JR RS

+1 I had exactly that, very very slow leak, and found evidence underneath the car, which confirmed where the coolant was leaking from.

MY16 doesn't have Manoeuvre Assist which stops (in case of emergency) the car during slow parking manoeuvres. Even my MY17 doesn't have it. Just the usual PDC 3.0 that gives u audio & visual feedback. No braking. Manoeuvre Assist was introduced from MY18 onwards.

Thanks. Had to make it look OEM, but with a plus 😊 Will take some night pics in the next day or two.

Gandalf's latest "project" is complete....Front Grille DRL light bar. Towards the end of last year Skoda released the new Kodiaq which has the front grille light stripe - I saw that and I decided that's my new project. The new mk4 Kodiaq... Been planning this since last year. I'm happy with how it's turned out. The light bar is connected to and controlled by the BCM, so it dims and brightens like the factory DRL, with the same coding. I used an empty lighting channel, Leuchte8F LB39. The front grille has an opening that is perfectly in line with the headlight's DRL - so perfect alignment for the light bar. The light bar I made myself, using an LED strip, a plastic holder, and a light diffuser. Fingers crossed that the light bar hold up against the elements. The light bar I made... Test fitting the clips to hold the light bar behind the grille. Mounted and wiring routed on the bumper to use the same path as the factory PDC and headlight washer wiring. Wiring from BCM was routed through the firewall, into the engine bay, they down to the factory wiring harness for the PDC and headlight washer.

Gandalf's latest "project" is complete....Front Grille DRL light bar. Towards the end of last year Skoda released the new Kodiaq which has the front grille light stripe - I saw that and I decided that's my new project. The new mk4 Kodiaq... Been planning this since last year. I'm happy with how it's turned out. The light bar is connected to and controlled by the BCM, so it dims and brightens like the factory DRL, with the same coding. I used an empty lighting channel, Leuchte8F LB39. The front grille has an opening that is perfectly in line with the headlight's DRL - so perfect alignment for the light bar. The light bar I made myself, using an LED strip, a plastic holder, and a light diffuser. Fingers crossed that the light bar hold up against the elements. The light bar I made... Test fitting the clips to hold the light bar behind the grille. Mounted and wiring routed on the bumper to use the same path as the factory PDC and headlight washer wiring. Wiring from BCM was routed through the firewall, into the engine bay, they down to the factory wiring harness for the PDC and headlight washer.

Suspension needs to b in the "loaded" position when u change the endlinks. Not raised or extended. That's when the endlinks and swaybars have the least tension.

There isn't much significant improvements from mk3 to mk3.5 - from wat I've read over the years, No. The mk3.5 has issues with the infotainment (MIB3), a bit of cost cutting (no boot torch, less umbrellas, no premium audio), failing boot struts, just to name a few. Having said that, the new LED headlights and the new steering wheel r nice. The rest is the same - body panels, interior, mechanical bits.

I have the virtual pedal in mine, MY17, and it's not trigger happy like urs. Sounds like ur virtual pedal sensors r misaligned. There r two parallel wire sensors that run the entire width of the rear diffuser, between the exhaust. See "virtual" red lines in the pic below. One is along the edge/outside facing, whilst the other is on the inside, facing the spare tyre wheel well. Ur foot needs to go across both sensors, outside to inside, then back, to trigger it. Unfortunately the only way to access or visually inspect the sensor is by removing the lower rear diffuser....the black bit, as it's mounted on the inside of the diffuser. Then again, given urs is MY23, i.e. the facelift Superb - they might've changed the virtual pedal setup g made it worse, like they've done with many other things on the facelift!!

The mk4 uses a completely different parcel shelf design compared to the mk3 (pre-facelift) and mk3.5 (facelift). It doesn't bend in the middle to fold. The image on the Parkers website is a mk3.5

Interesting. That's a facelift Superb - must've been introduced then. The pre-facelift doesn't have it, nor the clips on parcel shelf.

That's incorrect - aftermarket springs do NOT require DCC to b turned off! They're just trying to scare u. Plenty have used lowering springs with their factory DCC shocks with no issues, provided ur springs don't lower the car by more than 35-40mm. A DCC Recalibration procedure is highly recommended once the lowering springs have settled. H&R or Eibachs r the popular tried n tested choice. I myself have been running Eibach Pro-kit springs for almost 5 yrs now. I have DCC, so the drop was only 20mm. Been no issues whatsoever, both DCC and springs, or any of the connected systems such as steering, lighting and braking. This is mine, before I changed the wheels.

I've never seen such an option or accessory for the mk3 Superb.

I'm guessing u haven't read the very discussion u've just posted in!?!? Numerous posts in this discussion have mentioned about the hardware, power, canbus and coding components. This discussion topic is about how direct TPMS was retrofitted to a mk3 Superb. Yet u ask if anyone has done it, and if there r any details!! 🤦‍♂️

Mine had reflectors on the rear doors as well - I did the wiring so I could put actual door lights, like the front. U can read about the discussion I wrote many years ago here.

my Superb MY17 hatch has full covers on both sides. the left side has a canton sub-woofer sitting in there. the right side has a big storage area where i keep all the boot nets, first aid kit and a toolkit.

have u tried reading the manual, or google?

Being new pads & discs, the bite is slightly better, as expected, but otherwise feels like OEM+ It's only been 2 weeks, but no signs of brake dust yet.

It depends where u live and how u drive. My previous car, mk2 Octavia RS, the factory pads & discs lasted 86k kms before I had to change them. My Superb's factory rear brakes outlasted the front brakes - they still had 5.5mm left after 90k kms, whilst the front was down to 2mm. Both r still in good condition, no rust at all, or falling apart. Because of the low fronts, I changed both front and rear with DBA pads & discs.

battery life nowadays is 3-4 yrs, sadly, especially the start-stop batteries. electric gremlins start showing up and u get weird stuff happening. given urs is 2020 with factory original battery - sounds like it. however i've not come across the "static fault of NV energy management alarm" that ur experiencing. is urs an iV?

Personally I prefer OBDEleven over VCDS. I used VCDS before I got my OBDEleven a couple of years ago. VCDS is lot more expensive, requires a laptop with software and cable, or u can buy the even more expensive wireless version (laptop/mobile + adaptor), it is limited to 3 cars, or u can pay a lot more for 10 or unlimited cars. U can scan all modules, view (in detail) and clear codes, one module at a time. OBDEleven is cheaper, and requires a mobile phone + wireless adaptor. It doesn't have a limit on how many cars u can connect. U can scan all modules, view (in detail) and clear codes. I have the Pro Lifetime version. Since then they have changed it to b a yearly payment. I never use the One Click Apps (which requires credits) as u have no idea wat changes r made the scenes, and can mess things badly if u end up with unwanted side effects. However in terms of exporting adaptation maps (admaps), I prefer VCDS outputs as it's way more readable and easier to find stuff.

Agreed, prices r ridon-culous of new cars now!! Can't get the performance, value and practicality of a Superb for the price I paid many years ago. Gandalf has now ticked over 7 yrs.....and I don't have any plans to replace it any time so soon 😁

Mudflaps between pre-facelift and facelift "should" b the same as the body panels down there haven't changed. But then again, manufacturers like to play games n change things up to mess with us.

90k kms later, Gandalf's factory brakes were starting to run low, so I decided to change all 4 corners for DBA Rotors and Pads. Front - DBA2806S slotted rotors + DB2384SP Performance pads. Rear - DBA2837E plain rotors + DB2384SS pads.

Gandalf got new brake pads & rotors fitted today....after 90k kms, the factory original brakes, front specifically, were getting low. Rears still had another 5.5mm left. Decided to change all 4 corners for DBA Rotors and Pads. Front - DBA2806S slotted rotors + DB2384SP Performance pads. Rear - DBA2837E plain rotors + DB2384SS pads.

@Tankdave - those look nice, especially in Bronze. Wat size specs r the rims?