sepulchrave

Yes, it's nonsense.

https://bencrossmotors.co.uk/ http://The VAG Doctor 016977 3115 https://g.co/kgs/wRgFA15 There's a couple nearby worth trying.

It's not a grand to get eight exhaust valves replaced, with gaskets and bolts, it just isn't.

That's a crazy quote, find an independent VW specialist and get a second opinion.

When you say "a lot of money" do you mean it's north of a grand?

Au contraire, the seals reduce the amount of water entering the door but cannot keep it all out so it runs down the the sloping side impact beam and out of the drain hole onto the sill.

I'd want compression readings before making any decisions. Post back with numbers for all four cylinders.

I'll alert the media...

Get a second opinion, preferably from an independent VW specialist, your mechanic may be barking up the wrong tree.

What do you mean "gone", are the big ends knocking, has it seized or is it smoking like a chimney?

Ok, is it a proper rattle gun or a Fisher Price looky-likey? Also, are you trying to hold the wheel or letting the steering lock do its job? Use a tube to extend the breaker bar and use maximum effort.

Yes of course, it's a normal R/H thread.

Relax, the airbag can't go off without an electrical signal so if you disco the battery it's perfectly safe.

Just get some electrically conductive adhesive and stick it back on.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16855/P0471/001137 If the leaking oil seal were on the cold side of the turbo then you'd have oily pipes, oily intercooler internals and a damaged impeller. Remove the TIP and grab the impeller nut, excess endfloat or movement side to side means the impeller is damaged and you need a new CHRA cartridge or a complete turbo.

Yes, no MAF sensor. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16556/P0172/000370 Work your way through that list, reset it and see if it comes back.

It's the stalk, replace it.

With no evidence of a boost leak I'm starting to suspect the turbo itself...

You can't buy the old piston rings that gave all the trouble so it'll have been upgraded to the latest spec. if it's had a rebuild using new parts, CTHE is not a different engine to the CAVE it just has a few revisions to address the problems.

I wouldn't use a secondhand engine in this particular application, the rebuilt engine should have a decent warranty on it if it's been done right and you don't need another ECU since you're fitting a new core with the original ancillaries.

It'll be worn but if the joint is not popping off you need to look elsewhere for the problem.

It really isn't critical on an engine like yours, brand and design really don't matter at all, just buy whatever is cheapest and in stock at your local ECP or GSF, all the recommended plugs will be a "7" which is the important bit.

Yes, get a new clip, order a Mikalor clip in the correct size. It was the 200 mile drive wot done it. Fix the leak, then you can worry about getting the DPF clean again.

There are only two and they're both large, often there is a rigid plastic pipe connected to the plenum and the turbo and shorter Flexis connecting them to the intercooler.

Those are fuel lines, not oil and the repairs you have done are not suitable for fuel pipes, you need professional help I'm afraid.