sepulchrave

Just replace the spark plugs with Iridium plugs if they haven't already been done. Other than that you're golden.

As long as they're not for the quattro variant they'll fit, 4wd and 2wd brakes are different.

Yes.

The inside of your engine does not need cleaning, modern oils contain an additive pack that keeps the engine internally clean. Petrol engines do not suffer the blowby that diesels do so the oil stays cleaner for longer anyway. Snake oil companies need to keep selling their snake oil or they go out of business. I don't know of ANY additive that is not included in modern oil additive packs, any additive that gives an oil a testable advantage no matter how small is already included. Even fuel additives are no longer really useful since the advent of direct injection, you can't clean the inlet tract if the fuel is being injected directly into the cylinder and the cylinder is self cleaning like a pyrolytic oven. This obsession with hidden cleanliness is how this guff is sold, shonky old American V8's may still get grubby but as stated regular oil and filter changes are really all that's needed.

If you're going to all that trouble you might as well change the chain and sprockets as well. Seems excessive for a slight rattle that might not even be the chain...

Yes, that's magical snake oil, please don't use it, it probably doesn't do any harm but the manufacturer doesn't recommend it and neither do I.

Yeah, so please ignore magical snake oil claims, particularly from the US, he'll be getting paid for the exposure.

Standard turbo and map will run out of puff much past 3000 rpm, remap will sort it.

Radweld is horrible gunge, I'm not guaranteeing anything because I'd never use it myself but dishwasher cream is an extremely strong non-foaming detergent which worked well for removing oil emulsion, took a few goes to get the system properly clean though.

I use dishwasher cream rather than a tablet to clean oil emulsion from the cooling system after repairing a blown head gasket, particularly on wet liner (French) engines which get really gunked up with brown sludge.

Do you have different size tyres fitted?

More importantly a car is a tool for getting you from one place to another quicker than you can walk, no-one else cares what it looks like as you flash past them.

Ok, it sounds like the injector seal is leaking, and that it's not steam, it's unburnt fuel/air mixture.

Where was the steam coming from when you opened the bonnet?

Just drill the screw head, then knock the drum off. You're making it much harder than it really is.

You simply have to pull the switch out, once fitted, until it makes contact with the brake pedal, it's a telescopic ratchet mechanism. Not really a 'procedure' per se, more a question of adjustment after fitting.

It usually occurs in engines where the stretch bolts are too weak or not tightened properly, the old PD130 is a very good example, head lift is an extremely common occurence with them when they're driven enthusiastically. Edit: If your car is a petrol turbo then it can't be head lift, your head must be cracked.

Probably, it will save time faffing about.

I just replied to you in another thread, please can you start a new thread and we can draw all this together instead of splattering it across a bunch of threads.

Classic head lift, you need to redo the HG with new bolts. Alternatively the head was not pressure tested when it was skimmed and it's cracked.

If you seek certainty then good luck with that, I live in a probabilistic universe.

It's fifty quid and it'll take ten minutes, I'm not sure how you value time but I dislike wasting mine, especially at MOT time.

You can buy NGK, Beru, Denso parts as well as Bosch, Delphi etc. Expect to pay about £55, any more is excessive. There are many, these are generic parts with custom wiring and plugs for the specific application.

You obviously haven't had to remove a lambda probe that's welded itself into the exhaust system before. Snip the wire, use a deep 22mm impact socket on a long bar and replace the sensor, tightening it into place with a ring spanner or a split socket. You can't successfully clean the old one because the heater element has usually failed rendering the old probe useless.

Replace the sensor, then clear all the codes and go for an hours drive.