numskull

An oil extraction pump is compatible with the EA888 engine however, at least 250-500ml is left inside the engine after it’s drained, so unless you have it a completely flushed with a pressurised mechanical engine flush machine, equipment which very, very few dealers and independents in the U.K. have, cruddy oil residue is left in there at every change. Incidentally, on an engine which is compatible with one, you’ll get more oil out of the sump using a pump. If you want to, you can the leave oil in the engine to carry on draining into the sump for a couple of hours after it’s no longer extracting oil as you’ll then get a few more ml out.

So the WLTP tests dictate that vehicles, which have the ability for the driver to change engine / gearbox programmes and do so, must revert those changes to “standard” or “normal” when the engine is switched-off?

I use individual mode and all settings stay in whatever mode I had set prior to switch-off.

Whatever…. 🙄

No, what this discussion is about people believing in snake oil and that by reversing the phase of a subwoofer makes an “improvement” in sound. It’s nonsense. Do you really believe that VW / Canyon would incorrectly phase a speaker. As for the competition you mention, the importance is that they produce sound which is LOUD, LOUDER, LOUDEST!! Having 10,000 watts and 116db of bass is not HiFi and I recall they need to have their doors / boots open to compete. So true to life. It’s completely pointless and ridiculous.

Never fails to amuse me when people moan about the factory fitted ICE in cars in the last 20-odd years. You’re travelling in a small metal box with huge amount of external noise and terrible acoustics. Then the speakers themselves are tiny, have no enclosures, no porting, have poor crossovers and there’s an expectation it’ll sound like a home HiFi, which is ridiculous. Personally, I think the sound of the Canton system in our 280 is probably the best I’ve had in any vehicle.

Thanks for clarifying JR. I’ve just popped out (SWMBO thinks I’m insane - it’s 3.15 here!) and checked. So they work; they do come on with the switch in side light position AKA dim DLR’s. Given I’ve never used side lights in 45 years of driving and the light switch is always in auto, what I thought “Coding Eyelashes Always On” meant exactly that and they would be on together with the non-dimmed DRL’s, with the switch in the auto position. Guess its a “not what you say but the way that you say it” scenario and should say “Coding Eyelashes On With The Sidelights”.

I have two DA’s, a DAS-6 PRO from Clean My Car and a Makita LTX 18v unit. I never use the DAS now as the Makita gives an hour of heavy use. It was expensive but I have 3 LTX batteries which I use for all my Makita power tools so it was a no brainer. It’s an amazing bit of kit.

Old thread I know, but unfortunately, it dims the DRL strips in the sidelight position.

I have the correct B version but unfortunately the coding, which I checked 3 times, didn’t work. ☹️ Somewhat frustrating…

How does one go about resetting the DSG?

What does this actually do - make the DRL’s eyelashes amber?

Thanks mate. So how do I know if I have Version B?

Many thanks bubib5, I’ll give that a go. 👍🏻

A question. Does anyone have the “tried, tested and implemented” full idiot VCDS coding please, to enable the eyelashes to work in conjunction with the DRL? The car in question is a 2016 L&K. Additionally, would this coding also work for on a ‘21 L&K? All help appreciated Num

Don’t think screenwash, oil and a few plastic bags with bits in constitutes “parts”, but it does constitute stupidity on the dealers part for leaving them in there, therefore I suspect it’s a trade in.

Knowing him and his fastidiousness, belt ‘n’ braces by the first owner.

No, it was done at 18k at 3 years old, together with the DSG.

Bleedin’ ‘eck! I’ll have to have ours done, together with the DSG at the next service; it’s on 33.5K.

Feel for you mate.

What he said….

Manufacturers dealers will say every two years as brake fluid draws-in moisture from the air, lowering its boiling point and thereby its effectiveness. Now, this makes complete sense doesn’t it, with it being a product in a completely sealed system and with an air pocket it it’s top. 30-odd years ago, no one “changed” their brake fluid, it was just topped-up when brakes were bled when needed or possibly changed when a master cylinder failed. Now obviously this “oversight” led to huge numbers of accidents all over the world, as owners unknowingly drove round with water slopping around in their brake fluid boiled-away, and left them without effective brakes or, indeed, no brakes at all and components and pipework rotted from the inside-out. Nah, never happened; its another way to take your hard-earned, but what do I know. So if you feel you must on “safety grounds”, then every five years would seem to be more reasonable than the £70-100 they kerchang every two years.

Of course, there is still no strategy to deal with the removal and dismantling of Lipo batteries from vehicles, and how to deal with the dangerous materials they contain and for that reason, I really don’t believe that electric vehicles are the long-term solution for passenger or trade vehicles.

Yeah, I kept inadvertently doing exactly that on ours when I moved it from park to drive. We had a 450 mile drive yesterday and at one point I thought the DSG had broken as it refused to change gear….. til I looked down and at the gear lever and realised I’d knocked it across to manual. 🙄

Hmmm… odd. Maybe Coasting is not available on the 7 speed DSG?