JR RS

The R600 intake with the lid on, is tame and not so dramatic (turbo whooshes), but it makes the right induction noises at a sensible level. If u feel like u need drama, remove the lid n ur set. But beware as u will now have an open intake that will suck in hot engine bay air!! I have an APR Hi-torque Stg 1 ECU tunes, paired with an APR DSG tune. It's been brilliant. Almost 2+ yrs now. I had it dyno'ed last year and it made 223kw 530Nm at the wheel power!! Mine is a FWD 220 Superb. Not sure how much the AWD Superb will make, but u can except some drivetrain power loss. Since then I've had the IE intercooler installed. Downside with APR is there is no Stage 2 due to not meeting emissions. Stg 3 would b nice with a bigger turbo but once u go stage 3, there r so many other things to do, and it won't b a carefree enjoyable daily drive anymore. My tuner said I could get an IS38 turbo, and put an APR Stg 1 file that factors in the turbo, getting a bit more power. I've only heard good things about the Revo tunes too, but as u say, their Stages r different power levels. It's similar with other tunes such as TVS, 034 etc etc. The AWD Superb shares the exact same rear swaybar as the mk7/7.5 Golf R. I know of many owners who have that with no issues. The FWD Superb, in my case, shares the same as the mk7/7.5 Golf GTi. A vid of Gandalf on the dyno last year....

congrats on ur new ride. i've had mine for 7+ yrs now, and when i bought the car, the first thing i said was "i'm only going to change the wheels. nothing else, no mods!!" fast forward to now, there isn't a body panel that hasn't been touched, including suspension bits, interior bits, engine bits, retrofits, and tunes!! lol i would definitely recommend the following must haves:- - Stg 1 ECU + TCU tune. makes a HUGE difference! don't get those piggyback tunes! get a proper tune from a reputable tuner like APR, Racingline, 034, TVS, Galano etc ec - Lowering Springs to firm up the ride a bit. Eibach Pro-kit springs r popular. - Rear swaybars to keep it flat. plenty sell them. make sure u get the AWD version. if ur itching for more:- - turbo inlet elbow + pipe - aftermarket air intake - DCC slider mod if u can find someone who can do it.

too get the full benefit, u actually need to unblock the grille intake that feeds the air intake. from factory, this is closed inside the grille. not the bit that is part of the air intake that sits behind the grille, on top. see pics below. all Superbs have this one-sided "blocked nose". both factory and aftermarket air intake systems will benefit with additional airflow by unblocking this. unfortunately it is a bumper off job so u can access the area and dremel/cut out the plastic bit. from factory. u can see the air intake holes/opening above it, that then does a 90 deg turn to the right into the air filter..... top view - before & after...... front view - before & after....

interesting. i have the same year and engine too. so ur saying that with ur Individual Mode Driving Profile, if u have the Drive Mode set to "Eco" or "Sport" mode, when u turn the car off and back on, your cluster shows E1, E2, E3...etc etc, or S1, S2, S3 etc etc (Sport Mode) for the gears? the driving profile will still show that u r in Individual mode.

It will retain all the settings except for Drive Mode.

@Trinity99 - saw ur message. I missed this earlier. Below is from the user manual.

@travs - correct, I put the lower insert only. Doing both upper and lower will definitely increase NVH, which I did not want.

Apparently it's possible, but not straightforward. It requires someone who understands the hundreds of lines of data in the gateway parameter file, where to look, go to various necessary spots and make specific changes to the dataset. Then using specialist tools like ODIS or VCP, update/flash the Gateway module. Make a mistake with the dataset, and u'll stuff up the entire car given how critical and central the Gateway module is. So for now, I'm simply happy to press 2 or so buttons to reactive the desired driving mode.

The dogbone pendulum arm does not need to be removed or dropped. Simply remove the single bolt, place dogbone insert, reinstall bolt and torque to spec. 140Nm + 90 degrees. U can see it with the car on ramps or on a hoist. It's not covered by the plastic undertray. I had mine up on ramps when I did mine. U need a breaker bar to undo the bolt. If the bolt is not sliding out easily after loosening it, or still tight, u might have to rock the engine block a little back or forward, depending on the angle of the car. The bolt will come loose. It's a long bolt. No need for any additional support.

Some dogbone inserts, like the polyurethane versions can introduce higher levels of noise vibration & harshness (NVH), especially when in Reverse. I didn't have any increase in NVH levels with the 034 Motorsport version, which is aluminium.

keep in mind there r two things here - Driving Profiles vs Drive Modes Driving Profiles (Eco, Comfort, Sport, Normal, Individual) are a group of various things that covers engine, suspension, ACC, steering, lighting etc. etc. Drive Modes (Eco, Normal, Sport) is engine gearbox only. Whilst the Driving Profile is remembered for the next time you start the car, the Drive Mode is not. It reverts to Normal. This is manufacturers emissions thing. For e.g. Driving Profile is Sport. Next time you start the car, even though Driving Profile is still in Sport, the Drive Mode has reverted to Normal. For e.g. Driving Profile is Eco. Next time you start the car, even though Driving Profile is still in Eco, the Drive Mode has reverted to Normal. For e.g. Driving Profile is Comfort. Next time you start the car, even though Driving Profile is still in Comfort, the Drive Mode has reverted to Normal. For e.g. Driving Profile is Individual. Next time you start the car, even though Driving Profile is still in Individual, the Drive Mode has reverted to Normal. that is at least the behaviour of MY17 pre-facelift models, which mine is - 220 Superb MY17.

- Reduced to no axle tramp - better engine response as the engine rocks less back n forth - crisper gear shifts because less engine rocking

@MartiniB - for the wing mirror cover with BSD retrofit, below is the how it was connected up, if anyone is interested.

mine is MY17 and mine uses Version 2. i have been using the 034 Motorsport Dogbone Lower Insert for many years now. excellent addition and no issues.

@Lutz_91 - i assumed the BSD indicators to be 12V, as per usual. Hence wiring in the Wing Mirror Cover BSD indicator caused no issues. no errors, or issues working. the original wing mirror BSD indicator is just as bright as it was before i added the additional wing mirror cap BSD indicator. the wiring is simple & straightforward. see pic below of how i connected it up. as for the wing mirror cap mounting clips - yes, that one in the middle is in a different location, hence the black trim piece, behind the mirror glass itself, doesn't clip onto it. however it doesn't matter as the the wing mirror cap is securely fastened on either sides, and around the back. there is no way the mirror cap is coming off, unless of course it gets smashed up in an accident.

235/45/19 tyres throws the speedo way off as it's much bigger with a 13% thicker sidewall. Have a look the tire size comparison calculator. The 245/40/19 profile will see a sidewall increase of 5%.

Correct.

Thanks. Didn't do it for styling - I mainly did it because I found the little tiny indicator on the wing mirror a bit small, and easy to miss. I wanted something more obvious - hence the fitting the version with the indicator on the wing mirror cover. I'm definitely not changing the mirror glass as my intention was to have both BSD indicators. The cost of a replacement wing mirror is nuts. No point spending money unnecessarily for no benefit. Having both indicators is good because the outside wing mirror one shows other drivers that they're in my blind spot. Then the additional indicator inside the wing mirror cover is so that I can see clearly. Win-win for both parties 🙂

Changed the wing mirror covers on my MY17 Superb to the facelift version, which has the BSD light on the cover. Got it from AliExpress. Good fit. Wasn't plug n play. Happy with the end result. More details about the installation here.

Second attempt was finally successful at giving Gandalf's wing mirror covers a "facelift".... literally. I swapped the wing mirror covers for ones that have the blind spot detection light on the side of the cover. Normally the BSD light is on the outer edge of the wing mirror. On the facelift Superb, the BSD in on inside edge of the wing mirror cover. The wiring harness had to b made as it wasn't plug n play. The new wiring harness takes the power from original factory loom, and splits it two ways - one for the mirror BSD light the other for the cover BSD light. Happy with the end result. Wasn't difficult, but i had to do things nice n slow, n careful so as to not break anything. Wing Mirror covers with BSD light was from AliExpress. Link here. The grey colour is not an exact match. I'll getting this either painted in gloss black or wrapped in black vinyl, soon. The first version I bought last year, from China, was the wrong size. Turns out the Chinese mk3 Superb uses a different wing mirror design altogether!! That was promptly returned. This one fits good and is good quality. Wiring plug/connectors were also from AliExpress. Link here. Some pics of the progress.... The covers side by side New wiring plug connectors, same as the factory connectors. I moved the factory BSD wiring loom from the front to the back of the frame. New wiring harnesses for the wing mirror BSD light... New wing mirror cover in place. There is just enough room for it to clear the frame. New wiring harness - taking power from the existing factory plug, and splitting it for the wing mirror cover BSD and the wing mirror BSD. Setup complete... A short video of it in action....

If it's not lowered u will have no issues. Mine was lowered and with spacers then - still no issues. Mine is now still lowered, but no spacers - no issues.

Many owners with the 19" wheels have switched to 245/40/19 tyres, including myself. It is more comfortable (thicker sidewall), wider, cheaper and more readily available. Speedo is also more accurate. This was when I had the original 19" rims, now I have aftermarket market rims, same tyres though.

I don't believe u can alter this stuff with VCDS. Max height electronically will b less than max height manually. It will b a safety thing, to protect the struts. Do u have a wagon or liftback?

unfortunately i haven't heard good things in the past about the Maxton foglight surrounds. usually poor fit (contour with the bumper) and/or no way to mount/stick them....the later being ur case. i bought mine 5 yrs ago from AliExpress - it came with 3M strips already mounted on the back of it, hence simply unpeel and stick on the bumper. fitment is on point and its still holding up strong, nor has it lost any gloss/shine.

i've been using the first gen AAWireless for almost 4 yrs now - its been flawless, no issues, no lag and so easy to use with my Columbus MIB2 (now MIB2.5 unit). i hear the second gen AAWireless doesn't add any new benefits unless u want easier switching between users/phones. hence i'll continue using my current one.