numskull

Looks like an easy fix though. 👍

Here is one…

Mine has developed this type of rattle too in the past 12m. It seems to be in the vicinity to the right of the centre speaker. It’s worse in the summer than in the winter. It’s annoying but I really cant be a**sed to start heaving out the instrument panel and having a rummage around. Been there, done that, never again. I think there’s a number of threads on it here.

Any updates Michal?

Incidentally, the EA888 is not an ACT engine.

Well, not everyone has a ramp or lift and the filter is on the top of the EA888 series engines. This is one of the reasons why more dealers are using oil extractors as they’re just as efficient as the (maybe more) and they save time so better profit % to revenue. Save 30 mins and that saves a chargeable £65.

Great, well that’s a relief as that’s what I’ve been doing for 50 years on bikes, cars and tractors! On wonders how that could be undertaken incorrectly?

Essentially? Are all manufacturers vehicles now made that way? If so, I wonder how MarkyG2’s 2018 Passat doesn’t have that “feature” I wonder? Perhaps it’s a Skoda implementation.

That’s a worry. How does one do a oil change correctly? I was only starting the 280 once a month or longer whilst I was ill and not driving for 6 months, so I presume that would give the same effect as draining cold oil after removing most of it?

An oil extraction pump is compatible with the EA888 engine however, at least 250-500ml is left inside the engine after it’s drained, so unless you have it a completely flushed with a pressurised mechanical engine flush machine, equipment which very, very few dealers and independents in the U.K. have, cruddy oil residue is left in there at every change. Incidentally, on an engine which is compatible with one, you’ll get more oil out of the sump using a pump. If you want to, you can the leave oil in the engine to carry on draining into the sump for a couple of hours after it’s no longer extracting oil as you’ll then get a few more ml out.

So the WLTP tests dictate that vehicles, which have the ability for the driver to change engine / gearbox programmes and do so, must revert those changes to “standard” or “normal” when the engine is switched-off?

I use individual mode and all settings stay in whatever mode I had set prior to switch-off.

Whatever…. 🙄

No, what this discussion is about people believing in snake oil and that by reversing the phase of a subwoofer makes an “improvement” in sound. It’s nonsense. Do you really believe that VW / Canyon would incorrectly phase a speaker. As for the competition you mention, the importance is that they produce sound which is LOUD, LOUDER, LOUDEST!! Having 10,000 watts and 116db of bass is not HiFi and I recall they need to have their doors / boots open to compete. So true to life. It’s completely pointless and ridiculous.

Never fails to amuse me when people moan about the factory fitted ICE in cars in the last 20-odd years. You’re travelling in a small metal box with huge amount of external noise and terrible acoustics. Then the speakers themselves are tiny, have no enclosures, no porting, have poor crossovers and there’s an expectation it’ll sound like a home HiFi, which is ridiculous. Personally, I think the sound of the Canton system in our 280 is probably the best I’ve had in any vehicle.

Thanks for clarifying JR. I’ve just popped out (SWMBO thinks I’m insane - it’s 3.15 here!) and checked. So they work; they do come on with the switch in side light position AKA dim DLR’s. Given I’ve never used side lights in 45 years of driving and the light switch is always in auto, what I thought “Coding Eyelashes Always On” meant exactly that and they would be on together with the non-dimmed DRL’s, with the switch in the auto position. Guess its a “not what you say but the way that you say it” scenario and should say “Coding Eyelashes On With The Sidelights”.

I have two DA’s, a DAS-6 PRO from Clean My Car and a Makita LTX 18v unit. I never use the DAS now as the Makita gives an hour of heavy use. It was expensive but I have 3 LTX batteries which I use for all my Makita power tools so it was a no brainer. It’s an amazing bit of kit.

Old thread I know, but unfortunately, it dims the DRL strips in the sidelight position.

I have the correct B version but unfortunately the coding, which I checked 3 times, didn’t work. ☹️ Somewhat frustrating…

How does one go about resetting the DSG?

What does this actually do - make the DRL’s eyelashes amber?

Thanks mate. So how do I know if I have Version B?

Many thanks bubib5, I’ll give that a go. 👍🏻

A question. Does anyone have the “tried, tested and implemented” full idiot VCDS coding please, to enable the eyelashes to work in conjunction with the DRL? The car in question is a 2016 L&K. Additionally, would this coding also work for on a ‘21 L&K? All help appreciated Num

Don’t think screenwash, oil and a few plastic bags with bits in constitutes “parts”, but it does constitute stupidity on the dealers part for leaving them in there, therefore I suspect it’s a trade in.