be too bad.

I'm still on the original 6 year old battery and it still seems to be in good condition. I do use our CTEK MXS 5.0 to condition the battery every six months. No idea if it really does something, but the battery I bought in 2009 for our MKI was still running 11 years later.

I did, along with a Racechip GTS Black. That takes it in BS form to 330’ish BHP and 480’ish Nm. I have it set to Sport +2 and the acceleration in D is ridiculous, from SS (not Launch Control) and in the midrange. God alone knows what yours at Stage 3 must be like!

I agree AS; it’s exactly like it should have been stock. The Racechip XLR controller I have certainly makes a huge difference, especially eliminating that ridiculous, annoying and potentially very dangerous throttle lag.

If there’s no water pouring out from various areas, suggesting something is busted, I found this to work perfectly.

That’s true. And as you have heated / ventilated seats, make sure you have a thick rubber pad on the seat base to protect it, because the sharp edges on the steel clamp can easily damage the heating element and leave a permanent mark on the leather too. (It did both these things on our MKII). I’ve had laser tracking undertaken 4x by 4 different businesses and the steering wheel has been off too. Tracking is perfect - the original P7’s have covered 36,267 miles and they still have 2mm to go to the wear marks.

The info unit is colour on the L&K. Also, @Bigeater car is a 2017?

Just get the dealer to agree the tracking refund before you stick them with a bill. I only say that in case they want to asses the cars tracking first. Our 280 still has an off centre wheel to the left and it bugs the bejeesus out of me too, but the tracking is spot on.